JDE1000A Jenn-Air Dryer - Instructions

Actually, I was the handy man. First I removed the front panel. Then I used 3 - 2x4s to hold up the drum. Then I slipped the belt around the center of the drum ,motor,and around the pulley at the bottom of the dryer. That was it, and then I put it back together. My wife was amazed and proud that I did it without calling for help! No Problem!

I received the part I ordered immediately and the included instructions made installation a snap. Thank you for your help. I would not hesitate to order from your company again.

I noticed my dryer was heating, but not tumbling. I"m a 53 year old single female, and my dryer I bought used 3 years ago. I had no clue what the problem was. I texted my brother and said, "it heats but doesn't tumble - is it shot?" He texted back "probably the drive belt - pop the top and see." So I popped the top, and sure enough, the belt was broken. So I googled "diy + dryer + drive belt" and watched a You Tube video. I then drove all over town looking for a belt, and the only place that carried it had closed at noon (saturday). So I googled " appliance parts + dryer and came to this site, ordered the part and it was delivered in two days.
I borrowed a nut driver from my brother, removed the front of the dryer, used a plastic cup to prop up the drum. I put the belt on the drum, being sure to place the ribbed side down, looped through the pulley and onto the motor, removed the cup, put the front back on, dropped the top, replaced the lint trap and the two screws holding that in place, turned the dryer on and voila! All done.

Unplug dryer

Pick the top up at the front and swing up. Inside each side of the front is a screw to remove. Do not forget to unhook the door switch wires. Pull the drum. Push belt off as you remove the drum. Works better to reach in at the lower right and take the belt off of the tighener first.

After you clean out any lint in area unplug the wires from the motor and snap off the hold down clamp on the back bearing.

The blower needs to be released fromt he shaft. The snap ring in front of the blower needs to be taken off. This can be done with a screw driver by prying off the flat spot on the shaft. However, a snap ring pliers would be better. The front of the blower housing must come off as the blower must come off. There is a snap ring behind the blower that must come off also.

The biggest problem I had was removing the front motor bearing housing from the plastic blower housing. It is easy once you see that the front bearing housing is held in by four tabs in the plastic housing. By rotating the front bearing housing 90 degrees you will be able to pull it out.

From there just reverse your action. The belt went on ok. I found by putinng the belt on the drum and the motor drive pully first I was able to reach in an put the belt over the tighener.

Real easy I have resurrected my dryer may times so this was easy to replace the belt and idler pulley

Hinged open the top of the dryer. While dryer was running I tapped on the thermostat. The heater came back on. This verified the problem. Unplugged the thermostat, unscrewed it and replaced it.

I opened the top then i did change the heater element kit only one screw out and finaly replace the temperature switch, again one screw out was realy ease was my first time,the professional online help my, every one can do it thanks i appreciate your help.H.E.K.P/N AH2162280 - temp/switch p/n 31001449.

my ex husband took the top and front of dryer off and removed the drum and belt. he pulled off the worn roller and replaced it with the new one. we put the drum in backwards and had to turn it around but all went well and the dryer is quiet again!!!

Pulled the broken blower wheel off the motor rod and replaced the new blower wheel on it. Need to make sure to place a small amount of grease to the motor rod. This will help slide the blower wheel on the motor rod easier.

I (1)unplugged the unit from the power source. (2)popped the top loose at the front corners with a screwdriver. (3)removed the single 1/4 inch hexhead screw holding the thermal limiter mount from the top of the heating element box with a 1/4 inch nutdriver. (4)removed the two wires connected to the limiter. (5)removed the two 1/4 inch hexhead screws that mount the limiter to the holder. (6)replaced the old limiter with the new one. (7)replaced the two limiter holding screws. (8)replaced the wires on the same terminals as they were removed from. (9)removed the screw holding the heating element in the box. (10)removed the element from the box by moving it to the rear slightly, lifting it up on the side the mounting screw is on and withdrawing the holding tab on the other side from the hole it passes through. (11)removed the thermal fuse holder by pulling upward on the thermal fuse mount until the thermal fuse and mount released and lifted them out of the side of the element box together. (12)removed the wires from the thermal fuse. [[>note< wires are threaded through thermal fuse mount]] (13)reconnected wires to themal fuse. (14)there are no bolts holding the fuse to it's mount, so I used a piece of masking tape to hold the fuse in place temporarily while aligning it with the mounting holes in the side of the element box, and snapped the mount, and the fuse into place with a downward motion while holding pressure on the mount in the direction of the box then removed the tape. (15)replaced the heating element into the box by threading the mounting tab into the hole it passes through while holding the element slightly to the rear of the box and lowering into place. (16)replaced the screw that holds the heating element in the box with the 1/4 inch nutdriver. (17)located the thermal limiter and its mount on the tab over the top of the heating element box, and replaced the mounting screw with the 1/4 inch nutdriver. (18)made sure all wires were secured in the clearance clips provided lowered the top and snapped it into place with equal downward pressure on the front of the top. (19)plugged in the power cord. (20)Tested machine (FIN)

I opted to remove front, top and back panels. This is best done with dryer laying on it's back so drum remains in position. Hold panels and pieces in place with masking tape (2") You should block up the dryer so you don't damage the gas pipe. I opted to total shop vac out the piece and lubricate the rollers and tension pulley. I made more in change than the belt cost!

Overall an easy repair. Belt came with diagram for easy threading the belt.

Took off top and front. Removed belt and pulled drum straight out. Unclipped the rollers. And noticed the rod that holds the roller was worn out badly. Good thing I bought the kit. Because it came with everything needed and was cheaper then buying the rollers seperate. Only hard part was putting the new mounting on for the rod. They are not predrilled. So does take some force. Put everything back togetther and dryer is working like new. fyi you can also clean out your air duct of lint buildup when doing this project. Had a repair man come over 2x in past year and each time he would replace the roller and charge me $150 each time. I spent $300 on that bozo. When i could have ordered the parts myself for a fraction of the cost. This was well worth and easy to do.

removed screws on back plare and replaced heater element. Thank you very much foe your quick delivery of the part I ordered. I was reall;y schocked to see how fast the part arrived. I will recommend your site to anyone who needs parts like I did,.
Thany you Very Much,
Alan Brooks

First I disconnected power to dryer. Next step was to lift top of cabinet and support upright. Then I removed door switch and 2 screws that hold front panel on and set front panel aside. Next was to reach under drum by belt tightener and remove drum drive belt from tightener and pulley of drive motor. Then slowly remove drum from cabinet . Once removed, I could remove old glides that were worn out and install the new ones. Before putting everything back together, I gave the cabinet a thorough vacuuming to remove all lint built up inside, checked electrical connections on heating unit and oiled back drum support rollers and belt idler roller. Next just reassembled everything in reverse order as was disassembled. Plugged cord back in and tested unit to make sure everything sounded good before drying any clothes.

I suspected (correctly) that the thermostat was malfunctioning so I ordered the Heating Element Kit. This repair would have taken less than 15 minutes if I would not have dropped one of the sheet metals screws in the back of the dryer when re-installing the heating element.