KAWS855JE4 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

we looked at the video first then my husband fit the proble boy! was i excited! all the stores tried to get me to buy a new one. thanks partselets!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I removed three bolts from the transmission and two clips that hold the motor to the drive gear. I replaced the brake cam that had cracked and the lining. Now it works great ! Ordered part on Friday before two and it came Saturday at four.

The reason it took as long as it did was because the job is not in line as the work I normally do.
It would be a fairly easy job for an experienced repairman. (Taking the back off the washer was time consuming for me) The rest of the job was easy as the part was a perfect fit.
I remember having a problem blending hot/cold water for some time. Most recently, while washing a load the water did not want to shut off. I can't remember how I diagnosed the water not shuting off as a problem along with the water temp control, but it is now repaired.
With the new valve installed, water temp select is now OK and the water now shuts off as normal.

After taking the entire washer apart one time, we learned that we could take the top and front of the machine off only to repair it. I found Part-select online and with the model number locating the part was easy. It arrived within 3 days and with instructions I could easily replace the old part with a few tools. I spent dollars instead of hundreds for a new machine.

First I removed the softener bin by pulling it up and off, then I removed the plastic seal by pulling it up and out, then I removed the 1/2 inch bolt with a ratchet and extension, then I removed the upper and lower agitator assembly from the machine and seperated the two by putting my feet on the lower agitator to hold it to the floor and pulling the upper agitator fast and firmly.
Sitting on top of the lower agitator I found the dog ear assembly. I pulled the dog ear assembly off and removed the yellow cap and existing dog ears.
Assembly was reverse.

Removed capscrew in end of agitator shaft took cover off machine-[ unscrewed two screws holding down control panel, hinged back, pryed retaining clips out, rocked back machine cover.]
Removed motor mounting clips and pump hoses, swinging motor and pump out of the way. Removed 3 capscrews holding transmission, pulled transmission towards me removing agitator shaft, disassembled clutch assembly - removing one cirlip then another, installed new clucth parts in same order

Unplug power from wall.
Disconnected water lines
Tip Unit on it's side. (Recommend turning so motor is to the top side)
Disconnect Electrical connector and Hoses from the pump and motor.
Disconnect metal straps used to retain the motor to the transmission. (screwdriver to pry)
Remove old coupling pieces from transmission/motor(used a long screw driver, rock back and forth)
used air compressor to clean up electric motor
replace new coupling on motor and transmisison (may need hammer to tap into place)
set rubber bushing on transmission side (transmission shaft should be facing up at this point)
replace electric motor into place, making sure to line up bushing and motor mounts.
replace metal strap connectors between transmission / motor (this can be tricky, as the one in the back is hard to get at.)
replace electrical connectors and hoses
connect washing machine power and water and test

I pulled back off machine. A real pain. Not something you have to do although once the back is off, the whole cabinet just lifts off. Idealy: Remove agitator and reatiner clip, lay washer on it's side or face, Remove electrical connector form motor, remove two hoses from pump, (motor can be remove easily from transmission if desired. It's lighter), remove three 1/2" bolts, lift transmission w/clutch assembly out. Pay attention to orientation of flat washer and clip (remove). The cluch band is indside the silver cover. Pich together with pliers to relieve tension and lift out. There are three while pads that wear away and glaze over when they get too hot from slipping. Reassemble. Ths is from memory so I hope I didn't forget anything. Time to do it this way would probably only be 45 minutes.

Disconnet the washer from supply lines. pull washer out, tip on side. Remove water hoses from pump, have to squeeze hose clamps with pliers and slide them down the hose. Then remove the hoses from the pump. Then locate spring retainers that hold pump to drive motor, place flat blade screw driver under each clip and pry clip loose, then remove pump.
Install new pump on shaft, making sure that alignment dowels line up with holes on pump. Hold pump in place and using finger push retainer clips over lip of pump, install hoses on pump, install hose clamps. Hook washer up to supply lines, drain lines, plug in and you'r done.

This is a relatively new washer and failed early. My previous whirlpool washer lasted 20 years without any repairs. 1. First inquired about the spin problem in partselect. Machine will not sping unless manualy forced then it will take off but weak. 2. Partselect suggested a clutch problem. Ordered the part that came fast. When I tried removing the shaft hub with a hammer and chisel it will not get loose so I opted ordering the special wrench to loosen the tub hub. 3. I put the machine on its back and loosened the pump retaining clips. Do not remove the hoses from the pump. Move the pump away from the motor shaft. Remove the motor electrical connector and set aside. 4. Remove the three bolts holding the gearbox-motor assemply and pull it out of the tub. 5. Put the assembly on a towelwith shaft up and remove the separator washer from the old clutch that is sitting on the gearbox. Then remove the c-retaining clip from the shaft. 6. Pry out the wire retaining clip from the clutch and pull the old clutch out of the shaft. 7. The clutch kit I ordered came with a plastic brake to clutch cam so I replaced it too, just remove the retainig clip from the brake that is at the bottom of the tub and replaced the part. 8. Installed the new clutch and the retaining clips in reverse order. Replace all parts that came with the kit. The new clutch spring was already in place. 9. Put the assembly back into the tub and re-install all the other items in the same order. It spins good now! 10. While replacing parts, methodically clean all the lint from the motor and from under the machine. The gearbox showed signs of leaking oil so its a question of cost. I left it there until it fails then I'll buy a new machine.

Just bought my washer and dryer from Home Depot, but bought an Admiral model that didn't come with a fabric softener dispenser. Ordered the part from PartSelect and after rocket fast shipping installed it in seconds. The installation required no tools as the dispenser just snapped right in. My clothes are now soft and free of static cling. Thank you PartSelect!!

Replaced AGITATOR DIRECTIONAL COGS (4) looking instruction video . Replaced CLUTCH LINING KIT following video of this site "WASHER REPAIR-REPLACING THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY". Replaced SEAL, GEARCASE COVER and NEUTRAL DRIVE ASSEMBLY as follow: 1)CLUTCH Assembly and motor removed, took the GEARCASE on a bench vise to hold in place and the long shaft up side. You can get help from other person to hold secured in place instead a vise.2)Following a youtube video I tested gearcase with a reversible drill using DIRECT DRIVE MOTOR COUPLING PART next To transmission side instead of electrical motor. Drill turning counter clockwise drive the long shaft oscillating (it agitate via agitator cogs). Drill turning clockwise run the exterior sleeved part around shaft (upper side of metal gear inside gearcase and fixed on top to clutch to get washer spin). My experience was didn't rotate so we had to take apart gearcase cover.3)Unscrewed and removed gearcase cover. Cover was sticked by old seal gasket so a screwdriver helped me to remove it.4)Cleaned joint removing old gasket.5)Repeating drill test I realized big nylon gear did'nt rotated and removed uppercut clip with pin pliers with care for not lose the pin. Removed the next washer, the plastic gear and found a plastic part with a tooth broken. This part is with NEUTRAL DRAIN ASSEMBLY so replaced assembly following part instructions. I recommend take pictures in order to reassemling and use ALLEN WRENCH 5/32'' inches.6)Fill up to half of gearcase with 16 ounces (about 1/2 of case) of gear oil supplied by PARTSELECT or automotive gear oil SAE 85w90 or SAE 90.7)Replaced SEAL, GEARCASE COVER. HARD TO REMOVED AND REPLACE! Take care not break!. I had to use a piece of metal tube and a vise.8)Applied automotrice black seal gasket silicone around the cover joint and case.9) Replaced the cover and reversal instruction video.THANKS to this site I get excellent service and Enjoyed with my toy.

placed washer on side and installed new pads
and returned washer upright

Removed screws on top of machine to remove the control unit out of the way. Then used large regular screw driver to pry out the two clips that hold the back of the washer tight to the top frame. This allows the back to come away from the machine enough to get the water inlet valve free. Didn't have to remove the bolts at the bottom of the back of the machine (they were pretty rusty) Just removed the single screw holding the water inlet valve in place, slid it down and away from the back cover and could fish it out to the side and disconnect the hose (with plyers) and slide off electrical clips (make a note of which clip goes to which valve.) I removed the part first so I could make sure I was ordering the right one. When the part came (very promptly by the way) it went back together easy. Only question was regarding reinstalling the wires since I didn't mark which way they went. I knew which one went on the Hot and Cold but didn't know if it mattered which clips went on each terminal. Figuring it was AC guessed it didn't matter so put it together the way the connectors seemed to want to lie naturally. Put it together making sure no hoses or wires where pinched or rubbing against sharp edges. Replaced the rubber washers in the hoses and made sure the hose connectors turned freely (they had been rusted a bit and didn't turn on the hose freely and I think this was the start of the cross threading problem) This time the hoses went back on very easily, screwed them hand tight not forcing anything at any time (DIDN"T USE PLIERS!). Tried water and no more leaks. Washer filled faster also, think this was because the screens on the water valve were plugged. I'll have to remember to take the hoses off and make sure the screens are clear every couple years or so. If you are having slow fills, suggest you check this first before tearing in to the machine.

The repair is very easy with the part found at PartSelect.com. Take the following steps to replace the water level switch:
1. Remove the front panel by unscrewing two screws on the back side
2. Pull off the dial knob from the front
3. Twist the water level switch in either way to remove the switch from the panel
4. Disconnect the connector of control wires and water hose from the broken switch
5. Reconnect the control connector and water hose
6. Push and twist the switch to put back on the front panel
7. secure the front panel by tighten up two screws on the back side of panel