JAS01*J2 General Electric Range - Instructions

First of all I want to thank PartSelect. I have been looking for these parts for over 15 years. I am so happy to have found PartSelect. 1. Turn off Range 2. Turn off Breaker to the Range at your home Breaker Box. 3. Turn on Range to see if you turned off the right Breaker if so then turn Range off. 4. Lift Burner Element up. 5. Take off Silver Trim Ring and Drip Bowl. 6. With screw driver unscrew the screw that is holding the Burner Element to the Range. It is located at the base of the hing where the Burner Element attaches to the Range. 7. Pull the Burner Element out just far enough to see the entire Element where the wires attach. 8. Snap off the two silver clips from each side of the White Glass Insulation Block with a screw driver. 9. With an adjustable wrench (crescent) loosen and remove the screws holding one of the wires to the Burner Element. 10. Find the same Terminal on the new Burner Element and reattach the wire to the new Burner Element Terminal. 11. Now do the same to the remaining Terminal. 12. Install the White Glass Insulation Block over the two Terminals and secure with the two silver clips. 13. Reattach Burner Element to Range with screw. 14. Replace Silver Trim Ring and Drip Bowl. 15. Turn on Breaker and test by turning on Range. You will smell a slight electrical burn smell for a moment while the new Elements heat for the first time. This will dissipate quickly. NOTE: I used the old White Glass Insulation Block I did not use the one that came with the new Burner Element. I found the old one to be the better choice. I saved the new one in case needed at a later date. The Job to replace both the 6" & 8" Burner Elements took less than 30 Minutes. I think it took longer to write this replacement instruction. LOL Very easy...Thanks again PartSelect. Charles McAllen, Texas

Repair was simple (just lift off the old and put on the new). What was pleasantly surprising was how quickly I received the parts (amazing)!

Lastly, I've been looking for the correct parts/sizes in stores for years (yes, I should have tried this sooner). I was delighted to finally find a place that actually had the correct parts.

1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.

We took out the philips screws on the right and left side of inside of the oven and two hex head screws on the clip on the top of the oven in the front. Then using a slot screw driver pryed the oven liner out enough to remove old gasket and replace the new gasket. We did see in some online directions that we were suppose to remove entire oven from cabinet and loosen bolts in the back. But, we were able to get enough space to get the old gasket out and new one installed. We did use a 1/4" thick piece of wood on face of oven to prevent any denting of oven when prying out the liner of the oven.

Received the Drip bowls and Rings very quickly. Opened the box and then cut open the plastic wrap that the individual rings and drip bowls were in. Lifted the burner on the stove top, took out the old ring and drip bowl. Installed the shiny new drip bowl and ring, then lowered the stove top element back into place. I was able to replace all 4 of them within 5 minutes. Made the 30 year old stove look brand new.Thank you for perfect fit parts and fast delivery.

unscrew hinge support screw w/nutdriver, remove ceramic insulator held on with clips around wires and base of burner, remove screws holding wires to element w/nutdriver, replaced screws on new element w/nutdriver, replaced ceramic insulator held together w/ clips, reattach hinge, replace burner lower overflow bowl and trim ring, fire it up. used pliers to hold the wires and burner element together when tightening screw so as to not bend element.

So this ancient stove we inherited when we bought our house had the drip bowls wrapped in tin foil. We've searched EVERY (not joking) store in our area for drip bowls that would fit it, but apparently Hotpoint wanted to make sure you could never do this - well, at least not easily. No one, not one store carries drip bowls to fit it. I finally searched online and partselect.com came up first on the list. I was amazed they had the right part! Better yet, ordering was beyond easy, and they came super quick. Popped in the parts in less than 2 minutes, and we're good to go - makes this old stove look new! (well, if this was the 80's, lol) When I clicked on the part it said which stoves it would fit, which was also very helpful. Thank goodness for Part Select! Otherwise we would've had to rewrap those disgusting old bowls... I'd recommend this site in a heartbeat!

Took oven door off. Removed screws that were holding oven insert. Pulled out oven insert. Removed old gasket. Installed new gasket. Push oven insert back. Installed screws. Replaced oven door.

this repair is simple. Just unscrew the existing connection and attach the new heating element. You may have to break the existing ceramic element, but a new one comes with the new heat element.

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]

Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.

Removed single screw securing the old tilt-up burner. Removed clips on sides of clamshell ceramic terminal block with flat blade screwdriver to expose two wire connections. Removed 2 screws connecting the wires to the bad heating element. Did not use the supplied new ceramic terminal block, just reused old one. Connected new burner to wires with 2 screws. Reassembled terminal block with clips. Fastened clip with single screw to attach new unit to side of opening in range top. Tested. Done.

Replaced all the ordered parts, and straightened a bent "rest piece" (one of three) on the element os the large burner, which made it rest perfectly on the new Trim Ring. It doesn't easily fall down into the bowl now while I am using the burner. The new Bowls look so nice, and the stove looks nearly new!

I now know where to go for help when I need to repair appliances. You seem to have everything that could possibly be needed. Thank you!

Son-in-law unscrewed oven compartment; broken gasket was easy enough to remove and new gasket easy to replace; only problem was oven door would not shut tight. Tried shoving gasket harder into groove, tried turning on oven and heating new gasket to see if it would soften. Finally got it to close by pushing hard on left side of oven and inside light would at least go off and stay off.

Replace part an wires