The surface element, also known as the coil surface element, transfers heat to the area on top of range. The element is 8 inches in diameter. If your surface element does not heat, over heats, or heat...
$61.79
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If you notice that your surface element will not heat properly, you may need to replace it. This surface element is 6 inches in diameter and 240V. It is a Y-frame surface burner element with five turn...
$57.41
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This bake element is used in ranges and located at the bottom of the oven. The bake element supplies heat for baking. If your symptoms include: your oven is not heating evenly, not starting, or the he...
$71.47
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The metallic clip, or also known as a broil element support, is for a oven element on a range. This part holds the broil element in place on top of the oven. If your support clip is broken then this r...
$16.68
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This OEM-sourced broil element with push-on terminals is located on the roof of your oven cavity, providing heat from above to cook and heat your food. It requires a 240-volt power supply to function ...
$81.33
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It is possible that your oven is cold because of a fault in the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor regulates oven temperature in modern ranges, like a thermostat. It is on the back wall near t...
$151.71
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This is a replacement burner drip bowl for your range. The drip bowl collects spills and debris during cooking. If your burner bowl is damaged or you just want to replace it, simply disconnect the bur...
$13.97
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This is a surface burner terminal block kit, also known as range surface element receptacle, for an oven, range, or stove. The kit comes with the terminal block, mounting clip, and wires. This surface...
$78.35
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This large broiler pan is found in the bottom of your oven and is used to catch drippings from broiling foods. This part includes the grate and bottom pan and is made of porcelain. The grate measures ...
$30.07
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Questions And Answers for JMP28BW2AD
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Karen
October 26, 2022
The drip bowls for my GE space maker are smaller than the normal drip pans I don’t see them on here they are 9 3/4 and 7 1/2 you used to sell them in store but are no longer available and I don’t see any on here how to I get replacements?
For model number JMP28BW2AD
Hello Karen, Thank you for your inquiry. We have researched the model number that you have provided and show the compatible drip bowls as PS8754845 and PS244370. Although it shows 6 inch and 8 inch, it is referring to the inner part of the bowl that fits into the hole on the stove and not the total diameter. We hope this helps and if you need help placing an order for a part, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
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This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.
SYMPTOM: The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was
... Read more about 150 degrees to low.
FAILURE POINTS: There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.
REPAIR: As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!
Pull oven from the wall: - Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position. - Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off) - Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling - The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.
As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed, - Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws) - Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit) - Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board). - Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.
Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY... - 1.02K ohms in ice water - 1.09K ohms at room temperature - 1.36K ohms in boiling water. If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.
If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board. - Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant. - Carefully remove the wires one at a time - VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board. -- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector. - Remove the controller board (4 screws) - Install new controller board (4 screws) - VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side. -- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then, -- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then -- Press down on the connector locking tabs. - Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board. -- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter. - Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires. - Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.) - Re-install top cover. - Re-install service connect cover.
You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet, - Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place. - Flip power breaker to "On". - Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
first, made sure circuit breaker was off second, used nut driver to remove 2 screws on old element, pulled it from the back of the oven third, removed 2 wires from old element (spade connectors) fourth, connected new element and pushed back into oven. fifth, reinstalled 2 screws securing new element
this was
... Read more all done by my 15 yr old son under my supervision.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches, but I had not turned off the power. So, I shorted out one of the wires. Then I turned off the power but was afraid to go any farther. An appliance repairman was at my house that day fixing my dryer seal. He was able to pu
... Read morell the wires through the insulation successfully and install the broiler element. He did not charge me any extra for this little extra job. But I learned my lesson. Cut the power before you begin! He told me that I could have wound up with a much bigger repair if the short had been in the wire that is connected to the control panel of the oven. I was very lucky!
