HDA100X-72WH Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

First I removed the old gasket and seals. I replaced the seals and had difficulty getting the gasket to seal at the bottom of the door. I had to remove the seven door screws and was able to manipulate the gasket. Do not lift the inside door cover too far, as the latch may become disengaged, thus creating another problem to repair. I did this repair myself (female).

I ordered parts before opening. My theory was to have the parts so that the dishwasher was not apart for longer than necessary, in the hope of avoiding the wrath of momma bear who just wants a new one... Once I opened up the door I realized the spring for the main lever arm had broken its mount. I drilled a new hole and reattached the spring. I did not need any parts. However, the original parts corresponding to the three parts I ordered were all beat up and brittle, so I was happy to replace anyway. I did not even explain, she is happy the cup looks new and is happy with the dishwasher. It even says Cascade on it, almost like an upgrade :). If your cup does not latch I would order the three parts I did and also order the lever spring. It was very corroded after 30 years, so I would have replaced if I purchased it. Next time.. :)

Unscrewed old spray arm by hand. Screwed new one on by hand. Two minute job. New arm and tower were better than old one. Piece of cake at a very low price.

I received my dishwasher as a hand me down, my Aunt never liked the way it cleaned. After it sitting for about 2 years i installed it in my house and found that it leaked all the time from where motor shaft went into the pump housing. After disassembling everything and scouring parts sites online, I found the parts, ordered them. 3 days later i had the parts, and the next day I had a fully functioning leak free dishwasher.

The hardest part was figuring out how to disassemble the door to replace the baffles and door gasket. No pictures or clues on the internet or my owners manual. I figured it out myself and the rest was a piece of cake. When the 7 screws were removed, the door liner lifted right out and new parts fit right in.

I simply detatched the broken old roller and snapped in the new one. It was very simple and I did not need any tools.

first, I removed the screws holding the dishwasher to the countertop.Then I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. I turned the dishwasher on it's back and loosened the three hose clamps securing the water connections to the pump assembly. I then removed the electrical plug to the motor and the screw holding the support rod to the motor. Then I worked the loosened water connections apart and removed the pump and motor assembly.
Then I removed the hose clamp and plug from one of the orifices on the new pump, and aligned all of the water connections and wiggled the new pump assembly into place. I tightened the hose clamps, Installed the new screw and support bar to the motor, and connected the electrical plug. I then turned the dishwasher upright, reconnected the power cord, water supply and drain lines and started a wash cycle to check the new system for leaks. I found that the extraneous drain solenoid that came attached to the new pump was loose and rattling, so I secured the solenoid shaft and linkage to the pump housing with electrical tape to stop the rattling.

I opened the D/W door, used needle nose pliers to remove the old baffles. They come right out. I cleaned the area using paper towels and installed the new baffles. They just sit in the corners with nothing holding them. Simple job.

Removed the dishwasher, turned it over, removed 3 hoses, 2 clamps, 2 wires and one support. Installed new pump and reconnected. Done!

Shut off circuit breaker to dishwasher and shut off valve to dishwasher under sink.Remove bottom access panel screws on both sides of panel. Remove both screws holding dishwasher to counter.Place old mattboard strips under legs to prevent scratching floor & slide out from under counter. Use a Shopvac to remove water and spillage. Have rags and paper towels handy. Carefully disconnect wires, drain hose and water line to free dishwasher. Fold old rug runner in half to place dishwasher on, turn on side and then gently upside down on rug to access motor. Remove butterfly clamps, hose clamps, electrical connections, and support bracket. remove old motor and pump and place in box to discard. Position replacement motor and pump according to diagrams. Reconnect all clips, hoses and connections. Since replacement motor and pump is smaller, use longer support bracket from adapter kit. Return dishwasher to upright position and reconnect wiring using wirenuts, drain hose and waterline. Reposition mattboard strips under legs and slide back into place. Attach screws to counter top. Turn on power, water and do a test run to check for leakage. Replace bottom access panel. Pat yourself on the back since you've saved yourself hundreds of dollars for a repair or replacement of your dishwasher.

Followed the instructions and it was easy. Made the washer seem brand new!...It is the best solutions for a small budget. We used CLR to wash out the washer workings and it really left a sparkle on the dishes... I am so glad you don't change the models so much that parts can't be exchanged when they wear...

I made this replacement more dificult because I removed the old motor/pump earlier. Should have done it at the time I installed the new unit to be sure all hoses where installed correctly. I hooked the drain hose to the wrong port and when I started the dishwasher I found my error. Once I corrected the problem and started it again - the wash and drain cycles were perfect and there were no leaks.

I ordered a replacement from partselect.com and received it in just three days. The only difficult part was deciding how to remove the white plastic end caps on the sliding rails. Finally, I took a small screwdrive and pried out the crimps in the metal, pulled the old caps out, inserted the new ones, and squeezed the metal together again using needle-nosed pliers. Nothing to it!
Note: The configuration of the new rack isn't exactly like the original (size and placement of the prongs differ somewhat) but it fits perfectly and works great.

I popped off the front track stops--pretty easy with a little twisting and slid the basket out. A little leverage with a screw driver and the roller axle slipped off easily. Popped the new ones on, slid the basket back into the track and popped the stops in place and the job was done in under 15 minutes.

There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that and you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.