HLSR1090J6WW Hotpoint Washer - Instructions

First I removed the front panel using the screw driver. I removed the old belt which was in the bottom of the washer. I placed the new belt on the motor and adjusted the pullies. I replaced the front panel. The washer spins much better now than it had for the past year.

I notice a strange noise when ever the tub would shut down from a spin cycle. When I would load clothes it seemed that the basket had to much lateral movement. I looked between the top of the frame & basket & found 2 of the dampening straps had broken. Ordered 4 of them to replace all the straps.

Replacement was easy. I popped the front cover of the machine off. Remove 2 screws which held the top down which gave easy access to the straps. The straps are held in place by 2 screws so it was a simple process of removing the screws, removing the straps from their anchors & reinstalling the screws with the new straps. Job done. Reinstall the top & front of the machine & put the wife back to work.

The trick is to pull the front cover off by using a putty knife .slide it under the cover at both front corners.it will click on each corner.then pull front cover off .lift off the bottom catch hooks.look for the pump on the bottom right side.unplug the wite connector .take 2-5/16 bolts out holding the bracket.then grab a pliers .squeeze the hose clamps and pull the 2 hoses off.assemble new pump.

Went to PartSelect website, troubleshot the problem I was having for the model washer I have. Ordered part, once it arrived, I had it installed and all back together in less than 30 minutes. Washer has been running with no problems since the repair. PartSelect is awesome!

My son, Eddy did the repairs. He used a flat head screwdriver and a pair of pliers to remove the broken parts on the shaft. He lined up the new washer control knob dial with the notch, and pushed it down into place. Next, he lined up the new control knob, and placed it onto the metal shaft. The washer works like new again! Very easy removal and installation! Thank you for your Fast Shipping, Great Prices and Available Parts Line!!!

There is a metal plate on back of the top of the washer held on by 3 screws. Removed them and that gave you access to the water valve. Water valve was fastened with 2 screws. Removed them and the hose that was connected with a clamp. Reversed the order on the installation and done. Whole job took 20 min. Now I know where to get parts. This site was awesome. Ordered the part on Tuesday, UPS delivered Thursday.

Turns out that water valve was bad but that's not the only thing I find out after I replaced that part my washer could not register what load size is on so there is bad pressure hose and pressure switch also. Easy unplug washer turn off water remove water supply hoses then unscrew the 3 screws that are holding control panel. Disconnect old valve from the cable plug unscrew the screw that is holding water valve. Install new valve by placing it in the same place where the old one was screw the screw that holds the valve connect it to the cable plug connect water supply hoses plug plug in the washer back and turn on the water. Check for possible leaks and test your washer by choosing the smallest load.

After unplugging the washer, I drained remaining water from washer tub using my Wet/Dry vac. Ordered new pump Sunday night from PartSelect, 'Standard delivery', part arrived Tuesday morning. Removal & installation took less than 20 minutes.

The wife told me that the wash just wasn’t coming out very clean. So I went to check it out and found that the agitator was just moving freely. Upon closer inspection I found that the coupler had stripped.
I was unable to get the agitator free from the coupler so I had to drill out the inside top of the agitator in order to get at the bold that held the coupler in place. Once I got that out the rest was real simple.
Just bolt in the new coupler and snap in the new agitator into place. That can be harder that you think.
I used a block of wood laid across the top and just tapped it with a hammer to set the unit in place.
Make sure that when you take it apart to save the bolt and the old cap unless you ordered a new cap.

Use paint scraper to release spring tabs holding front cover on.

Removed 2 screws holding lid down, and lifted up but did not remove top cover and control panel.

R/R 2 hex screws holding strap in place. If you are lucky and the broken strap is up front this is a super fast repair. Those of you with a rear strap will want to disconnect the wiring harness to the lid switch and likely remove the top panel (+ <5 mins).

Super easy and super cheap!

IT was so easy to replace the pump. I think the hardest part was trying to get the pliers to work right. All I had to do was unscrew two bolts, take off two pipes, get the new pump and replace the pipes and bolts. It was that easy.

Popped off the front panel and removed two screws that help top down. Then pulled the top of the washer up and leaned back out of way.Then each strap had a screw on each end and a clip that holds straps just remove the old and replace with new and put back together.

First removed the screws on the contraol panel. Then I pulled the tubing from the part. Snapped teh switch preesure out. Put the new one in. Attached the tubing. Put control panel back together.

used a socket to unscrew the clip. pulled out the old hose, slid the new hose into the clip and screwed the clip back on. all fixes should be this easy.

Took all apart.. front off,top off, took basket top off..took the basket assembley out by unhooking the four shocks. Took a picture of all wireing and fittings. Then came the most difficult. The main nut that holds the basket to the main shaft. If you do not have one of the wrenches made for that nut good luck. Between all the gunk and rusty parts around it. It would not budge. I used a pipe wrench and a 3# hammer and it wouldnt budge. It is a oppisite drive nut so it comes off in reverse as a regular one. I ordered the wrench on line to use on the new one i orderd. Had to because the nut was getting chewed up. So waiting to order the parts i needed i ground down the nut with my angle grinder.. worked well. Knowing i had to replace the main drive and bearing it wasnt that bad. Got the nut off... pulled the basket out and then the shot seal. Really looked tore up. So because of the seal leaking, the water drips down onto the main drive and thats what ruined it. Cleaned everything up really nice.. went to put the new seal in and noticed it didnt fit as tight as it should.. so i put some silicone around it and installed everything back together. Still thinking of the seal still i went ahead and finished it all and guess what. It leaked.. the seal in my opinion needs to fit over top of the plastic main bucket not just inside of it. After researching the same problem some guys said they filled the bearing seat with silicone and it helped. Others say the plastic tub needs replaced because the bearing seat is wore out.. the tub is like $70.00. The seal is $8.00. So, what to do? Buy another tub and seal and hope the seal fits in tight, or gob alot of silicone on the seal and older tank and see.. the washer new was like $600.00. Been dicontinued now. The main shaft assembley was $160.00... seal$8.00.. the tool for $15.00...misc stuff still comes out to $200.00 . Now to buy a new tub? Is it worth it or not.. we'll see