JE2160SF03 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Remove the Glass rotating tray and replace the guide

I slid the original barrier screen out of the door and slid the new one back in. Very easy.

Light bulb repair was super easy once I got the out shell of the microwave off. The unanticipated problem was that I didn't realize the outer shell was secured with unusual "Security Torx" screws I have a couple star screw drivers but these were very unusual and could not find a proper screwdriver to remove them. I was able to force them lose with a small philips screwdriver and a pair of channel lock pliers. It took me quite a while to get the screws off this way but once I got them out and the outer shell off the microwave the light bulb replacement took less than 10 minutes. You should market the appropriate screwdriver to remove the outer microwave shell with any interior replacement parts.

Our microwave oven stopped working one day when the door was closed. The clock stopped showing, the light didn't come on when the door was opened, and the microwave couldn't be started. It acted as if it lost power. So, we did the usual things such as check the plug and the circuit; these were fine. I then removed the cover (need special bits called "Security Bits" which you can buy from Home Depot for $8.00). After removing the cover, be sure to discharge the capacitor (do a Google search to learn how to do this; fortunately, this microwave has a resistive circuit to ground to discharge the capacitor after about 30 minutes of being unplugged). After I discharged the capacitor, I checked the fuse and it was blown. So, I went to the store to buy a new fuse. When I replaced the fuse, and plugged the unit back into an outlet, the circuit blew as soon as I opened the door. This made me realize the faulty components were the "interlock" switches. These are relays (an electric switch) that cause the microwave to shut off when the door is opened and the inside lamp to illuminate when the door is opened. There are two "primary" switches and a "monitor" switch. I checked both primary switches for continuity (do a google switch for "checking interlock switch"). The one interlock switch was bad, meaning, it wasn't opening when it was suppose to. I ordered a replacement and also replaced the Monitor switch too (not sure why, I guess because it was only $6 to buy). After replacing the bad primary interlock switch, I put it all back together and we're working now!

I determined that one of the 4 micro switches that interface with the door was faulty. Ordered that part and replaced it. Had to remove the cover and front control panel (without removing any connections. Two philips screws hold the limit switch assembly to the bracket. After removing those screws, twist the whole switch assembly clockwise around the mounting frame and now you can remove the defective micro switch and replace it with a new one. This works for any of the 4 switches.

Was sent the wrong part but wanted a pizza so I installed it anyway and now the turntable turns a 6 rpm instead of 3 rpm. I figured that the part I ordered was no longer available and that was the best you could do for a replacement part. Replacement was easy- removed panel from bottom of microwave and filed the sharp edges from the side cutters, remove the one motor screw and motor. swapped the plug over and installed the new part. Replaced bottom panel, plugged in and cooked a pizza.

ordered the wrong part, (my mistake) new part took about 5 mins. no problem.

First remove tamper proof screws with vise - grips. Unplug capacitor ground out one side to discharge. Trouble shooting guide in a envelope in microwave, read it and did what it said. If 20 amp fuse is blown ( which it was ) replace primary and secondary switch and monitor switch. Switch assemble removes as a unit. Wires where hard to remove, you have to push on a release located on one side and pull to remove. Works great , only one switch was bad, but I did what the guide said. Draw a picture of wiring with color code so you do not mix up.

Ordering was simple, had pictures with descriptions so you have no problem finding the right part. Receive 3rd day after ordering. Motor Replacement was ever easy, remove screws holding bottom plate, unplug failed moter, remove mounting screws, remove failed motor - Install new motor and screws, plug in power cable - replace bottom pan, job done. As a side note, the original moter was 2-watts the replacement motor was 3-watts, more power means better motor, and this motor runs very quiet. Totally satisified.

Went through diagnosis of the product, unit was not heating, fund the following items that were faulty, Wave unit was n/g, transformer ohm specs were n/g, also replaced main board due to poor LED visibility, changed out diode and capacitor due to age of the unit, unit working perfectly now.

Simply replaaced broken cooking tray

Understand the type of fasteners GE used in the appliance require a BRISTOL type screwdrive.....unfortunatley this tool is not a part of my tool chest.....after running my four letter vocabulary and the use of thin blade screwdrive a a small vise grip plier was able to get the little bugers out.....thank goodness there was only four.

It took two people because we have built-in unit. The power plug was in cabinet above.First had to remove front frame in cabinet with Phillips screwdriver. Removed microwave from cabinet box (be sure to wear gloves, edges are very sharp). Then unscrew outer shell of microwave - easy process. Easy task to remove bulb/socket piece. We ordered part from Part Select - friendly service and the price is the best. Even with minimal shipping costs, the local prices were more than double. Important, it is a bulb and socket part.

First you have to get the "security screws" out with a pliers or vise grips then it was a snap, just replace the screws with 1/4 drive screws for the next time you have to get in there !

I just took off the cover, located the magnetron, replaced it and slapped everything back together and since then everything's been working pretty good.