JGBP79WEW1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.

No problem installing oven sensor, but I diagnose the problem wrong, I need to change(ERC-11)control p/n wb27k5140

the flame spreader through the years, developed a hole above the glow coil causing the above trapped gas between the oven pan and spreader to ignite. by replacing the flame spreader the problem is gone and is now working properly. thank you, parts select for being there when i needed the part and also being reasonably priced. mike marino

First remove the broiler drawer. I laid on my side and reached into the oven to do the work, I first removed the one screw holding the splash plate (in the rear) and lifted the plate out. Then, removed the two screws mounting the ignighter to the burner base. Cut the wires on the old ignighter about half way between the connectors on the safety valve and the ignighter. I used a utility knife to strip 3/8" of the insulation on the wires still connected to the valve. Then, mount the new ignighter. Route the ignighter wires behind the gas tube. Use the enclosed ceramic wire nuts to connect the new ignighter wires to the wires still attached to the valve. Push the wire nuts into the hole behind the valve. Reinstall the splash guard and broiler tray.

Three were simple screw out and replace with a nut driver. The warming burner had a smaller opeining which was too large for the nut driver. Had to remove shielding aroound it first. Simple, job. My mother did the last one.

I located the igniter module by following the wires to the top/rear of the stove. Removed two sheet metal guards and marked and numbered each electrical wire before removing them. Reasembled in reverse order. Wife thinks I'm a genius!

Removed bottom shelf from inside oven, turned it obj and replaced the oven deflector with only a screwdriver

This was a real easy repair. The key is to remove the door (by lifting straight up) and remove the bottom drawer. Then take all the trays out of the oven, using a screw driver remove the bottom pan that hides the burner and igniter. From underneath the oven (ie drawer space) use a screw driver to disconnect two screws that hold the burner assembly against the back wall of the oven. Then remove the one screw from inside the oven that holds the burner assembly (its close to the door area). Unplug the two igniter wires from underneath the oven and then lift out the entire burner assembly. Take off the two screws that hold the old igniter to the burner and replace with new igniter. Make sure you mark the wires when you remove them because you need the connectors on the end for the new wire. Then give yourself plenty of wire, cut the old wire off the old igniter and using the provided wire ties join them to the new igniter wires and reconnect everything. Sounds complicated but it took me about 20 minutes and its really an easy repair. Good luck.

layed the range on its side and removed the gas valve installed the new valve leak checked and tested works like new. Great service and parts availability, shipping was fast.

STOVE Much easier to perform than expected. First, pull the plug. Second, lift door off hinges and remove bottom storage door. Then remove bottom tray (2 thumbscrews) and the head spreader below that (1 screw). Now disattach the two wire nuts that attach the igniter to electric (from bottom, where door was). I guess this has been changed once. If it had not been, might have had to cut these lines. Then, back inside the stove, remove the flame delivery tube or whatever it's called. It kind of twists as it pulls up. From there, it's easy to disattach the igniter with a wrench and then reassemble all in reverse order. Hardest part was getting one of the wire nuts to take. One of the replacement ones just did not grab, so reused one of the preexisting.
OVEN Only hard part was getting the stovetop to release. Take off all the burner guards and such. Then lift the top slightly to locate the two push clips. Push each back in turn with a screwdriver, and this releases the stovetop, which rises up until it rests on two rests. Piece of cake to remove th electrode and attach new one.
All working fine!

Replaced old with new.

Took top off, removed wires from old spark module and put them on new one. Very easy and quick, works very well now.

I was a bit hesitant to perform this repair but attempted it due to the other write-ups which were very helpful. The repair went very well and was quite easy. There was a suggestion to remove the gas defuser (the pipe thing that has the igniter attached), I believe loosening this defuser made the whole repair so much easer and quicker. Trying to remove the two screws that hold the igniter without this approach would have been very difficult. I was hesitant to do this but removing the 3 screws that hold the defuser in place was not a problem at all.

slid the old ones out and slid the new ones in. done

replaced ignitor switch between top burner knob and burner valve. Removed two screws from the top of the front panel and 4 screws from under side of front panel. removed panel and ignitor switch. slipped new switch on to valve stem reinstalled panel. ignitor works fine. You do not need to disconnect any gas lines to do this repair