KDRP487MSS03 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Something Kitchen Aid wont tell you but running a self clean on this model stove blows the fuse located on the back of the stove.

First I slid the stove out and removed the back of the stove held in place by 8 Phillips screws. The thermostat fuse is located near the top middle on the back of the stove. Remove the 2 screws holding it in place. Disconnect the wires, plug in the new part. Put it all back together. Job done in less than 30 minutes.

This repair would have cost $164 through A&E factory service.

My wife used the self cleaning function for the first time after 1.5 years of owning, of course out of warranty. A quick google search identified the problem. Called Kitchenaid, they said of course it can't be that simple, they had never heard of this problem, need to schedule a service call. Googled and found this site, Ordered the part, came in, only took a screwdriver and about 20 minutes, just like all the other posts.

shame on Kitchenaid for not owning up to the problem. I even e-mailed them all the links, they did not acknowledge them.

There are two lights in this model oven. The glass will open by pulling outward on the near end. Since these are halogen bulbs I used a clean cloth to hold the bulb while replacing. Bulbs are expensive especially when purchased from Kitchen Aid dealer. I got two bulbs from PartsSelect delivered in two days for considerably less.

My husband did the repair and said it was very easy to do with the following instructions that I got from the Fix Ya website.

This is a design flaw in the Kitchenaid convection ovens. I can help fix this problem if you have a built in oven (I don't know if the parts are located in the same place for stand alone ovens). First it is not a FUSE that has blown rather it is the thermostat in the rear of the oven. (Part #4452223) This small part cost about $37 US and after shipping it will cost you about $47. I tried to get an estimate from an electrician as to what of frustration I decided to tackle the problem mthey would charge for the part and to come out and fix the oven an the price was about $90 for the part and anywhere between $100 and $170 more for the service call + repair! After a day myself.

The very first thing you must do is shut off the circuit breaker to the oven and put a very large sign on the panel that reads DO NOT TOUCH! That is 220 volts to that oven and while most panels have just the oven ont circuit you dont want anyone reactivating that circuit by mistake!

The next part requires a little work. Find the side panel screws (usually located in the oven door) and remove the two panel flanges that cover the 2 or 4 mounting screws that keep the oven in the wall. Now go underneath the oven and find the power junction box, take off the cover and disconnect the wires that run from the oven. Remember which goes where. Next remove the little nut that holds the electical conduit cable to the junction box then loosen the wires. Once this is done you can now slide the oven out and get to the thermostat.

This part requires a little elbow grease. Find a platform or table that fits just under where the stove will slide out and slide the oven on top of the table or whatever for support. In the back of the oven there will be a sheet metal panel that covers the thermostat and other wires, remove the 5 or 6 screws that hold this panel on and put the panel aside. Almost in the middle of the oven's back you will see a little black device with two wires running out of it (one red the other white or yellow). It will have the part number on its front, remove the wire and notice that the thermostat is half red and half white (remember this for the new part will have the same markings) the red wire goes onto the lead coming from the red markings. When you have the new part simply put the new one in (remember: the red side to the red wire), attach it to the back of the oven, replace the sheet metal cover and slide the oven back into place securing it with the screws. Viola! you are done! Turn on the power and then test the oven (I used the broil setting to warm it up then switch to a temperature setting). The entire process took me about an hour and I am NOT a handyman!

I removed all the screws attaching the inner liner to the door, then removed the broken glass. I did this before ordering the replacement glass so I could be sure that only one piece was broken -- the door contains four pieces of glass in all. After the replacement glass arrived (really fast delivery!), I cleaned all the parts and reassembled the door. I had some difficulty in aligning the screw holes properly, and I'm still not sure if I have the exterior sheet of glass positioned correctly -- the schematic shows the order in which the parts go together but not how they fit exactly. I should have inspected the door more closely before I took it apart. Anyway, it feels solid and everything seems to work.

Removed a screw and clip to remove the lens and replaced bulb. Then replaced clip and screw. Done.

First, I removed the grill from the top of the microwave by removing 3 screws and then by sliding it out. It was a bit tricky, but you have to rotate it under so the grill comes out from behind the display.
Next, I removed the bottom grill by removing 4 screws. This one removed easily. Then, I removed 2 more screws that were under the bottom grill and was able to start sliding out the microwave unit.
I was only able to pull the microwave half way out because some wires were stopping me from pulling it out more. I removed the big square piece of insulation and had enough room to get to the light assembly.
I removed the retaining clips by pushing the right side of the clips to the little opening in the middle on the right hand side. Then I was able to remove the light bulb and replace with the new one.

Don't, Don't, Don't!!!!!!! call a repair man to replace the thermo fuse. If you are able to use the T.V. remote and crack a twist top off a cold beer, then you can DO this. I am 47 years old and half retarded and my 84 year old neighbor and I completed this task in 12 minutes. Turn off the breaker panel, pull the oven out, (it is hard wired). We placed it on a 4 wheeled dolly. Unscrew 11 screws, pop the panel. The fusee is at the top/center with two screws holding it. Pull the two wires off, screw it back in place. Put back the panel & 11 screws. Put the oven back in place. Turn on the breaker and you are done. PS Tell your wife or girl friend this might take an hour or so. Send her to the store for a six pack & steak.

Take door off completely by setting hinge locks into place and then removing door. Take all of the screws out from frame (remember that the flat screws go the outside and the raised heads on the inside of door)Remove the clips on the bottom of door as well. Carefully remove frame. Then remove the inner glass clips, this will allow you to remove the broke or cracked glass easily and install the new glass. Set the door on a soft towel with finish side down. Make sure your hinges are on the proper sides if you moved them. (you will see where the screw hole matches up with the bottom of the frame. Do everything in reverse to put back together. Good Luck

It was relatively "easy" at age 74. Needed phillips screwdriver and needle nose pliers (not nut driver). Put 2 binder clips on connection wires so they would not fall back behind oven. Figure I saved about $100-$200 for less than 30 minutes work.

My husband and I replaced the igniter module, following directions we found online. We removed the old one, replaced it with the new one, and thankfully everything is working great!

Used flat tip screw driver to pry front clip holding glass cover out of position. Pulled out dead bulb and pushed in new one. Slid clip back on glass cover and slid back into place. Simple. .

I went online and discovered the repair method and schematic of the range. I removed the spark module after first removing the upper rear panel cover and replaced with the new part module ordered from your company and now the spark module operates all the gas elements when they are turned on thus lighting the gas burners. My mother in law was thrilled, as she had been using matches and burning her finger tips,since the original range part malfunctioned. The only problem was the small screw from the original installation was not long enough , so it required some changes to get it affixed to the cabinet side.Thanks for the reasonable price and the right part for the job!!

Very simple. I removed two screws holding the oven in place. Slid oven out onto the kitchen floor - it doesn't really weigh that much. I then removed about a dozen screws holding the back panel in place. I removed the back panel, disconnected the thermostat by unscrewing a single screw and pulled the defective part from the connectors. I then installed the new thermostat, screwed the back panel back on, slid the oven back into place and re-secured with the two screws. Voila! Repair done. The whole procedure took about 15 minutes and was not difficult at all.

Getting at the part was difficult. The top and both side panels had to be removed to reach the blower. Once they were off, it was fairly easy to swap out the blower. The repair guy wanted $140 for the part and $160 to insall. I did it myself for $94! If you do it yourself, keep a good record of what screws came from where as you go. This makes re-assembly much easier.