JGS968SEK1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.

After removing the door and the lower pan cover, I removed 4 screws holding down the flame spreader. Once the flame spreader was off, I was looking at the two screws that hold on the igniter assembly. For some reason, these seemed to be the worst part of the repair. One screw broke off at the head as soon as I tried to loosen it. The other was apparently stripped during the initial installation. Due to lack of space to fit the dremel tool in the area, it took quite some time to remove the second screw. Once I finally got those removed, it was a piece of cake. The assembly easily pulled out approximately 4 inches to disconnect the plug. The new plug was easy to insert and push back in the cavity behind the oven. I had extra sheet metal screws, so the installation of the new assembly took less than 10 minutes. As I said, the worst part was the stripped screw and lack of space to get the proper tool to remove it.

LIke the other posters, this should have been an easy fix. From internet research my official self-diagnosis was that either the ignitor didn't work or there was a problem with a temperature sensor or control module. At $70 for the part vs. $230 to get a Sears repair main out here (in two weeks time?!), I rolled the dice and decided to order the part.

Taking the door off of the oven took a bit of figuring out (back to the internet), but once you know how it's very easy - 10 seconds.

After you take off the door, you then take out what I would call a heat shield that goes across the entire bottom of the oven (no tools needed) and then remove the 'heat spreader' with a socket set. That came off easy as well. Total time maybe 5 minutes.

Then the fun started. One of the two screws that connects the igniter sheared off. Luckily it sheared in a way that it didn't hold the ignitor any more, and the other screw maintained its integrity so in the end I could re-attach the ignitor. Ignitor off in less than 5 minutes.

All the repair guides say that you just unplug the ignitor from the quick disconnect plug and replace it with the new one. Sounds great but I couldn't get to the quick disconnect - the wires wouldn't pull far enough out to reveal the quick disconnect. I could see it and feel it with a finger in the hole, but either the wires weren't long enough or it was caught on something (felt like the former). I tried pulling harder, but got to a point where I felt I was going to break something and so I stopped.

I then started looking at how I could get the back of the oven off or another way to get access to that quick disconnect. Long story short - you can't do it through the front of the oven, you have to pull the entire oven out and go through a hatch in the back of the oven. Once I had figured that out everything was ok, but it took me 2 days of poking around for 10 minutes here, going to the internet there, and back and forth to decide I couldn't get to it from the front and how exactly to pull the oven out (turns out the type with the controls on the front hangs down from the counter itself and doesn't slide out easy - it takes some elbow grease to actually do it.).

In the end I wasn't confident I could get it back in by myself if I slide it completely out, so I pulled it part-way and then climbed on the counter and then into the small space I had created behind the stove.

Everything said and done I spent a couple hours messing with this. It turns out that the wires for both ignitors were routed around each other incorrectly and when I reconnected the new ignitor correctly I could pull the ignitor through the front of the oven like you're supposed to do. Glad it's fixed, but nothing is ever as easy as it should be...

Unplugged appliance and removed 5 screws on back of stove/oven and removed plate. Disconnected the sensor and unscrewed it on the inside of the oven. Pulled the cord through and replaced with new sensor. Replaced all parts and plugged in the appliance and tested. Worked great.

The repair went very easy. The replacement part was designed differently than the original part. It installed on the rear of the drawer with a screw as the original snapped into the side. This was a bit confusing when researching and looking up the part online.

1) pull out the stove
2) remove the 7 sheet metal screws holding the back panel on. (the panel that also covers where the cord splits and connects to the oven.
3) Find the small plastic connector located in the middle of the back of the range and unplug it.
4) open the front of the oven and remove the one screw holding in the oven temp sensor.
5) replace the sensor and make sure to "feed" the new cord through as best you can.
6) I had to dig through the insulation a little bit to find the new wiring harness
7) connect the wiring harness and put the back of the range back on

note: this was very simple to do if you think this might be the problem don't hesitate to handle this one yourself.

Self-diagnosed the repair over the internet. The "hardest part" was figuring how to remove the oven door (needed instruction manual for that one). Once off, four screws to remove the cover at the bottom of the oven compartment revealed the igintor assembly. The two screws securing the assembly snapped off due to corrosion, but aside from that literally plug-in and replace. PartsSelect site was the least expensive and the part arrived the next day as indicated. All my repairs should go this easy.

The only difficult part of the repair was getting the original screws out of the old igniter and oven gas arm. Once I drilled the old screws out the repair was done within 20 minutes.

A rubber grate foot on my range top had worn out. I pulled the worn foot out and installed the new grate foot with no tools or accessories. Good as new! Now I don't have to worry about the grate scraping my range top and scratching the paint. I also ordered extras so I won't have to wait if another wears out.

Followed instructions and removed door. Loosened screws/bolts. Pulled the door apart. Removed the bracket that would hold the glass. Removed the broken glass and inserted the replacement glass. Re-assembled the door and reinstalled the door. Took all of 20 mins.

Replaced temperature sensor in the oven first ($10 part, always start with least expensive possibility!), but that didn't solve the problem. 5-10 minute repair, not counting moving the range in and out of it's home between cabinets. Next replaced the control board ($90 part) which solved the overheating problem. 15 to 30 minute repair, don't be intimidated by all the wires. Remember to turn off power at the breaker (duh). Order the faceplate graphic ($37 part) because chances are the old one won't peel off cleanly (ours didn't, "I was really careful Honey!!) and the otherwise excellent PartSelect.com website doesn't suggest the part might be needed. Anyway, I saved a minimum of $80 plus Labor by doing it myself. I had the advantage of living about 100 miles from their warehouse and got NEXT DAY delivery from FedEx instead of 3-5 business days. Suggest you order before noon.

Replacing the sensor was a snap and not as involved as I feared. 1) open the oven door; 2) remove the one hex screw holding the old sensor to the back of the oven; 3) gently pull the sensor, pulling the wiring out to access the plastic wire connector (carefully guide the plastic wire connector through the opening); 4) loop a small piece of wire (stiff enough to form a hook) around the base of the wire connector to keep the wire from falling into the back wall of the oven; 5) unclip the connector and remove the bad sensor; 6) clip in the new sensor; 7) remove your catch wire; 8) thread the wiring back through the opening; 9)position the new sensor and secure with the hex screw; and 10) turn on the oven and prove to your wife you do know what you are doing!

First remove the oven door. Then remove the grills,and finally the bottom cover plate exposing the oven igniter assembly.The only tool needed is a 1/4 inch socket to remove approximately eight screws.The igniter is a plug type device having a male amphenol.Pull the wires towards you to expose the connector,make the repair being careful to shove the connector back from whence it came and reassemble all the parts..Done!

There are 2 screws to remover to replace the element. That was the hard part as they were very stubborn to get out. I have to use a flexible bit and an impact driover to get them loose. Other than that, the replacement was smooth as silk !!

remove the oven door to remove the lower oven tray next remove the four 1/4 in. head screws from the burner cover to get access to the igniter remove the two 1/4 in.screws with small socket, wires must be pulled out from behind the oven rear wall to get access to the connector plug, disconnect and attach new connector to plug and tuck wires and plug back behind oven insulation reinstall screws in igniter bracket at this time i tried the oven,it lit , reinstall burner cover,oven tray and oven door .