JCB2389GRS Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determining what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.

My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this one. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)

Removed the Hex head small screw at the middle back of the Back wall of the fridge above the top shelf. Removed the 2 small Hex Head screws that go into the of the Plastic cover upwards into the top roof of the fridge.
I ended up with an extra screw so I dont know what I did...
The hard part is pushing up on the two tabs, one on each side in the extreme back on the bottom of that white plastic cover. You have to pull the coverwhile releasing the tab (locks) by pushing UP. The Right side was easier, I got that side to release and drop down. But the left side took some pressure on the tab with a fat screwdriver.
Then you have to kinda of Bend the cover to get it to slide out...

Then take out the 2 phillips screws above the light bulbs. the left side one is tricky, need long skinny driver.

Drop assembly down and on the back right is the ADP board. Mine was a bare board but the replacements are enclosed in white plastic that fit in place just fine.

Pry connector off of the board carefully and drop new plastic circuit board case in and replace.

Put a thermometer in a glass of water. unplug fridge for 10 minutes and then plug it in. Give it a few hours..
Everything seems fine.
A steady 39 degrees with the Fridge control at a few ticks right of middle.
I have no idea what it was before my troubles...
But 36 - 41 seems to be what you need.

I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

Installed new ice maker. It was easy - loosen two screws and unplug old wire harness. Put new unit in place. Did not realize new unit would not come with wire harness, but transferred old one to new ice maker (easy) and, "voila" some ice in 24 hours -- much ice since then. I am a 68 year old woman and it was "sort of fun" doing this job.

The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace holding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.

1. Unplugged fridge.
2. Unplugged wire harness from valve.
3. Disconnected water supply from valve.
4. Removed valve from fridge chassis
5. Removed plastic tube from valve (supplies ice maker).
6. Removed old fitting from plastic tube and attached to new valve.
7. Attached new valve to fridge (only need 1 screw)
8. Attached water supply to valve
9. Reattached wiring harness
10. Turned on water supply, checked for leaks
11. Powered on fridge.
12. Enjoy working ice maker.

filled both ice cube trays up with water and placed in the freezer.. within hours my ice oproduction was doubled! no more warm cocktails : )

I didn't know what the plastic was - just that it was unappetizing. Reading other posts, it must have been the teflon coating. The refrigerator is 13 years old and reading other posts, I guess I'm lucky it lasted that long.

My boyfriend did the repair and here is his story:

The first ice maker we received was cracked on one corner. Not knowing how it got that way, I was concerned that there might be additional internal damage and that the unit wouldn’t work properly. Part Select was contacted and a replacement unit was sent with no difficulty.
As other reviewers have said, the replacement was quite easy, taking less than half an hour. The only tools I needed were a screwdriver and a nut driver. To begin, unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the ice maker. Loosen, but do not remove, the two top attachment screws. Then remove the bottom screw. Lift the unit up off the top screws and remove the water inlet hose at the top right. It’s probably a good idea to have a container handy to catch the small amount of water that comes out, but you’ll need a third hand for this.
The electrical wiring harness is very short and may be tricky to disconnect. On my refrigerator there is a round vinyl connector that plugs into a receptacle on the back wall of the freezer compartment directly behind the ice maker. This was removed with no difficulty (accidently, actually). Once the unit is out of the refrigerator you can remove the connector from the ice maker by using a screwdriver to depress the latch tab that is visible in a window in the unit housing. When installing the connector in the new unit make sure it is fully seated. Next, reconnect the round vinyl connector to the receptacle on the back wall of the freezer compartment. This was the worst part of the whole procedure. You have to support the unit close to the back of the freezer (due to the short harness) with one hand while inserting the connector with the other. This requires both arms in a confined space. The first time I did it I apparently didn’t get a good electrical connection on one end of the harness, and it didn’t work. Because the connectors are directly behind the ice maker I had to remove the unit and re-install it, but it was much quicker the second time, less than 10 minutes.
Once the connectors are in place put the water inlet hose into the opening at the top right. You may need to re-use the retaining clip from the old unit for this. Slide the two top mounting ears down between the screw heads and the back wall of the freezer compartment and tighten the screws. Then install the bottom screw. Plug in the refrigerator, turn on the water and make yourself a frosty beverage.
All in all, a relatively quick and painless procedure.

Another note - we kept saying "is there ice yet"? I think the metal bar that controls the ice maker needed to be raised and lowered a few times before it would work properly as it seemed to raise 1/2 way but the ice would not drop so I put it down and it worked its way up. Had to do it a couple of times over a 4 hour span but once going, it is working like a champ.

Removed back cover by removing 6 screws, vacuumed the dust out to make it less unpleasant and made sure I had the fridge far enough away from the wall to easily see. The kit was a little different from the relay that was in place - the old one on the compressor was encased in a small plastic carrier, and the replacement was two separate pieces, a short connector wire and a much bigger cover. I made sure the fridge was unplugged, then pulled off the wires (recorded what color went where) and pulled the relay with it's carrier from the compressor. I realized that the carrier was not to be reused, and pushed on the relay and the overload pieces, put on the provided white connector wire, connected the colored wires back to their new connections (orange wire now connects to white connector wire), and carefully snapped the new big cover over the wires and relay. Be careful with the wire routing - don't want to dislodge the connectors when putting on the cover. Remounted the back cover and plugged that puppy in - worked like a champ!

Well, off course, I started with the refrigerator UNPLUGGED :)
The hardest part of this repair was removing the plastic cover in the ceiling of the refrigerator compartment to get to the board. The screws all were easy to find (2 on either side of the temperature slide control; 2 on either side of the bulbs; and two in the underside of the compartment that houses the board in the far back right corner) and came out easily, however the 2 little plastic "tab locks" at the rear of the cover made things a little difficult. The right combination of pressure on the tabs and outward pulling of the cover took me quite a few tries to get right; but once the cover was off the rest of the repair was simple! The replacement part is a little different from the original in that it is now encased in a plastic housing, whereas the original was just a bare board. But it fit in perfectly - I snapped off the old wiring assembly and snapped in the new one, and we were off to the races. The cover proved to go back on a little easier than it had come off and in about 3 hours I heard the first piece of ice drop and the refrigerator compartment was down to 30 with the temperature setting set in the middle at 5. (I've sinced lowered it a little to bring the temp to about 36) - This was a really easy repair that saved me about $200; a break I really needed. And if you don't believe that it's easy and that you can do it yourself, this should really motivate you.................................. I AM A GIRL!!!! :) lol.
Good luck!!!

The fridge wasnt cooling and freezer was barely operating. We had the same problem in 2005 and the fan that blows cold air into the freezer and fridge was replaced for $200 BY Maytag. We looked up the part and found two choices with different connectors but narrowed it down by the pictures and series #. The part was ordered Sunday and arrived Tuesday for ~80$. To intsall you simply remove food and shelves then 4 nuts that hold back pnael in place. Then release one wiring harness connector to allow the panel to pivot out. After that you can easily release the clips holing the fan cover and then undo two screws to drop assembly out. Two more screw release fan body (you can reuse the fan blade) and one more for the earthstrap. After that follow reverse instructions to reassemble and after ~45 mins the unit was as good a new. Having said that there seems to be a basic design flaw in this maytag unit if fans only last 3-4 years. Still much cheaper than buying a new fridge.

First I removed the 14.3 tons of freezer contents, closed the water valve, shut off the juice, and removed the freezer bins, the freezer door and the three screws that held the element in place. After bringing in 397 hand tools from my garage inventory, I loosened the unit and, after extensive evaluation, I finally disconnected the wiring connector from its freezer rear wall connector counterpart. You ain't gonna believe the rest of my story--of total ineptitude by an experienced fix-it-yourself dummy.

I searched the internet for a replacement ice maker and found it at partselect.com. I called Sears to ask if I could add my refrigerator to my existing appliance repair account. Sears said sure--it would cost me only one arm, three toes and one grandchild. I abruptly declined their magnanimous offer—I don’t give up my arms and toes so easily.

I visited the local Maytag repair parts and service retailer, who advised they didn't do parts anymore. Expecting their repair price would be greater than Sears, I resorted to partselect.com. I called them to be assured what I was buying was not mistakenly a 747 Landing Gear. On the afternoon (West Coast) of 4/28/10, I ordered (via internet) one PS21215123 Ice Maker Assy. Much to my pleasant surprise, it arrived via FedEX on 4/30/10 (no freight charges to me).

My repair/replacement efforts were hampered by the effects of my right rotator cuff surgery a few months before and major left wrist surgery two months ago to remove fractured bones and torn ligaments.

Undaunted by my physical handicaps, I forged forward. After re-installing the unit, I turned the water supply and electricity back on. It was graveyard dead. I wisely then bought two bags of ice as an interim solution to the severe needs of my wife and me for our daily chilled evening cocktails. I removed the unit, checked it out and re-installed it. I bought two more bags of ice. All the while, I turned the water and electricity off and on as required by reasonable safety standards. High tediousness!

Several more home maintenance tasks then arose for Sergeant Super Fixer, but I returned to the ice maker problem on 4/8/10. Last chance--remove the device and insure there was no frozen ice in the inlet tube--or call the local partsless repairman. No ice found, but I did learn the wiring connector to the unit was awry--no contact! While explaining that to my wife, I realized the two upper mounting screws were intended to be partially installed into the freezer wall to accommodate the unit's slotted mounting holes! Then, tighten the screws. Oh my God! During my 143 installations and removals, I had installed those screws blindly--using the (handicapped) skills of my right and left hands without any benefit of direct eyesight.

I returned to my challenging project this morning (4/9/10), fully utilizing all the expertise I had gained yesterday. Fifteen minutes of amusing effort! Turn on the juice! Turn on the water!Two hours later, ice cubes were dropping into the bin like rhinoceros bisquits in the jungle.

Hallelujah! I now am free for the next challenge!

HINT: Put a bed pillow (an old one, or your wife's) in the freezer compartment to soften the harshness of its cold metal on your back, if you use the "crawl in on your back" approach.

The ice maker was not getting water. I hotwired the water valve by switching the connectors for the water dispenser and ice maker water valves and water flowed into the icemaker when the water dispenser lever was pushed. I wronly assumed the water valve was good. I removed the icemaker and determined that the gear motor was not getting power in the position the icemaker had stopped.In this position, the thermostat determines when the motor gets power so I replaced the thermostat. The icemaker still would not get water! As it turns out, the water solenoid was sticking due to a deteriorated rubber washer which let the solenoid plunger get too far out of the magnetic field. I replaced the water solenoid assy and all is well. Don't get fooled by hotwiring the valve. If it isn't getting water, the solenoid probably is the culprit.