JE1340GA01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Remove microwave outer cover. Turn on side & locate the upper & lower door switches. Better to replace in pairs even if one is ok. Remove the wire harness to each switch. Then replace switch and re connect the wire harness. Re attach outer cover
and test to see if that solved the problem. If so then well done!!

First I disconnected the power and opened the door. Then I removed the top screws holding the top vent louvers, then removed the screw at the top of the touch pad. The touch pad removes by sliding up slightly then tilting top out. I unscrewed two screws holding the door latch assembly. Press the tab to remove and replace switch. Reconnect wires, reseat latch mount by placing top bracket tab in place first, allign and secure with screws. Reseat touch pad by placing bottom tabs in first, tilt forward and press up to seat top tabs, secure with top screw. Secure vent louver screws, plug in and watch your microwave work again.

The most difficult thing was removing the star security screws Both Home Depot and Lowes have tools to do this. The repair was a piece of cake, may have taken 15 min. Unplug 120v, remove case, bulb, replace and reassemble. GE doesn't want consumers fooling around inside the case, so be careful.

I unplugged it, removed the outer shell with torque bits and a screwdriver, drained the main capacitor, and began debugging the circuit with my fluke multimeter, found the bad primary interlock, googled the part number, ordered the part, received it in 2 days, replaced the interlock in about 2 minutes, and put the cover back on. Fixed. Saved me about $200 over buying a new unit and was grateful for partselect's great service.

-Keith Packard

First and most important - unplug AC power 24 hours before service.

I removed the vent cover above the main door, then I removed the screw which holds the control panel in place, unplugged the main connector on the control panel so I would have enough room to work, removed grounding screw from the DIODE ASSY, pulled connector off the CAPACITOR with pliers, installed new DIODE ASSY.

After installation of DIODE and the control Panel, I plugged in the AC power and allowed the CAPACITOR to charge - this takes about an hour or so, then test. Works perfect!

None of the manuals or schematic diagrams gave a clue as to where the damn bulb was and messing around in the guts of a microwave is not for the faint of heart. Once I found it the rest was easy -- take out the old bulb and put in the new one. Be careful reassembling the case -- microwave leakage is not good.

Removed screws holding outer shell. Pushed in door handle to identify faulty switch. Ordered part. Pryed switch out with screw driver and unplugged. reinstalled new switch. Presto. BUT... I did NOT use both hands while working on the microwave. I did not release the energy from the capacitor or whatever holds the killer amperage even when unplugged. It would be advisable to do this first. I did not because it seemed complicated, so I was EXTREMELY CAREFUL about not touching anything else inside the unit. I used one hand only so if I did touch something I would not get juiced through the chest. It was a piece of cake repair, but I would not go deeper without doing the discharge routine.

Removed chassis cover, traced power (hot good through fuse), neutral was interrupted though at the flame sensor. Replaced flame sensor. Replaced chassis cover, microwave works.

Had to remove outer cover (special screws involved). Found the correct part at PartSelect.Com and it arrived 3 days later as promissed.

This oven has diffcult electrical connections at switch to get disconnected. I found it easier with the sw loose and in hand so that the connectors can be released with a small screwdriver.

One has to this in order to test the part wirh an ohm meter. I found the sw did not close but remained open and thus caused the oven not to function.

Removing interconnect switch is tricky but not difficult.

Outer cover replacement is not as easy as it should be, especially the sides.

All is well and working.

Microwaves are simple devices if you are know how to read and understand schemetic diagrams.

My repair went very well and it saved me from buying a new microwave oven. When the oven first started malfunctioning i thought i would have to spend the money i really didn't have on a new microwave oven. furtunately the probelm was easily diagnosed and easliy repaired. it cost me under ten dollars for the part i needed. the microwave works like brand new.

First remove all screws holding on outer metal casing of microwave. Next remove the back and bottom metal pieces. You will then be able to pull aside the outer casing so you can access the door switches. Check each switch with an ohm meter in both the open position and with the switch closed. If the ohm meter reads the same in both the open and closed position, the switch is bad. Check the top switch first. Replace switch and reassemble. Cheap fix for a costly microwave. Great customer service at Parts Select!

Pretty simple but required buying a set of security bits (#68549) from Harbor Freight for $7.00 to remove the outer cover of my GE JES2051SNSS microwave. At first glance I thought the cover would remove by going towards the front of the microwave, but it ended up just needing a tug to the rear. I like this site because they have pictures of the exploded appliances that show what your getting into.

Disassembled the front cover, found slow blow fuses, then replaced with microwave fuses 250V-20Amp. Utilized a few fuses to pin point the problem, Microwave functions all worked except the express feature, made an assumption after using a tester that it was the high voltage capacitor and the diode that attaches. Replaced both, plugged in and tested. Worked! reinstalled the unit. Sucessfull for the past month.

Everything worked on the display light inside worked but when you closed the door and set time it would start counting down but not heating nor would the turntable turn. Started reading troubleshooting chart and first thing I did was removed the cover and checked door switches and found primary door switch wasn't working so I ordered a new one installed it and it worked. Anyone doing this has to be very careful because of the stored energy in the capacitor is strong enough to kill.
My micro is only 2 years old so I was hoping it wasn't anything major.

I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.