KDDT207BWH0 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover

Turned off the gas then disconnected the gas line. Unplugged the AC cord and removed the unit from the counter top. Had to locate a suitable area to lay the cooktop, rather large. The bottom cover is held on by 6-8 sheet metal screws, however, the gas regulator and nipple must be removed also for the cover to come off. I removed the Igniter module screws, leaving the wires connected and mounted the new module in it's place. I then removed one wire at a time from the old and put it on the new part. Replaced the back cover and reinstalled the gas regulator with fresh pipe sealant. Probably took an hour including cleaning the top and counter top.

I first removed the two screws (located on the inner side of the door about halfway from the top) which hold the hinges to the door. With the screws removed, I was able to remove the entire door by grasping the door on each side and puling up and sliding the door away from the hinges.

The rest involves deconstructing the door by removing the screws and layers of metal liner layers and frames until you reach the inner glass.

You're likely to get anxious about remembering where all the screws go when reassembling, but if you lay out the screws in the same orientation they were in prior to disassembly, you should be fine.

Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

I used a screwdriver to pry the electrode assy. out of the burner. then disconnected the wire.
Then just connected the new electrode and place the assy, in the burner.

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

I read several posts of this glass door replacement before ordering and was a little hesitant, but after looking at my stove door broken for a number of years I decided to make a move. I searched the site found item # PS337162 and ordered it. The posts didn't sound too complicated. The glass arrived in two days, the repair went amazingly fast 20 min max. The following worked well for us:

1) Removed screws from around door bottom, top and sides. DID NOT REMOVE SCREWS MIDWAY UP ON INSIDE OF THE DOOR, HOLDS THE SPRING LATCHES.

2) Removing the door is not necessary once the screws are out, the outside panel comes loose from the interior. Propped the exterior part of the door up to meet the top of the drawer on the bottom of the stove, the natural position of the door as if it were opened during normal cooking.

3) Once the exterior part is off, the interior is exposed, removed the screws which held # 4 glass along with brace in place (4 screws hexagon screws) before being able to remove the full size interior panel which holds the # 7 glass in place.

4) After removing the #4 glass, etc. the inner most part is exposed, the interior full size panel needs to be removed, took 4 screws (hexagon) loose and the panel pulled a loose freely.

5) When removing this panel be careful, the #7 glass drops freely once the panel is pulled back, there is also exposed insulation. Remove the exterior #7 glass and then pull the aluminum 1" spacer out to reach the inner most piece of #7 glass (this is the one I needed to replace) exposed inside oven. The cork seal appeared to be in good condition and did not need to be replaced.

6) Clean glass, and reassembled. Sounds like a lot but it is not, never removed the door from the hinges and replacement went very quickly. I wish I would have done this years ago.

I have had this stove since July 1994 and its been great, I have had no problems except the glass of which had nothing to do with the mfg.

First I removed the oven door from the unit by removing the screws that are located approximately 6 inches from the bottom of the door. After the screws have been removed be aware and take caution when you pull the door up and away from the unit. The hinges are spring loaded and can casue injury. Once the door has been removed from the unit place it front side down on a soft rug or cloth to avoid any scatching. Remove the two philips head screws from the top of the door and the two philips head screws from the bottom of the door. carefully separate the interior steel panel from the exterior panel. Once the panels are separated you will see the first pane of glass. Remove the four nutscrews that hold it in place. Behind this pane of glass you will find the xterior pane of glass. remove it and install the new piece. Be sure to clean the glass before you install it. Replace the parts in reverse order and soon you will be cooking again.

Disconnected gas & electric connections; lifted unit out of countertop onto padded table upside down. Unscrewed ~16 sheet metal screws for access. Removed bad ignitor by driving off retaining clip. Had to remove burner (3 screws) for access to install retaining clip on new ignitor. Reassembled, reinstalled. Works like new!

All I had to do was unscrew the pyrex lens over the oven light and then remove the old gasket and replace it with the new one. Worked like a champ!

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

No repair. I've used the new one and like the one that cracked on the wiring it works beautifully. I APPRECIATED THE VERY QUICK RESPONSE FROM YOU AS I RECEIVED IT IN ONLY 2 DAYS. THANK YOU

After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.

This is an easy fix. Just before the holidays, it was imperative that this appliance be in top shape. Since the door 'hung' wrong, it was determined that the hinge pin broke. Remove the 2 phillips head screws on the door and open the door to the to a 15 degree opening. This position allows you to slip the door off the hinge levers. Now that the door is off, replace the hinge pin and slip the retainer ring on with a screw driver blade to push it on the pin. Slide the door back on the levers and fasten the retainer screws. DONE!

1. Open door and place a nail in the small circle in each of the two side hinges. This step is crucial. It keeps the hinges from springing back into the oven when the door is removed.

2. Remove the 2 screws on the oven door at the top of each spring. Close the door until stopped by the 2 nails, then lift the door up and off the hinges.

3. Lay the door on a soft surface(some oven parts may be greasy), inside of the door face up, and remove the 5 screws holding the main two halves of the door together. Remove the top piece.

4. Remove the 4 screws that are under the insulation strips. This will damage the strips, but there is no other way. Just try to keep as much of the strip as you can.

5. Continue removing screws and layers of glass (ours had 3 inner layers)until you reach the inner most piece.

6. Replace the broken glass and then reverse the process to put everything back together.

Notes: We work slowly and methodically, so the whole process took us over an hour but we also took this opportunity to really clean every crack and crevasse that is normally hidden. All in all this was not a very hard job and worth doing it as a DYI project instead of calling a repair person.