JE1590B - Instructions

Turned out the issue was easily solved by replacing a single, inexpensive fuse.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.

Remove shroud . Two black philips head screws on side, and several on the back side. The two bottom screws on the back are special screws that a philips,straight slot, or hex screwdriver will not remove. I took a dremel tool with a thin metal grinding disc and created a straight slot through the centr of the two bottom screws. This allowed their removal with a straight slot screwdriver. Slide the cover straight back and off. The bulb is located on the top of the microwave connected with one screw. Replaced the bulb. It has two prongs that fit into the holder. Replace screw. Slide cover back on. It slides into retaining splines on 3 sides. Replace screws, and you're in business.

After watching a few youtube videos, I used a phillips SD to take controll pannel off to access the switches that sense when microwave door is closed. Swapped out all 3 switched and mocrowave works like new. $20 fix (shipping included)

My 8 year old daughter cleaned the inside of the microwave with enough water to rival a tsunami. Resulted in a clean microwave with a fried out motor that no longer revolved. Part came quickly. Took cover and bottom off to get to the part. One screw held it on and a plug. Removed those, put on new part and she was good to go. No trip to home depot today.

Unpluged power cord!! Removed front control panel to expose electronics (need to remove top horizontal vent cover to expose mounting hardware). Unplugged leads to control panel board. Removed magnetron with Tstat (3- phillip heads, need stubby). Installed new parts and control panel, plugged it in tested. Done.

The old fuse is perfectly good. The new ones arrived within a day.

Remove microwave outer cover. Turn on side & locate the upper & lower door switches. Better to replace in pairs even if one is ok. Remove the wire harness to each switch. Then replace switch and re connect the wire harness. Re attach outer cover
and test to see if that solved the problem. If so then well done!!

First I disconnected the power and opened the door. Then I removed the top screws holding the top vent louvers, then removed the screw at the top of the touch pad. The touch pad removes by sliding up slightly then tilting top out. I unscrewed two screws holding the door latch assembly. Press the tab to remove and replace switch. Reconnect wires, reseat latch mount by placing top bracket tab in place first, allign and secure with screws. Reseat touch pad by placing bottom tabs in first, tilt forward and press up to seat top tabs, secure with top screw. Secure vent louver screws, plug in and watch your microwave work again.

First went to Sears & got 'Security Torx' screw driver set for 8.99. Got set of 6 drivers that will fit on drill , this is what will open bottom 2 screws on rear of Microwave. The other screws on the microwave are Phillips head screws.
Then Unplug Unit put on firm surface and go to rear & side of unit & take off only screws on the perimeter of the case. Then take off screws on side of case. (only 1 side has screws) Then make sure you discharge your static electricity by touching some metal or using a grounding wire device (most of us Computer Tech's have). Then gently slide case off from under front tabs. Looking at the right side of the Microwave (front facing) you will see a plug sitting up with two screws. You will not see the bulb as it is inserted upside down in a cover which shields it. The bulb will have a 2 wire attachment shielded by a electric cable attachment. If you don't see it immediately, refer to the schematic under your case or refer to the diagram on this web site carefully. The bulb is there in plain view. After removing the two screws and re- attaching the power cable to the bulb. Re slide on the case cover and replace the screws. I kept my security Torx screws in place in case I ever need to go to a repair person for more serious service then replacing a bulb.

I broke the tray glass in the microwave cleaning it so this was a no brainer. The best part of this was the PartSelect experience. I ordered the part on the 30th of December and received it on 3 Jan!!! I have used PartSelect before for fridge repair and had the same experience.

1. turned off electricity -- unplugged the unit 2. removed 3 screws on top of top vent, removed vent screen then I located the little white cylindrical fuse and popped it out with a table knife. Then I popped in the new fuse. Replaced the vent screen and screws -- plugged in the appliance and it is working again.

The cabinet must be removed. Lamp is not accessable from inside the oven. They tried to make it difficult by putting two Torx screws in the back. All the others are Phillips head.

Remove the cabinet screws then slide the cabinet off toward the back of the unit. Lamp is on the upper left looking at the unit from the back. The oval lamp base is secured by one Phillips screw. The connector was slightly difficult to remove from the lamp base but it came loose by spreading the plastic connector with a small screwdriver. Needlenose pliers would probably work.

Install the new lamp, replace the cabinet and it's done.

The repair man said this would not be covered under my home warranty and that it would cost too much for him to fix, so he showed me what to do, I ordered the part and did it myself. I just had to gently pry the tabs up on the inside of the door panel using a putty knife. Once the latch is visible you unhook it from a clip and a little spring. Attached the spring onto replacement latch and snap back into place, snap the tab of the door panel back in place and your done.

Unplug the unit before servicing. Need phillips screwdriver. Open door. Use step ladder to access and remove 2 small screws from top of the room air diffuser at top of unit. Slide diffuser slightly to the left to align the diffuser's plastic tab on the left side to rotate toward you. (The wires for the front control panel are at the far left side of this difuser, but difuser is slotted for easy removal). Once the difuser is removed you will see 1 screw at the top that secures the pannel cover on the left side of the unit. Remove screw and slide this panel slightly up and out. This exposes the plastic frame that holds the upper and lower door switches. To locate the door switches and observe how they work, close and open the door and watch the door (bayonets) open and close the micro switches. Do the (red) buttons on top of the switches move up and down when the door bayonets push and release? If the buttons do not "pop" up when opened the switch is defective. The switch frame is secured with 2 screws. Remove screws and rotate the unit out for easy access to the micro switch(s). The internal (spring?) on my unit that is suposed to allow the red (visible) button on top of the switch to "pop" up when the door is opened was broken. Carefully pry the switch outward while being careful to lift the plastic holder-piece that holds the switch in place. Be careful, there is a small pin on the frame, so rotate the switch OUT toward you while lifting (carefully) the plastic holder-piece (you will see it on top of the switch). You can use an ohm meter to test the continuity of the switches. But if the buttons don't "pop" they are defective. Replace switch and reassemble.

No actual repair was necessary. However I do want to thank PartSelect for sending a replacement so quickly.