JED8430ADB Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.

Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck

The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.


To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.

The end result (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label

1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1)
2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire)
3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2)
4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element)
5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element)
6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light)
7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.

Done.

This was a range top. i removed the 12 hex machine scews holding on the top, then removed the two star screws holding the old switch. there were fore wire that had fitted on tabs. Hooked them to the new swtch and reassembeld. Easy repair since i could lift the unit out without disconnecting main cables. Replacement range would have been oveer $1000. Psrt was under $40 and delivered in a matter of days.

I removed 4 screws and then lifted up the top it gave me access to the element I followed the direction that came with the element (very clear to follow) removed and installed the new element and it worked fine. Remember to unplug the stove if it is electric this is not in the instructions.

I couldn't figure out how to install the new fan knob because the D connection wasn't visible. I called the help line, and was connected to a very helpful person. She read some other reviews, and we determined that it is often necessary to remove additional parts of the previous knob before installing the new knob. I got a pair of pliers, and then had the nerve to really yank out the previous part remnants. The knob then attached with ease. I wouldn't have known what the problem was if I hadn't talked with this very helpful person.The key is--if you are installing the knob with the D connection, and you don't see a D receptacle in your old part, be brave and really exert force to pull the remaining pieces of the old knob.

Lift off blower vent cover. Lift out old filter. Clean walls and bottom of down draft using degrease soap and warm water. Dry. Discovered my grease filter will not install diagonally as shown in unit manual. Decided to drop into downdraft and put in front of fan suction. Found this left a gap at the top of fan suction that was not covered by the filter. Cut piece of wood 1 inch thick and width and length to drop down in the downdraft and lay on bottom. Set filter on top of wood in front of the fan suction. Verified that fan suction would pull filter tight against the opening by turning fan on and off. Put vent cover back over downdraft and told wife I was done.

I removed the center vent and inserted the filter...easy as pie...I went to your website and everything was there in an easy to follow way that even I could understand, my husband was totally impressed that I took care of it on my own....silly man.....it was so easy and delivery was extremely quick....so simple....thank you for making it so!!!!

1. Turned off power to trouble shoot the counter top range elements. 2. Raised the counter top up to work on it and slid two evenly placed wooden slats under the bottom of the housfor stability so it would not fall backdown into the counter top cut-out. 3. With a 1/4" nut driver removed the 10 hex-head screw that were holding the black glass top in place, pulled off the 4 . Control knobs and carefully removed the glass cover and carefully seet it aside in a safe place. 5. A visual inspection of the non working element showed that it had a burn out spot causing it not to heat. 6. Got the model number of the appliance and checked the internet for parts suppliers, chose parts elect because they had the part in stock and could overnight it for reinstallation the next day, part did arrive the next morning. A visual inspection show that it was the correct part and it would be a like for like swap out. 7. Prior to replacing the element check to see that the electrical power was still off at the circuit breaker, made a quick sketch of the wiring and identified the wires so that they would be reterminated at the same points. 8. Using the needle nose pliers pulled off the 4 stake on terminations. 9. Lifted out the 6" from the body of the unit , removed the 4 phillips screws holding parts what were to be transfered onto the new element. 10. Transfered parts onto the new element, reinstalled the element into the body of the unit, reinstalled the 4-stake-on wires to there appropriate terminals and verified with previous wiring sketch. 11. Reinstalled the glass top, 10 screw holding it in place and the 4-control knobs. 12 . Turned main power to the unit back on and turned on the replaced element, it work correctly, also checked the other 3 elements to make sure that they were working correctly. 13. When the unit had cooled, removed the wooden slats and lowered the counter top back into its cut-out making sure not to damage the glasstop. Job complete.

1) Take the old knob off by pulling straight up 2)Make sure to completely remove parts that may have stayed in the hole 3) push new Fan Knob on make sure to line up properly for the D. Don't be nervous if it looks a little different than the original factory. Much better design and this company shipped when promised. Very easy to see what you need and no hassles.

Removed stove top from the counter. Removed the glass frame and glass from the top. Removed the broken switch. Replaced with the new switch. Reassembled the unit and replaced it in the counter top.

One problem is the switch only fits in the space one way because of the first burner light. When installed the only way the knob fits on the switch stem makes the dot on the knob backwards. It now shows to be on medium speed when it is off.

This is not at hard as it seems; I followed the first guy's story and ignored the colors because mine were different. I did have to split the combined red wires, intimidating at first but once I split them it was down hill.
I did have to use the jumper wire.

Follow
Appliance Repaired: Jenn-Air Range/Stove/Oven/Hood

Model: cve3401b

Age Of Appliance: 5 - 10 years


Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.

Attach the wire from old switch terminal 5)to S2
Attach the wire from old switch terminal 4 to 4a
Attach the wire from old switch terminal 3 to terminal 4 on the new switch
Detach the 'compound' red wires from each other.
(The ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.

I attached common female connectors.
Attach the newly split single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.

One note:

Before you remove the four screws that hold the four swtiches down make sure that you use a sharpie and mark the switchbox location. You will notice that it is difficult to get them to line up again with the holes in the cooktop.

Thanks partselect.com!

Replaced the filter which required no tools.

First thing- I cut off power to the range. I then removed two screws to allow the cook top to be lifted. I marked the wiring and replaced the burner. Reapplied power and started cooking!

Used cooktop creme, oven cleaner and Mr. Clean sponges. After many days of working on the surface, we were able to remove 99% of the sauce.

Replaced original switch with replacement sent using the part finder tool of PartSelect. Everything went fine EXCEPT the replacement switch's H1 terminal did not correspond to the original switches H1 terminal. Proper terminal connections were as follows:

Original Replacement
----------- -----------------
L1 L1
L2 L2
P P
H1 HC
H2 H1

If you get H1 & HC reversed, controls will work correctly for each of the two cooktop elements individually, but when used together, both will turn on/off simultaneously whenever either switch closes.