JW3000A Jenn-Air Washer - Instructions

Top loader May Tag washer with open bottom. After research I presumed it needed a new belt, or Transmission, which runs 3 pulleys under the open bottom. After tipping the washer back for inspection, saw oil splatter underneath. Removed old belt by turning largest pulley on Transmission while pulling the belt "off" the edge. Belt was aged, Stretched and worn. Belt and all 3 pulleys were oily causing slippage. The main large Drive pulley on the Transmission shaft, has a plastic snap on grease cup at it's center. I snapped it off with screw driver. The cup was partially full of thinned old grease causing the oily mess. There's a C clip inserted in a groove on the end of the drive shaft holding the pulley on. Removed the C clip with screw driver tip and slid off the Drive pulley. The Center of the pulley contains a plastic ratchet assembly that operates the washer tub cycle to rotate and stop and repeat. The ratchet assembly falls right out, and in the end of transmission is a Thrust washer which can be pulled of easily also. I Cleaned all 3 pulleys with De-greaser and finally with Rubbing Alcohol to dry the pulley surfaces. Then cleaned and removed all grease from the plastic ratchet assembly parts and cleaned them. Then I Repacked everything including the Drive shaft with "heavier" Grease that would not break down so easy. Reassembled everything in reverse and installed on the shaft. Snapped the C clip back on to hold pulley back in place and then the Grease cup, which just snaps back in place with a push. Installed new drive belt in the same manner it was removed, only in reverse by turning the pulley, and pushing the belt "on" over the edge of the pulley. Problem fixed and washer works perfect again with Noticeably better operation through all washer cycles.

Hardest part was finding part that needed the needed repair. Searching the web for issues associated with the sound resulted in many links. Once the sound was found, I went to the video to see how to remove the Water Pump so I could examine it to confirm that was the correct piece. It took about 15 minutes to remove the part. Since I had to remove the belt to get it out, I realize that the belt needed replacement as well. So both parts were ordered. Replacing the parts also took about 15 minutes. Relatively easy repair. Be aware that the video on the part select video shows the water pump in a different location than the Maytag washer. To get to the Maytaq water pump, there is a panel in the back that had to be opened to access the water pump.

Using nutdriver or screwdriver, remove metal panel from lower left side of back of washer to expose the pump. This is where the drain hose attaches to the washer. Use pliers to move the clamp off of the drain hose, then ease the hose off of the pump by wiggling it back and forth while pulling gently. Be careful to keep drain hose opening pointed upward until you can point it to a bucket, as there's likely to be quite a bit of water in it. Detach drain hose on other end as well (wiggling / pulling works well here; no clamp is used, so no pliers are required). Install new hose by reversing above steps.

I just put the pully on then put the belt on and started washing clothes thank you very much for your help in getting me the pully in a timely matter aloha

removed rear acess panel and used pliers to remove leaking hose then reinstalled new hose..

Took off the back plate. Looked to see where it was leaking. Squeezed the clamps on top and bottom to remove from hose and pull hose out.

Pop the top of the washer and use the nutdriver to remove the two screws holding the frontpanel on. Use the nutdriver for two more screws holding the plastic motor cover on. Use nutdriver for the two BIG screws holding the motorplate to the washer frame. After this, I literally beat/chiped/sawed the old motor geat off. Once that was done, I put the new one on; had to use a hammer to knock it all the way on (try not to damage the clips). Reassemble everything. Flip washer over and place bet around two smaller gears. Rotate main tub gear to feed belt on. Make sure you use the nutdriver to loosen/tighten the motor positioner screws in the slots if things aren't working here.
The only really hard thing was taking the old motor gear off.

Disconnected the power plug. Turned off the hot & cold hose water supply. Put down old bath towel. Disconneced hoses from machine inlet valve. Opened entire top for access to electrical connections & fill hose. Replaced inlet valve, new wire connectors. Replaced the hot & cold water hoses.

This was my first washing machine repair.

Replacing the pump with the new pump was very easy for me, because of my degree in Mechanical engineering, so I am use to dealing with pumps, engines, gears,etc. However, my wife watched me do the entire job and she is now able to replace this part in the future. The design of the Maytag is very simple to repair, and for that I am very greatful that we can order the parts and do the repairs ourselves withhout having to call a repairman. This was our first problem after 6 years of smooth operations by this washer.

Removed the inner basket and outer tub to replace the gasket and rubber seal. just had to remove about a dozen screws to get it out.

Tipped the machine up to replace the belt.
The noise didn't go away at first. I decided to spray all the pulleys with some silicone spray, that did the trick.

Removed the front panel to get some light in to the machine. Removed the two hoses connecting the pump to the drain and tub. Removed the three screws holding the old pump in place. Did the reverse to install.
This was a piece of cake.
Thanks for having the parts needed to do this job.
Tom

I unplugged the machine, tipped it back slightly and rested in on a gallon paint can. I inspected the under side and manually advanced the fan belt to hear if I could hear the noise at the water pump. The pump pulley and shaft was worn and there were metal shavins (small) on surface of pulley.

Then I removed the belt from the pulley, rested the machine back to normal position, removed front panel (two sheet metal screws on inside top), removed the water pump hoses (htere is water int he hose & pump assembly so you will get some water on floor.

Then I removed the pump and ordered a new one. The installation was the reverse, machine works like new and the washer tub spins better than ever during the final rinse and spin, since the worn water pump was binding and stressing the machine.

Thanks to Part Select - Your website is awesome and your service instructions and user advice gave me the confidence to do the repair myself. I saved $150 - $250 for the repair.

remmoved the screws on the back that hold the panel on. removed the two hoses attched to the pump. removed three screws and pulled the pump out. spun the pulley and noticed no movement inside. looked closer at the pulley to notice it was broken. ordered new pulley online. received quickly. new part fit exacttly right. put three screws back in. hooked two hoses back up. put belt on pulley. plugged in and worked great.

took back off washer with nutdriver, pulled wires off by hand, ( was unplugged ). pliars used to remove hose, regular clamp put back on. reinstalled back plugged in, tested water,,,, done

repaced faulty pump,motor pully then installed a new belt