JJW8127AAB Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

replaced broiler element - still would not heat.
Called repairman and the control panel is out and will cost around 200.00 to replace. To replace the element, my son helped as my arms weren't long enough. Removed two screws at back and two screws on front of broiler brace. Pulled out and removed wires and hooked them to the new element. Had to turn off circuit breaker. Pushed element back into the holes and replaced screws.
In this instance, it would have been cheaper had I just called the repairman first. However, I have an extra broiler element in case it goes out again.

SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

Diagnosis is the important aspect. Ovens have plunger-type switches to tell the "brain" door is closed, both for the light AND to allow initiation of self cleaning. Finally discovered one of those switches was "scratchy" in operation and unreliable in closing the circuit. (Push the plungers in and out several times and observe the light.) If not 100% reliable, replace that switch (cheap and easy with a Phillips screwdriver.) Initial guess was a $major "brain"-electronics problem but it was merely a sticky switch. Strange since the unit is about a year and a half old and rarely used. Found the part easily with PartSelect, and it came via UPS quickly.

I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).

I ordered the bake heating element from Part Select on March 23rd and paid the small amount for overnight shipping. Believe it or not I received the heating element the next morning at 10:00 am. I do not know how they did this since I live in KC MO and they are in PA i believe. They show you a diagram of the part you need with the part number on their web sight. I opened the well packaged item and took out two screws on the existing bad element and took it out, BY THE WAY MAKE SURE THAT YOU SHUT OFF THE POWER TO THE OVEN. I neglected to turn off the breaker because I thought the oven would have to be on to have power. This was a mistake because the heating element shorted when I tried to pull it out.
This was entirely my fault. I shut off the breaker and installed the new heating element in about five minutes. It worked great and we had our oven back in two days. My wife was very impressed with my electronics experience but I did not tell her everything. I would highly recomend this company. Don

I removed the 2 screws in the back. You have limited room to work but it is enough. The screws were somewhat hard to come off so I used a rachet set as well as a screwdriver. Pulled the element forward and tilted it up. The prongs has to be wiggled out. Went back together very easily. Wouldn't have tried it myself if I hadn't read the posts here. It was REALLY that easy!!!

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Removed old part with a pair of pliers and plugged the new part into place.

Very simple and the self cleaning feature works again.

Sunday, four days before Thanksgiving, our oven would not bake properly. A quick check indicated the top element was not working. What to do? Where to get a part in time to fix for Thanksgiving dinner? The answer was easy - PartSelect. I had the part in my hands on Tuesday AM. Oven was fixed in 15 minutes and my wife was baking pies within an hour. All worked well and yes, we had a wonderful trukey dinner. Great service !

Piece of cake. Removed two screws holding the element in place and pulled the element out to expose two wires connected with friction clips. Connected the new element and screwed it back in place. My wife got back to baking and now I am enjoying a different piece of cake.

I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. This repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

The repair was really simple. I removed the 2 screws holding the baking element to the oven wall, pulled the element out about 2 inches, lifted the front of the element and pulled it out more to reach the 2 wires. I disconnected the two wires and reversed the procedure for installation, inserted the 2 screws and turned the power back on. The element works fine.