KCMS1555RWH0 KitchenAid Microwave - Instructions

The repair went well...I am so glad that I read this info before buying a new microwave....it saved me lots of money. I did have a repair man come and look at it and he told me to buy a new one but it cost alot of money when it wasn't necessary. I did the repair and I was very proud of myself.
Three men watched a woman fix this and it was no problem...they were impressed also....

The reason the door would not open upon pressing the door opener is because the BRCKT-LATCH was broken. I discovered that after opening the microwave enclosing. The BRCKT-LATCH has two ends sticking out....each fits into a hole. One of the ends on the LATCH was broken and therefore it was not tightly fit. No upon pushing the door opener the LATCH would not function properly since it was loosely fit and hence the door would not open.
To Fix this issue:
1) Buy a new BRCKT-LATCH
2) Remove the microwave enclosing. I had to use a special screwdriver, since the screws were security protected on my microwave. After removing the case, I opened the door by manually pressing the door latch upwards (please make sure that the microwave is not connected to the electric socket before removing the enclosing).
3) pull out the old LATCH from the microwave.
4) carefully insert the new LATCH. Try not to put too much pressure when trying to fit the latch, or else the ends may snap again!!
5) Close the door and try opening it by pressing the door opener. it should work now!!

Remove top grille (2 screws), undo control panel (1 screw). Tilt down control panel, switches are on the left. There are actually three switches that are involved with the door, two horizontally mounted, one vertically mounted. This would be an EASY REPAIR, but it took me a while to figure out which of the three switches was bad, and also took a while to figure out that there is a plastic rod that inserts through the hole in the switch body. Once i figured this out went like a breeze. Lower horizontal switch was the bad one, but since the kit came with two switches i went ahead and replaced the upper horizontal one as well. IT appears that the horizontal switches are probably more likely to fail than the vertical switch based on the position of the switch and force angles. Works great now!

I used a phillips head screw driver to remove the screws from the sides of the cover. Then used a special torx "security star" screw driver (size t20) to remove the star-shaped screws along the back edges of the cover. I removed the cover from the microwave and set aside. I used a butter knife to gently pry the door latch bracket from the peg holes and removed the broken part. I then used the butter knife to help GENTLY insert the new latch into the slot. I replaced the cover (making sure the front and sides were tucked into the grooves of the frame and then replaced the screws and tightened. All in all, a very easy and inexpensive fix.

After determined the problem on one of the websites...I received the part I needed... removed the control panel and installed the new main fuse In about 15 mins!

-Removed cover ("Star-pin" head security bit needed for this)
- Removed leads from hi-voltage capacitor
- Shorted cap leads with insulated wire to make sure it was dis-charged.
- Removed cap and the the hi-voltage diod
- Installed new parts.

Unfortunatly, still no mwaves (heat) produced, so this means it is the magantron that is dead. Will replace that next.

The hardest part was taking it down from the range hood stand. Without being able to open the door, the glass carousel was moving around. We removed about 7 screws. Luckily we had the special type of allen wrenches (ones with a hole in the middle). It was easy to see what had broke and that it would not be fixable. We tied fishing line to the door hooks so that we could use the oven until the part came in. When I seached the internet and logged onto your site, keyed in the model # and the item I needed was the first item with a picture. I was absolutely sure it was the right part. The price seemed high, but I checked with our local applicance where I bought the oven and it would be the same cost from them and they have always be reasonable. Ordered the part, arrived within 2-3 days and it took only 30 minutes to install. You need to press down on the side of the part (spring loaded) to pop it in place. Helpful to turn the oven on its side to get leverage. Just go slow as the part is plastic. I will use your site again. Thanks.

I removed the unit from the wall. Took the cover off. Set the unit on its side. It revealed the working parts. Removed the old micro switches. Put in the new oness. Presto, it worked. Very easy for me.
The parts was delivered almost before my notice they were shipped.

Problem would come and go. Found service schematic inside unit. Perform all the suggested tests. One possible solution was the primary interlock switch shown on the schematic and a check found the switch stuck. It would free up some times but would stick again in the open position. Ordered switch which was a simple plug in unit.

1. Removed cabinet screws (10-15?). 2. Removed cabinet. 3. Removed top interlock switch which actually was not defective. The press clip connection appeared as if it had been arcing for quite some time and the corrosion created resistance sufficient to prevent the current from getting through the switch. 4. Replaced switch anyway but broke plastic retaining clip despite every effort not to do so. Reset broken clip with super glue. 5. Reassembled cabinet and appliance is in good working condition.

I removed screws from the cover, then I removed the screws holding on the front panel. I then unplugged the connectors, and removed the front panel and broken door latch. Then all I needed to do was slide the new door latch in the spot where the broken one was and put it back together. The only thing to note is which way the yellow and white and the blue and white connectors are on the front plate (location and wire direction). All is working well, and I can open the door again. Needless to say I feel better about repairing the microwave rather then throwing it out getting another one and creating more electronic garbage in a landfill .

I had to remove the housing cover that had about 8 tamper proof screws in order to remove the cover and get into the area where the brkt-latch was. I removed the broken latch found the part I needed on your website, within a few days the part arrived. It took only a few minutes to reinstall the new part and housing cover. Everything works just fine. My guess is we saved $200 from having our local repair service center to do the same job.

Had a Trim Kit to remove, just 2 screws on the front to pull it out. Had to remove the tamperproof screws on the back (the outer shell is held on by them). I had to goto a local hardware store as nothing anywhere mentioned I needed this special tool (NOTE!!!!!!!) The bottom had normal phillips head screws. Note: I did not take the entire shell off, just bent it enough so the base plate could be pulled out. This exposed the motor, which strangely enough is NOT held in by any screws, just notches it slides in. Took the old motor out, came out VERY easily (only 1 plug to pull out). The new motors flange tab was bent a little bit so I had to use pliers to bend it back flat so it would fit in the notch on the bottom of the microwave (very easy). Overall A bit difficult due to special tool needed 9at least for me)

1. Removed exterior cabinet using vice grips to grab the heads of the screws.

2. Removed old broken latch.

3. Snapped the new latch into place. Be careful spreading the two brackets that receive the latch so that they don't break.

4. Re-install exterior.

Took the cover off, had a lot of screws but easy. Removed the old motor and inserted the new motor. Replace the metal cover and it was ready to go. Can't believe I have waited so long to do this. I was going to replace the microwave but could not find the correct size to fit the cabinet.