KDRP407HSS3 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Thanks to those who replied to my intitial distress call...because of them I had the courage to attempt the repair.
First I flipped the main electrica breaker.
then I removed the screws from the main door. The next step was to pop out the pins holding the hinges. I couldn't do that no mater how much WD-40 and lubricant I used, or how hard I tapped center mass.....SO I took all the OTHER components out staring with the side facings. (1 screw right left and 2 for bottom.)
Next I took the screws holding the door together out -- then the two screws holding the clamps on the bottom of the door. At this point I lifted off the the front facing of the door by the handle and placed it with its glass, to the side.

I then had access to the two inside panes of glass. They are secured with a metal plate screwed into the metal of the inner door. When I removed the two screws securing the plate, two plates dropped to the floor and it was fortunate I was holding the glas securly as it two would have dropped.
Next, I cleaned each of tpieces of glass with oven cleaner and set them carefuly to the side.(they were crusted with brown) Lastly I wiggled the broken glass out of the small inner window, working from both the inside and the outside of the window. Becuase I couldn't open out the door.. this was an extrememly time consuming activity..but do-able.

Once the inner glass was in screwed one of the screws o the clamp plate so I could rest the glass while screwing in the second screw. Once screw two was in place I took out the retaining screw and replaceed in with the glass clamped between. Aftern that the tough stuff was done and I just reassmebled all the door parts.

This SHOULD have been much simplier! IF I could have removed the hinge pins as directed.

Anyway, mission acomplished. Oven works fine.
Thanks!

Problem : One of the door latch center spindle locking clips had sheared off when the door was slamed shut. The latch then lifts up causing the light switch stay on and latch to stay engaged.
Repair: REMOVE POWER TO STOVE
1/ To open the door slide your fingers or a bent tool right to left to slide the latch to open the door.
2/ Go to the bottom of the open door on both sides and remove the screws. Then lift the plastic covering strips away.
3/ Remove the screws on both outsides at the top of the removed tracks
4/ Now you can lift the front panel with the clock up and off.
5/ Remove the 3 plugs on the back of that panel .
6/ Remove the 2 screws just above the latch.
7/ Remove the latch assemby.

Reverse order to install new latch & door.

I removed eight screws to disassemble the oven door. I removed the old insulation and the brackets that held class panel in place. I installed the new insulation, tempered glass and reassembled the oven door.

Replacement of the thermal overload safety thermostat very straight forward after sliding unit out, killing power and removing two covers. Tested both old and new and both show continuity (= good). Installed new, restored power and tested for proper operation. Didn't happen. Replaced original and now have new as spare. Now suspect the double line break relay on electronic control board is failed and source of problem. It is common to both elements and immediate before the suspected thermostat in circuit.

Used flat tip screw driver to pry front clip holding glass cover out of position. Pulled out dead bulb and pushed in new one. Slid clip back on glass cover and slid back into place. Simple. .

The repair was pretty simple. I removed the old door front from the oven door, there were only 4 screws to remove. I then removed the handle off the old door and placed it onto the new door front. Finally, I placed the new door front over the oven door lining up the srew holes and screwed them in. I would recommend attaching the bottom plates first to make sure the oven door front and oven door are flush at the bottom.

Removed the oven door from the oven using the KitchenAid supplied tool to hold the spring in position. There was a hole at the bottom of the hinge and if you insert this KA tool it would keep the hinge from closing completely which allowed you to pull the door away from the oven. Removed the 4 screws that held the front (glass cover) from inside part of the oven door.
Used the pliers to pull the hinge back to remove the KA tool and then unscrewed the 2 screws holding the hinge in place. Did the same on the other side. Installed the hinge into place and re-installed the glass front of the oven door. Place the oven door into the oven and when you open the door completely (down) the 2 holding pins are removed - similar to the KA tool.

Took about 30 minutes from start to finish. Used the parts list (found online) to see what screws I had to unscrew.

Searched online found PartSelect had good price, confirmed over the phone that the hinges were not a set (needed 2). Completed order online and part delivered in 2 days. Have used PartSelect twice for me oven. The Kitchenaid oven is another story - horrible - thank goodness for PartSelect.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Kept removing screws and pulled things out until I got to the inner glass.
Yep, clueless and never did this before.
Put everything back in the opposite order of taking it out. Wala it's fixed.
Repair people wanted over $300 for parts and labor. However, with Partselect I was able to fix it for under $50.00 Well worth it!
Carmen

The inner glass on the wall oven shattered (apparently a common problem). Rather than look at a new $2-3,000 oven, I found the part for around $30. The repair was actually fairly easy, just had to be careful with the glass panes.
I did not remove the door completely, just worked on it either open or closed, depending on the step. First I loosened the two screws on the bottom of the door (when closed). Then I removed the four screws on the inside of the door and the two on the top part of the door (2). This allowed the outer panel to slide out and be removed.
Then there are two middle panes, held on by small clips with two screws in each. Remove one at a time, being careful not to drop any of the glass on the floor! Remember the order of the glass and the clips, so you can replace in the same order. (Now's a good time to clean all of the inner panes also, and to vacuum out the interior of the door.)
Lay these panes aside, and you should be to the broken inner pane, held on by a metal panel--again remove a couple screws, the panel, and remove all the broken glass. Be careful to retain all the insulation around the glass, and replace the glass, then the metal panel, the inner panes, and the outer door panel in that order. The outer panel should slide into place if you remove one clip and screw and start on one side, then replace the clip.

This is a drop in range so I had to remove the range and set on a dolly. Turn the dolly around and acess the THRMST-FIX that needed replaceing, it was open. put the range back in its place and could still use the rest of stove until I received the parts 2 days later .
Pulled the range out put the new THRMST-FIX in put the range back together and put the range back in place and it has worked ever since.
GOOD JOB

My electric oven is a built-in. First I turned off power to the oven.

Then, I removed the oven door as instructed by Kitchenaid, next I removed the screws that held the concealing-sleeves on each side of the oven opening. Slid down the sleeves, loosened the exposed screws on each to allow the oven to slide out. Slid the oven out abut half way to expose the top. Removed the metal sheeting from top of oven to expose area where door latch assembly was secured. Removing the sheeting was made easier by removing the screws on each side of the control panel and lifting the panel out of the way.

The latch assembly is held in place by two screws through the front of the plastic venting. Identified the connections to appropriate points before I removed the wiring, removed wiring and attached to points on the new latch assembly.

Secured latch assembly to plastic vent, secured sheeting to top of oven, placed conrol panel back in place, pushed oven back and secured with screws.
Slid sleeves into position, secured with screws and replaced oven door.

Open oven dooor. With a philip screw driver remove the gasket plate at the bottom of the oven holding the seal gasket. pull seal gasket away from oven seal channel and clean surface before installing new seal. align seal pins to to seal channel holes be sure not to twist the seal insert pins in one at a time.Install lower bracket however you may want to wet the fray ends of the seal gasket prior to screwing in plate to keep the ends from moving away from the bracket when scrwing it in place.

Removed four trim pieces; removed four wood screws holding oven in cabinet housing; slid oven out (weighs about 150 lbs and takes two people and a bench to rest oven on. Oven will pull all the way out but not much further because of the electric cord.); Removed back sheet metal cover (bunch of small metal screws); removed wires from bad unit, unscrewed the bad unit and screwed in the replacement unit.

Unlock door hinge locks. Rmv door from oven by orienting to a 45 degree angle and slightly lifting up and out. Rmv outer Stainless Steel panel from oven door that has the broken glass. Rmv handle. Install new handle on outer door panel but don't over tighten. Place panel on oven door and install screws. When reinstalling door back on oven try to orient door at a 45 degree angle sliding in till you feel a slight bump. Try but don't force the door to the full open position and slide door latch locks back in place. Check the Kitchen-Aid website for better door rmv and install instructions.