JDB4000AWS Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

I ordered and replaced both the door gasket (easy) and inner door seal (difficult) to try and correct a leak during operation. The door gasket was easily replaced. However, the inner door seal was a bit more trouble. After removing the inner door I found that the old inner seal needed to be removed and surfaces thoroughly cleaned of old build-up of dishwasher soap residue, in order to allow the sticky back tape side of door seal to properly stick to the door. There also was a plastic cover over the wire bundle that needed to be cleaned. The inner door seal was the exact length, so proper positioning of the sticky back was very important.
Upon reassemly the leak still existed and I was unable to correct the leak. Further inspection indicated that the basic tub/body of the dishwasher might be slightly distorted due to age and may not create seal with door seal as originally designed.
I guess I need to find a new dishwasher, at this point.
A word to the wise: Check to see if the tub/body is still in good condition.

Had this problem before and the part was simply a plastic latch which cost less than 5 dollars. That part has been discontinued and the latch is now the entire assembly. Although the part costs more, the repair is much simpler. Remove the screws from the inside of the door. Have to use hex nut screwdriver. Remove the panel and the assembly is right at the top. Unhook the assembly from the two (2) prongs. TURN OFF the electricity or touching the prong will bite you. Had to pry the latches off the prongs with a screwdriver as the fit is tight. Latch the new assembly on and rescrew the door panel and the job is done. Very easy and cheaper than a repairman coming out and charging $150.00

Remove the racks top and bottom. The Station D seals are at the far back on the tube that supplies water to the top and middle spray heads. Unsnap the old one and snap in the new - it only goes one way! This will repair the seal aroound the tube that supplies the middle sprayer and restore pressure to all 3 heads. Repalcing the screen accumulator is harder. you need a torx driver. remove the little thumb nut on the bottom sprayer and remove the sprayer. Then remove the tube where you just replaced the D station. (You of course could have done this earlier if you were doing both repairs) then 6 screws on the impeller housing. Now remove the 1 torx screw on the impeller and pull the impeller up and off. Remove the 3 screws on the cover and 2 screws on the accumulator. Clean all the old food scraps that are clogging up the works and reassemble in reverse order. Washer is working again!!

Snapped on new wheels

I separated the door from the interior door liner by unscrewing the "torx" screws along the edge of the door interior (about 12 screws). I unscrewed the circuit board cover and removed the old circuit board and disconnected the wiring harnesses that attached to the circuit board. I reconnected the wiring harnesses to the new circuit board, put the circuit board back into its holder and cover and reattached the door liner to the door. I flipped the house circuit breaker for the dishwasher power on and turned the dishwasher on. It works like a charm!

Ordered replacement basket online at much better price than available localy. When I recieved it discovered that it did not include the handle, but was suprised to see it labeled as "Genuine Maytag Parts" ( I realy expected a knock-off replacement part for the price difference). I was able to remove tha handle from the old basket and install it on the new one. Job done. No problem

First I removed the Torx screws holding on the door cover (two of these screws also hold the latch assembly). You don't need to completely remove the cover but just keep it slightly separated by hand as you do the work. I attempted to remove the connections to the two switches on the latch assembly but this proved to be very difficult even after applying lubricant so I changed my approach. Since only the latch handle was broken I decided to remove the two switches from the existing latch assembly and attach them to the new latch assembly rather than disconnecting the wiring harness. There are two clips holding each of the switches and by pulling them back you can remove the switch. After this was done I was ready to put in the new latch assembly. I removed the two switches off the new latch assembly and have kept them in case a switch happens to fail in the future. I placed the new latch assembly into the dishwasher door and then pushed the wiring harness (with the old switches attached) into the new latch assembly. Take note that there is a "detent" in the switch that must be pushed in as you slide the switch into place or otherwise it won't seat properly. After putting the two switches back in place I closed the cover and tightened the two screws that hold the latch assembly first and then tightened the remainder of the screws. It took a full 30 minutes but that included changing my approach after the harness wouldn't separate easily from the switches.

The repair stories on PartSelect.com told me exactly what to do.

First, I checked the inside of the door and confirmed that the inside panel of the door was held in place with about 10 torx screws.

Second, I went out and bought a set of torx screwdrivers.

Third, I TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE DISHWASHER AT THE BREAKER BOX! Safety first!

Fourth, I removed the screws and gently lifted the inside panel of the door, and then gently lifted the broken door latch assembly out of its slot. (There were no more screws to remove, because the latch assembly is held in place by two of the door screws.) Two sets of wires, one white and the other black, were connected to the latch assembly by plug-in connectors.

Fifth, I unplugged the wires from the broken latch assembly. The clips in the plug were very tight, so I used a dishtowel to hold onto the latch assembly. I found that gave me a better grip.

Sixth, I plugged the wires onto the new latch assembly, and then slipped the latch assembly back into the slot.

Seventh, I replaced the inside door panel, and replaced in the 10 torx screws.

Finally, I turned on the power at the breaker box, closed the door, and turned on the dishwasher. It ran perfectly!

I would like tyo add that I had ordered an unnecessary part by mistake. I called the return number, and the person who answered was extremely helpful. She gave me the return authorization number and I put the part in the mail. Ten days later, I received an email from PartSelect.com confirming that the part had arrived and that my account had been credited.

The entire process was easy and pleasant. Anybody can do this! Just make sure to shut off the power at the breaker box before you start on the job.

The web site was great in finding the part that was required. Once the parts was received ( it took four days to et the part ths was very fast) it took only 30 mins. to complete the repair. I had to remove all the screw on the door, lift up the inside door cover and remove the handle latch assembly. I removed the two mico switches from the old handle and installed them into the new handle. I replaced the new assembly and replaced the inside door cover and replaced the screws. This was a very easy repair.
I had called a local repair shop to see what it would cost to repait the dishwasher. They told me that it would cost $60.00 to come to the house to see what was wrong with the unit. Next they would charge $75 per hour (minimum of $75 if it was less than one hour of repair time) for the repair plus the parts. THis repair cost me less than $30 plus 30 minutes of my time. Great savings

Stuck new wheel on, time to find and order part on partselect 2 min, time to open package and install part 1 min.

Total job 3min.

First I removed the lower spray arm by removing the middle retainer nut. Next remove the 3 screws holding the outer shroud in place. Next remove 6 screws holding the water pump top housing in place. Under this housing you will find the impeller which is retained by a screw. Check the impeller closely for cracks especially near the center hex portion of the impeller. Replace if you have any doubt of it's integrity. Next remove the lower pump housing that has the screen material in the center. What I found was the nylon part that attaches to the shaft of the motor was stripped so the impeller would spin in it's normal direction ( counterclockwise) but under the load of water it would not. So I ordered a new impeller and seal kit with a metal sleeve and chooper blade. Follow the instructions provided in the new kit a reassemble accordingly.

I had to remove the 4 screws holding the toe panel. Then I had to take out the one screw holding the floater switch housing in place. It snapped open to release the floater and that just lifted out. I put the new float in and snapped the new housing on. I put the screw back in to hold the housing in place attached the two wires to the switch and put the toe panel back on. It was all very easy to do and my first home repair went very well. thank you.

I went to PartSelect and found the parts pictorial. A replacement motor was listed for 3 series of the dishwasher. The series can be identified by the first 2 digits of the dishwasher serial number. Mine was 22 so I needed parts for the series 20 dishwasher.

According to the pictorial it looked like the motor seals were included with the replacement motor. When the motor arrived, I found the seals were not included. I called PartSelect and they shipped the seals to me with free overnight delivery.

I had no trouble disassembling the wash manifold and spray parts using the instructions provided with the replacement motor and the instructions from the Maytag repair manual that I found online. The motor is removed from the inside of the tub.... very nice. You don't need to remove the dishwasher from under the counter in order to get at the motor.

I made a mental note of the orientation of the faulty motor before I removed it. I installed the replacement motor with the same orientation along with the wash parts. The dishwasher worked successfully.

Thank you PartSelect.

1) Turn off water
2) Place receptacle to catch water before removing water fitting.
3) Disconnect water tube from valve.
4) Remove screws from mounting skirt connecting washer to counter/woodwork.
5) Slide washer out of slot paying attention to water tubing and electrical wiring. Ours was installed in such a manner to allow removal of water tube with a little flexing. Wiring as a simple 110 plug so simply unplugged.
6) Tilt washer onto back.
7) Connections for element will be close to floor one washer on back.
8) Gently pull electrical connections from heater element to remove.
9) Remove nuts holding element in place.
10) Tilt washer upright. (May require second person here to help balance washer)
11) Open door and remove heater element. There are two clips holding to bottom that require a little dexterity to navigate.
12) At this point simply reverse the above instructions to reinstall. The insulation around the housing was a little tricky to navigate while sliding the washer back into place. It has a tendency to hang up on the woodwork.

After repairing this dishwasher 5 times during the past 8 years this one was real easy: Open door, unscrew inside cover and carefully move over to one side. Unplug soap dispenser, unscrew soap dispenser and remove. Fit new dispenser, reconnect it, put inner cover back in its place and secure it with the retained screws and you are back in operation. Hans.