JEW9627AAB Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Remove the screws from bottom of door to gain access to the hinge screws. Remove the bottom hinge screws and then open the door to gain access to the top hinge screws. CAUTION after removing the top screws close the door as far as possible while still griping the sides of the door. Pull up on the sides to remove the door from the stove. The springs are fully loaded if you have the door open all the way and try to lift up (like I did) the hinge will spring back and get your finger. Install the new hinge, put the door back into the oven, install all the screws and then remove the temporary rivet that comes installed in the new hinge.

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

The repair was really simple. I removed the 2 screws holding the baking element to the oven wall, pulled the element out about 2 inches, lifted the front of the element and pulled it out more to reach the 2 wires. I disconnected the two wires and reversed the procedure for installation, inserted the 2 screws and turned the power back on. The element works fine.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

Took door off oven (easy - 2 screws) then toolk door apart to install new glass - also easy and only about 6 screws and removak of 4 nuts involved. Service from PartsSelect was excellent and deklivery was fast. Would use them again.

Irwin C. Cobane

Turned breaker off at circuit panel.Opened top oven door. Removed 4 srews to lift up panel. Removed 4 hex head screws which held clock assembly in place. Unplugged 3 wiring connections. Plugged in new part and screwed back into place. Returned panel wih 4 screws. Switched breaker back on and smiled because it worked!!

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Turned off power,
Removed screws holding panel on,
Lifted off panel,
Unplugged wiring,
Removed 4 nuts holding clock assembly,
Replaced assembly with new one and secured with the 4 nuts,
Plugged in wiring,
Installed panel and screws
Turned on power,
Finished in less than 15 minutes.
Owner was all smiles and very happy!
Great service from PartSelect on ordering and delivery!

First I removed the two retaining screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches to disconnected the two wire leads. Removed element.

Note: Retain the two screws, the new element doesn't come with new screws.

To install new element simply reverse what you did to remove old element.

Easy sneezy
Four hands made it easier
1- removed 4 screws
2- had friend hold the whole assembly
3- removed the 2 screws holding clock assembly
4- removed the electronic connections
5- installed the new assembly with 2 scews
6- connected the electronic connections
7- reattached the with the 4 screws.

The extra pair of hands to hold it was helpful. This repair was very easy. It took less than 30 minutes and I saved $300 in repair costs.

Soooooooo easy- I am a house wife and did it- turned off power and unscrewed 4 screws and then a couple more and unplugged wires then replugged to new piece/part then screwed all screwss back in- EASY- woulda cost 400 for parts and labor

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

My son removed the switch panel and unpluged
the switch. Then he replaced it with the new
switch fasten back the panel and turned the
power back on and everythiing worked fine.

1. Remove four screws on metal panel between top and lower oven doors. Pull the panel forward. You may need to open the top door partially to ease removal of panel.
2. Reach behind panel and unplug wire connector from old switch.
3. With panel free, squeeze ears on old switch and push through opening to remove.
4. Insert new switch in to hole and push from front to seat the switch. BE CAREFUL NOT to mess with the ears--if you try to splay them out (to better seat the switch) the switch will come apart.
5. Hold the panel up to opening to connect the wire harness to the switch.
6. Realign the metal plate to holes for screws and insert screws. (You may have to twist and turn to get the panel lined up.)
Done!

carefully. there are many connectors to the board, and while they are pretty much color coded, and I had the wiring schematic, I had to put the new board next to the old, and remove and install each connector one by one. If I had removed all connectors and installed the new board, I would never have been able to reinstall the connections correctly.