KDRP463LSS08 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Used flat tip screw driver to pry front clip holding glass cover out of position. Pulled out dead bulb and pushed in new one. Slid clip back on glass cover and slid back into place. Simple. .

This is a known defect with KitchenAid ovens. If your range is out of warranty, KitchenAid will do nothing to help. (They should really issue a recall). I figured out through research that the part is the thermostat fuse, so instead of paying a repair company to come to the house, diagnose the problem and do the repair, I ordered the part on PartSelect.com. I probably saved myself $200. My husband did the repair and said it was really easy. It took him 10 - 15 minutes. He took a picture of the back of the oven with the back panel off, showing where the part is located, but looks like I'm not able upload images. All you need is to be able to pull your range out to get to the back of it and a screwdriver to remove some screws and replace the thermostat. Once the part was replaced, the control panel came back on, the oven unlocked and is now working again!! I will not use Self-Clean again - that is for sure!

The thermostat blew during the oven self-cleaning cycle (apparently it's a common problem). Take off a few panels in the back of the range with a screw driver. Pull the terminals off the existing thermostat and (safely) touch them to make sure it's not some other problem. If the oven comes back to life order this part. Unscrew the blown thermostat and attach the new, plug the terminals and re-attach the back panels.

I went online and discovered the repair method and schematic of the range. I removed the spark module after first removing the upper rear panel cover and replaced with the new part module ordered from your company and now the spark module operates all the gas elements when they are turned on thus lighting the gas burners. My mother in law was thrilled, as she had been using matches and burning her finger tips,since the original range part malfunctioned. The only problem was the small screw from the original installation was not long enough , so it required some changes to get it affixed to the cabinet side.Thanks for the reasonable price and the right part for the job!!

Kept removing screws and pulled things out until I got to the inner glass.
Yep, clueless and never did this before.
Put everything back in the opposite order of taking it out. Wala it's fixed.
Repair people wanted over $300 for parts and labor. However, with Partselect I was able to fix it for under $50.00 Well worth it!
Carmen

The inner glass on the wall oven shattered (apparently a common problem). Rather than look at a new $2-3,000 oven, I found the part for around $30. The repair was actually fairly easy, just had to be careful with the glass panes.
I did not remove the door completely, just worked on it either open or closed, depending on the step. First I loosened the two screws on the bottom of the door (when closed). Then I removed the four screws on the inside of the door and the two on the top part of the door (2). This allowed the outer panel to slide out and be removed.
Then there are two middle panes, held on by small clips with two screws in each. Remove one at a time, being careful not to drop any of the glass on the floor! Remember the order of the glass and the clips, so you can replace in the same order. (Now's a good time to clean all of the inner panes also, and to vacuum out the interior of the door.)
Lay these panes aside, and you should be to the broken inner pane, held on by a metal panel--again remove a couple screws, the panel, and remove all the broken glass. Be careful to retain all the insulation around the glass, and replace the glass, then the metal panel, the inner panes, and the outer door panel in that order. The outer panel should slide into place if you remove one clip and screw and start on one side, then replace the clip.

after reading tips on your site I just removed 1/2 dozen or so screws
took off back cover, part was right in the open, 2 more screws unplugged/replugged part, it worked! couldn't have been easier.

Getting at the part was difficult. The top and both side panels had to be removed to reach the blower. Once they were off, it was fairly easy to swap out the blower. The repair guy wanted $140 for the part and $160 to insall. I did it myself for $94! If you do it yourself, keep a good record of what screws came from where as you go. This makes re-assembly much easier.

Removed back upper cover, unscrewed retaining screw from module. As noted in a comment from another do-it-yourselfer, I replaced screw with a longer one and reinstalled module. Note that the replacement part is not exactly the same as the old one(the wires are located differently), I noted the wire color codes with the slot number and reinstalled them in the same slot number. Works fine.

We replaced the part. It was pretty quick and easy to install.

Replaced oven temp sensor, removed oven door and interior racks for easy access to oven upper rear sensor access. Used philips head screw driver to remove both screws, gently pulled old senor out of reat oven wall until electrical connector clear of rear wall, disconnected connector, connected new sensor and gently pushed wiring and connector back into opening, reinstalled door and racks. Ran open thru cycle and used oven thermometer to check temp. fast easy install

Removed 4 screws top and bottom of the outer door panel. Remove outer door, then the two inner panes of glass. You are then able to remove the broken inner glass. Carefully slide the new inner glass into place, being careful not to tear the insulation. Once new inner glass is in place carefully replace the two inner glass panes and secure the screws. Replace the outer door and the top and bottom screws and that's it!

The exact part for this oven is no longer available. I purchased one hat was close in size, but larger than the original. Upper and lower brackets hold the glass in place, so length was not a problem but height was. I removed the upper brackets, re-shaped them with the vise, a hammer and metal shears. The glass would now sit inside the bracket where the screws also went. I had to be quite careful the screws did not shatter the new glass.

The hardest part was aligning the 4 holes for the top brackets. Since 2 holes were on one piece of the door, and 2 were on the other (holding the glass sandwiched between) precision was critical. Also the screw length was critical because the glass now sat in a area where it could come in contact with the screws. (I know - pictures would be most helpful, and I didn't take any.)

Using tape and lots of patience, I got the holes aligned. I covered the old holes inside the oven door with spare screws. I filed down the points of the sheet metal screws so that, if they contacted the glass, they would not be pointed.

Once everything was reassembled, I turned the oven on high for about 1/2 hour to ensure the heated metal and glass all played nicely together. We've had no problems in the month since the repair.

Removed the 6 screws securing the door and inner frame unit. Lifted off the frame and inner glass unit. Then, after cleaning all the broken glass, put the new glass in; first reattaching the inner frame and then the outer door cover.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.