JDB2100AWS Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

The repair is very simple (I had repaired the left side last year), so I knew how to replace the assembly part. I removed the rack by removing the clips on the runner ends. Then I unscrewed the 3 screws holding the assembly to the rack, removed the adjuster lever and removed the broken part (the roller cracked around the screw) the replacement part now is a ratchet instead of a screw. I popped in the new part and put the lever back in place, put the screws back in and placed the rack back on the runner and re-inserted the runner clips. I will never buy another maytag--supposedly a high end unit that we purchased for a hefty price tag but I have done nothing but replace parts. Thank goodness for Parts Select--I find my part from the diagrams, place my order and in just a couple of days I have the part. Best of all no $80 fee just to diagnose the problem and then labor costs on top of marked-up of parts prices. I love Parts Select!!
Thank-you.

I could not reach the heater element nuts from under the dishwasher so had to pull out the dishwasher. I removed the screws around the front of the dishwasher and pulled it about half way out before the water inlet pipe and the electrical wires stopped me. I shut off the water, unhooked the copper pipe, and unhooked the electrical wires (shut off circuit breaker first). Pulled the dishwaser out so I could remove the element nuts and wires to the element. Removed the old element and installed the new one - the old nuts would not fit. I went to a local appliance parts store and found that my element is no longer made. I had the correct replacement element but you need to order the nuts also. Luckily, the local store had a small brass nut that worked. Reattached the electrical wires to the element, pushed the dishwasher half way in, reattached the water inlet and electrical wires, pushed the dishwasher all the way in and scewed back into the cabinets. All is well now and the dishwasher is working much better.

Symptoms: our dishwasher stopped working and the door would not close. My first response was to change the door switch, since it was closing really hard and the switch was much cheaper than anything else on the list of parts.

Well, that failed to correct the problem. After double checking all the connections and having a door that now closed much better, the dishwasher still didn’t work. The circuit was good so it must be a bad fuse, relay, or power supply right? Didn’t find any, but while I was looking I found some testing instructions taped inside one of the panels and half way down the page it said, “If control fails to perform as described, replace control.” Well it definitely didn’t perform and one test caused some panel lights to come on so I knew I had power to the control panel.

I swallowed hard and shelled out the cash. The hardest part about replacing the control panel was figuring out that the outside door panel was attached to it and after removing the 3 screws at the bottom, you can just pull up on the outside door handle and the whole thing comes off. Use the same screws and adjust for a snug fit. One other thing is that the control board has a slider to lock the ribbon cable firmly in place.

I’ve included one page on the testing instructions which helped identify the problem. Good luck, Mr. Fixit.

Ist Repaired a hole in a rubber hose under the sink. 2nd Removed the 10 foot drainage hose with a regular screw driver (1 clamp at each end of the hose).
3rd Removed the insulation and replaced with the new after disinfecting the entire top and sides of the dishwasher with bleach. This eliminated all bad odor etc. only had to remove 2 plastic brads, 1 on each side of the unit.

Done and no leaks.

The spring mechanism is on the side, so you have to pull the dishwasher out onto the floor. To do that, you have to remove the floor molding (preferably without breaking it) and remove the base coverings (painted metal plates on the bottom of the washer. Unscrew the side gasket plates on the side of the dishwasher (just inside of the door) where it attaches to the cabinet and the screws in the braces at the top (inside the door) where it attaches to the counter top. Now you will be able to slide the washer forward to look at the sides where the door springs are. Depending on the floor, you may have to raise the washer's front feet. They screw up. As you pull the washer forward be careful to not mess up the insulation which drapes over the top and sides. You only need to come out 1/3 of the way to see the sides where there is a plastic wheel at the forward bottom corner. As you move the door up and down you can see the hook where the cable goes and further up the side you can see several notches where the spring goes. Hook the cable and bring it around the wheel and attach it to the spring. To reinstall, just follow these directions backwards. Good luck.

After finding out that the impeller shaft was stripped (plastic) I quickly found the correct replacement on partselect.com by using my model number.
You do not have to remove the dishwasher, if you know what is wrong. But, throw the breaker switch and turn off the water! After removing the spin washer arm, Undo all of the torx screws and pull out the plastic filter looking plates along with the center plastic water jet. This jet provides water for the upper washer assembly. You may have to pop that upper assembly out to protect it from damage.
The black impeller should just pull out if the plastic shaft is stripped. Otherwise, unscrew the small torx head and remove the impeller. You can remove the blade at this time and unscrew the plastic shaft by unthreading it while keeping the motor from spinning. (I shoved a screw driver underneath the dishwasher through the motor. Also the motor is just floating on the rubber gasket and can easily pulled out to accomplish this task. It's heavy and has a plug attached to it. You'll see where you can shove the screw driver. This comes in handy while installing the new shaft, because it is metal. Which is a great, long awaited upgrade for the Maytag Quiet Series. Once you find which shaft to use, (which correct inner thread, course or fine), install it with the great directions that come with the part. Putting all the stuff together is not as bad as one would think, there is only one way for it to go back together. After installation is complete, turn water and breaker switch back on. Run a cycle and listen for the washing cycle against the wall of the washer. If you cannot tell the difference, you can unscrew the white lock arm and insert it into the door. Turn it on and watch how a dishwasher works. Get ready to get a little wet. Towels!

disconnected unit (electrical, water, and waste) un mounted from countertop, removed from under countertop, unscrewed hose clamb, cut off wire tie. Attached new hose and wire tie (not included) reversed above steps. Done in about 15 minutes

I unscrewed the door panel. removed the plastic cover protecting the dispenser. unscrewed the dispenser (6 screws). I removed the old dispenser and put the new one on and put it all back together. It was pretty easy.

remove shelf install ball bearings in new ball cage click ball cage into slides re-install shelf piece of cake make sure you have all the ball bearings when ordering the cage they dont come with it 4/cage

This isn't a how to fix it....it's what part was bad. I had originally contacted the local Maytag repair center and the owner swore up and down that our problem had to be the thermostat and not the heater. He said he had only replaced maybe 5 heaters in 15 years. But our heater looked like heck, with hard water deposits and all, and it wasn't that old, but we went ahead and ordered the thermostat from PartSelect, which came in a day. The problem wasn't the thermostat, so we ordered the heater from PartSelect (again, only one day delivery) and our dishwasher is working again. The heater coil actually had a hole in it from some sort of corrosion. My 18-year-old son did the repair job in a jiffy.

Unpluged the electric, Disconnected the water line and the drain line. Removed the dishwasher. Removed and installed the new water inlet valve and the float switch. This was a very simple repair. Reinstalled the dishwasher and connect
the water and drain line. Pluged in the power line. Turned the dishwasher on and it worked perfect. Thank you for the correct parts.

All that was broken on the old detergent dispenser was the door but the door can not be ordered without buying the whole detergent/rinse aid assembly. When I got the new item I just removed the old door and replaced it with the new door that I had taken off the new one. I still have the new detergent/rinse aid assembly that I can keep if I need to change it in the future.

The bottom broke out of the original basket just after one year of use. The manual showed a different basket than what came with the dishwasher, so I ordered it instead. I like the split/fit even though it is just a little smaller than the original. The sides lean out instead of straight up and down like the old broken one, so more silverware fits in it. It is handy to take apart and position one at the front and the other at the side of the rack so there is more room for larger pots and pans.

Removed the basketsThen removed the bottom spray arm with nut driver. Removed the cover and spray tower assembly. removed screw holding broken impeller. Replaced and reversed process. Really easy. As an aside. This dishwasher has been a major disappointment. lots of things not holding up. Didn't go cheap when buying it. Nice to find a site with good prices for parts

First I removed two bottom plates (two screws on each) Then I pulled dishwasher out about six inches. That's as far as it would go because I did not disconnect the water and drain hoses. That was enough to remove the broken cable and collect the disabled spring. I then reattached the new cable to the spring and reworked them into position. NOTE: There is a right and left cable and spring set-up. I used the "good" side as a guide. I then pushed the dishwasher back into place and replaced the two bottom plates.