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Models > JGB918SEL3SS > Instructions

JGB918SEL3SS General Electric Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for JGB918SEL3SS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the JGB918SEL3SS
31-45 of 327
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Original burner cap was chipping; must have been dropped somewhere along the line.

  • Customer: Mitzi from Briarcliff Manor, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
New burner cap replaced old; just placed over burner; no tools required.

One suggestion: burner cap should have been shipped with thicker bubble protection (easy to do). It was minimally wrapped and placed in a thin, bubble envelope, risking damage in shipping process. Luckily, the burner arrived in tact and usable.

Oven would not heat

  • Customer: Andrew from Alexandria, VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
This would've been an easy repair, but I ran into some complications.

First I removed the thumb screws holding the bottom oven pan, took the pan out, and also took the bottom panel off the front of the oven.

This gives you access to the burner assembly. I disconnected the wire to the ignitor. I then removed one screw at the front, and two in the back of the burner assembly with a 1/4 socket wrench.

The burner assembly came out. I tested the ignitor for continutiy with a multimeter to ensure this was the faulty part. There was not continuity, so I knew the ignitor needed to be replaced.

This was when I tried to unscrew the ignitor, and both screws stripped their threads on the burner mounting plate. Complication #1. Seems with age, that mounting plate tightened up on the screws.

I cut the screw heads off with a dremel and cutting wheel to get them out. I'm glad I did this before ordering the new part because I needed to order the replacement screws too.

The burner mounting plate for the ignitor needed to be re-tapped to get the new screws in with a 10-32 tap and power drill.

Once the mounting plate was properly rethreaded, I attached the new ignitor, and reattached the burner assembly to the oven.

When trying to connect the wires, the plastic connectors wouldn't click together. They matched up fine, but wouldn't go all the way in. Complication #2. While the plastic connectors were properly mated, the inside pins were both female. The old ignitor had male pins on it, the new one had female pins. So I removed the burner assembly again, cut off the new ignitor connector and spliced in the old ignitor connector with the included porcelain wire nuts.

I put the oven back together again, fired it up, and it worked great.

Replacing the bulb in the freezer side

  • Customer: Yafa (and David) from Bothell, WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Burner on stove not working correctly

  • Customer: Trevor from Eldersburg, MD
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Order parts and installed - no tools needed - completed repairs less than 1 minute

Oven bottom tray would not clean up.Looked like finish was off it

  • Customer: Jim from 29 Palms, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
removed two screws and took out bottom tray and put the new one in and replaced the screws.DId it my self.

light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad

  • Customer: Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Hole burned through deflector oven and metal dropped onto igniter and burned it out

  • Customer: Scott from ARDMORE, PA
  • Difficulty: Very Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed bottom shelf from inside oven, turned it obj and replaced the oven deflector with only a screwdriver

Oven would not ignite

  • Customer: Todd from Falcon, CO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the broiler from the bottom of the oven, then pulled the oven way from the wall to unplug it. I then removed the two screws that hold the igniter element in place. Ironically, the plug GE manufactures is reversed so i had to strip the plug and go end and reverse the wires to attach them to the oven. I used ceramic wire attachments as plastic would surely have melted. Replaced the screws, replaced the broilers, plugged it in, replaced against the wall and it fired up.

Over not heating

  • Customer: Chris from Inglewood, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
1. Removed oven door..
2. Slide out floor plate of over.
3. Removed four screws securing the flame shield.
4. removed the two screws attaching the heating element to the burner.
5. Pulled heating element wires out of rear hole in oven and detached plug.
6. Attached new element and reassembled in reverse order.

burner caps began to chip

  • Customer: Anne from Plainview, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the two range grills. Then I removed the two chipped burner caps, and replaced them with the new burner caps. I then replaced the two range grills.

Replace glowbar igniter

  • Customer: Daniel from Espanola, NM
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the old glowbar's two screws. Didn't take a mental photo of its proper placcement (or a real one, which would've been smart). Removed screws holding 1) a heat protection plate, and 2) wire harness plate. Installed the new glowbar, hopefully, the right way - with its heat-plate facing the gasline of the over/broiler. Reinstalled the heat protection plate and wire harness plate. Hasn't blown up yet!

Oven wouldn't heat

  • Customer: William from South Bristol, ME
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
In general, other repair stories on this site collectively give a good description of the repair process. My words concern the decision that has to be made as to which element is bad - igniter or gas valve. To reach a conclusion about this question, I was comforted by the fact that I could measure the AC electric current through the gas valve which then let me decide that my problem was in the igniter. Since the circuit is a simple series with three elements, thermostat, igniter, and valve and the resistance of the valve unit was 1.0 to 1.2 ohms (per GE range equipment instruction which came with the range) by measuring the AC volts across the valve, I found (by dividing the volts AC across the gas valve (2.3 volts) by the resistance of the valve mechanism (1.0 ohms) that my old igniter was only supplying 2.3 AC amperes (instruction sheet states 2.9 amps. is needed to actuate the valve and further while heating of the oven is occurring the valve AC current will raise to 3.2 to 3.6 amps.). At 2.3 amps. the igniter will glow at a yellow color but will not actuate the valve. When you replace the old igniter with a new one you will enjoy to measure voltage across the gas valve once again and discover that the voltage rises to 2.9 volts and that the gas turns on and the heater tube gas is ignited.

Oven wouldn't heat

  • Customer: Erin from San Diego, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I let my brother do the actual installation but it only look about 15 min. I did look at the website of the appliance manufacturer first and then came to this website. The cost of the part I needed was almost half as much as the other site. When I saw that someone with the same oven model number and had the same problem and was able to fix it, I decided to order here. It came quickly and my oven now works.

old blackened oven racks

  • Customer: Roger from Falls Church, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced old with new.

Oven would not heat to the degree you set it for

  • Customer: MARY from BIG LAKE, MN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I first took out the screw which held the bottom plate for the oven. then took the screws off the igniter unhooked the wires , took the new igniter hooked up the wires then put the screws back in put the bottom plate back in and turned the oven on to test it and it worked great.
All Instructions for the JGB918SEL3SS
31-45 of 327