J2S968TH4WW General Electric Range - Instructions

I had to remove the oven from the wall because the sensor plug connction is behind the unit. Two screws hold the sensor inside the oven and then I disconnected the lead and pulled the sensor out from the front. I installed the new sensor, tightened the two screws holding it in and connected the lead. Then reinstalled the oven into the wall. Overall, a very easy repair once you get the oven out.

I removed the old igniter by working a thin screwdriver under the edge of the igniter, and carefully prying it up. I then used pliers to pull off the electrical wire. Connected up the new igniter, and pushed it back into the hole. A very simple repair.

I've replaced 2 igniters on this stove. My symptoms were that when I tried to light one of the bad burners I heard clicking, and could see the spark on the other (working) burners. So I knew the basic sparking function was working. Just that the igniter on the broken burner would not spark.

The repair went very easy. The replacement part was designed differently than the original part. It installed on the rear of the drawer with a screw as the original snapped into the side. This was a bit confusing when researching and looking up the part online.

A rubber grate foot on my range top had worn out. I pulled the worn foot out and installed the new grate foot with no tools or accessories. Good as new! Now I don't have to worry about the grate scraping my range top and scratching the paint. I also ordered extras so I won't have to wait if another wears out.

Removed the oven door for easy acces to oven. Unscrewed (philips screwdriver) the screw holding temp sensor in place. Gently pulled the wiring until quick connector was located. Pushed down on locking level on quick connect while holding other end of wiring (so wiring would not fall back behind oven). Connected the new sensor and screwed back in place. Reinstalled oven door. Tested temperature settings by turning on oven and comparing with a separate oven thermometer.

It was much easier than trying to remove the bonded aluminum foil from the false bottom/drip pan. Simply lift and remove oven front door, (see your manual), slide out false bottom and slide in new. For me it did take longer than 15 minutes, but that's because I was doing a thorough oven cleaning. The part was in the $50 range and well worth it. Why didn't anyone ever tell me that you can no longer line the bottom of your oven with aluminum foil?

Spring clips installed on seal just pull off door. New clips get inserted in mounting holes and are pushed in to seat in door. Seal ends slide into door holes.

Replaced old sensor with new one by removing nut screw and carefully pulling sensor cable out of oven back until plastic terminal connection is exposed. Sensor connection has a locking tab that must be pushed in to release sensor connector. Do not allow oven wire to pull back into back of oven until new sensor is connected. Reinstall nut screw and tight to hold new sensor in place. Verify proper oven operation.

After turning the breaker off, using a 1/4 inch nut driver I removed all the clamp screws (5) holding the heating element in place. I then unplugged the element wire spades from the rear of oven and removed the old element. Installing the new one was simply going in reverse order. After plugging the new one in, I did however, use plyers to squeeze the connectors and make the connections tighter. It took a little more back work than I thought because I was leaning over most the time. All in all, I saved a hundred dollar bill in doing this 30 min job myself.

Most important: Unplug or turn off the breaker before beginning! (I briefly saw sparks as I removed the old switch.) Look at the replacement switch. The springs on the sides hold the switch in, which means you have to press in these springs to get the old switch out. I slipped a small screwdriver in on the side while I pulled with a small pair of pliers. It's tricky, but it will come out. Once you have the switch out, just unplug the wire in the back, making sure it doesn't fall back in the hole before you get the new switch on. Then, just push the new switch into the hole in the stove and you're done.

After reviewing the potential causes for the error code, I decided I'd try to change out the temp sensor. Using the ohmeter, I saw the difference immediately between the old and new sensor. The sensor is accessed from the back of the stove, and must be slide out to gain access to the rear panel. Since the stove I have is a built in, removing the stove and the access panel was the hardest part of this repair. Resetting the glass control panel was also a bit tricky to calibrate the touch sensitive buttons. Good luck.

Turn off power. Remove 4 screws holding the fan cover inside oven using a 1/4 in. nut driver. . Hold the fan from turning and remove the nut by turning clock-wise(left-hand thread!) using a 1/2 in. nut driver. Then from the back of the range, remove the sheet metal cover to expose the motor(1/4 in. nut driver). Remove the 3 screws holding the motor(1/4 in. nut driver) and pull it out. The new motor comes with a seal, so don't forget to stick it on. Put everything back in reverse order and your done. Nice and quiet after that.

The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct.
They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support.
The draw is now operational..better then ever.

Repair to range went real well, Lifted range from

counter. Removed eight screws that secure burner

assembly. Lifted burners from it's position, and

removed igniters. Installed heat srink at burner

connections so as to ensure high voltage would

have no leaks. Removed insulation, and installed

spark module.. Reassembled unit, placed in

counter cut out, put 110 volt cord into outlet.

Tested all burners, everything worked great..

The repair took about hour and 15 minutes.

Have fun and be careful...... THE END

Pulled the old one out. Disconnected the wire. Repaired the frayed wire cover with Liquid Tape. Connected the wire. Inserted the new part into the hole. This is after installing a new spark module earlier. But that was dumb easy too. So for about $100 bucks in parts and an hour of my time I saved myself the appliance repairman money and agonizing scheduling and dealing with them for the price of gold. I also replaced all the gaskets on the burners in that time. It so easy even a financial planner could do it.

I unscrewed the burners which was three screws per burner then removed gas control knobs and pulled up range top and un hooked the old module and replaced it with the new one two screws hold it in place and connected it the same way the old one was and put range back together and now it works perfect and saved me over $250.00 and part only coated around $40 with shipping great parts seller and I highly recommend partselect.com very easy fix thanks