HDA100S-45WA Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

There are eight guides that hold the rack rails in place. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the top two guides on each side in order to remove the rack from the dishwasher. The plastic axles on the rack and the rollers snap on. Use the hammer and punch to bend the metal clip on one end of the rail. Remove the plastic end piece then slide the rollers out. Place two new rollers in the rail and put the plastic end piece on. Use the hammer and punch to bend the metal clip back into place. Snap the rails on the rack and set the rack on the guides in the dishwasher. Replace the top guide using the screwdriver, you will have to twist the rails in order get them in between the
guides.

Used the pliers to remove the broken roller. It came off in pieces. Slid new one on.

Cap on end of roller track was a bit of a challenge. It sort of twists & pulls off.

I had never done work on my dishwasher - I was a rookie in this area. Turns out the work itself was quite simple. Pulled the dishwasher out, turned it over, and was able to easily replace the motor and pump assembly. The drain tube was also an easy replace. A couple key notes:

1. I also purchased a new drain solenoid and impeller kit. Note that both of these items are already included in the Motor and Pump kit replacement. There is no need to by both, now I have extras.

2. The end of the drain tube has to be trimmed if you are routing the drain tube to an air gap mounted on your kitchen sink. You have to cut the large diameter end of the tube to get to the narrow portion that will fit on your air gap.

3. The first cycle you run with the new motor/pump assembly is noisy. When you first fire it up the components in the pump are all dry, and they squeal until the water gets to them. I initially thought I had done something wrong, but once the water started flowing all the peculiar sounds cleared up.

1. I removed the plastic stops from the ends of the upper rack slides.
2. Removed the upper rack.
3. Unclipped the old rollers from the rack.
4. Clipped the new rollers onto the rack.
5. Made a grunting noise so the wife could hear.
6. Walked away

Removed door seal and corner baffles by hand (no tools required). Replaced same parts with minor tweaking to get proper alignment of new seal. Strongly recommended: remove dishwasher trays in order to get head and shoulders inside for proper view of seal placement.

1. Remove lower cover skirt.
2. Shut of water at undersink valve.
3. Unplug power cord or turn off circuit breaker.
4. Disconnect water supply line from fill valve.
5. Unplug the electrical connector from the valve.
6. Remove the 2 valve mounting bracket screws.
7. With loose valve in hand, rotate to gain access to allow release of outlet hose clamp for hose removal.
8. Remove brass fitting from old valve and install on new valve. Use teflon tape on the pipe threads only.

Install new valve by reversing the procedure.

Note: This procedure assumes replacement of both eyelet cables. It is recommended that both eyelet cables be replaced at the same time.

1. Using a Philips' head screwdriver, remove the four screws holding the lower front panel (below dishwasher door).
2. Remove the faulty eyelet cable(s) hooked into the springs at one end and the door hinges at the other.
3. Take the new eyelet cables and hook them onto the door hinge on either side. Ensure a secure fit.
4. Guide the eyelet cable around the spinwheel on one side and insert the hooks of the springs into the eyelets.
5. Pull on the springs and insert their hooks into the eyelets of the other cable, ensuring a secure fit.
6. Test the door by opening and closing it a few times to ensure the spring has tension.
7. Replace the lower front panel cover removed in step 1 with its screws.

Removed 7 screws holding "inner door" in place ( note: 2 bottom screws are different than the rest...keep separate).....remove rinse aid plug....press "tabs" inward to release rinse aid container. ( in this instance....the gasket had failed...which was "part" of the reason dishwasher was leaking during operation)

install new rinse aid container ...making sure that "trip arm" is positioned correctly........and press into place. ( Tabs should expand when container is properly positioned...creating a tight seal).....reuse old rinse aid filler plug.

Replace "inner door" cover....tighten screws.....

remove faulty tub corner baffles....place new ones in corresponding positions ( the baffles form a suction .....to stay in place....no adhesive needed)

Close door and operate as usual........no more leaks!

This is a super easy "no brainer"...that would have cost about half the price of a new dish washer ...had I hired a "professional" to do the repairs!!!!

Opened package from Parts Select.
Removed Silverware basket from package.
Opened Dishwasher.
Inserted Silverware Basket in rack.
Closed Dishwasher.
Discarded shipping package.
Told wife I fixed Dishwasher.
Sat down & had a beer.

The most difficult part was removing the dishwasher from below the counter. Once that was complete, I simply turned the washer onto it's front surface to access the pump easier. Simply disconnected the electrical connectors, loosened the three hose clamps holding the hoses to the pump. Lastly removed a stiff arm bracket holding the pump. Reversed the order to install the new one using a longer bracket provided with the new unit. Hooked up the electrical connections last and slid the washer back in place. The washer runs like new now and is not making noise. The replacement part was a perfect match.

took dishwasher out- put on table to work on-removed wire brace- disconected drain outlet- disconnected top drive seal- removed wire clip connector- removed motor unit----------------
installed new motor/drain unit--used new longer wire brac used adapter to connect electical leads-
tightened clamps and bingo it worked and didnt' leak. good job on the supplying of all the necessary adapers.

Did the install a few days ago 4.25.11 and all went smoothly. The instructions that came with the kit were very straightforward and the diagrams were extremely helpful in locating brackets/hoses/connections. My dad thought he would just get down there and do it, but wasn't sure what to do. Using the directions with the kit, I had the motor and pump off in under 5 minutes. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS WITH THE KIT!

Some things to note:
- Get some towels/cups/bowls, we had some water leaking from the dishwasher and hoses.
- Be careful removing the dishwasher from the counters, go slow.


1. Shut off electricity
2. Shut off water. I just shut closed the line that went directly to the dishwasher.
3. Removed screws from bottom panel to expose motor and pump assembly.
4. Removed screws securing the dishwasher to the counters.
5. Slowly slid dishwasher from counter and rotated so door was facing the ground carefully to ensure wires/hoses were not pulled or crushed.
6. Removed screw from bottom of motor that was secured to the hanger.
7. Removed ground screw from bottom of motor.
8. Removed all wired connections from the motor and pump.
9. Loosened hose clamp securing the drain line and removed from motor.
10. Loosened 2x hose clamps securing the motor and pump assembly to dishwasher.
11. Ensured everything was clear and disconnected, and slowly removed motor and pump assembly from dishwasher.
12. Test fit new motor and pump assembly.
13. Reconnected 2x connections to the motor and pump.
14. Secured the ground wire to the motor and pump.
15. Slid motor and pump onto dishwasher and secured the 2x hose clamps.
16. Secured screw from the hanger cable to the motor and pump.
17. Reconnected water line to motor and pump, and tightened hose clamp.
18. Ensured all connections were made, hose clamps were tightened, and there were no extra connections.
19. Rotated dishwasher back onto feet.
20. Slowly slid dishwasher back into counters ensuring no cables or hoses were kinked or crushed.
21. Restored electricity and water to dishwasher, and then performed a quick test of one cycle to check for leeks.
22. Secured bottom panel and dishwasher to counters.
23. Enjoyed having a working dishwasher again!

To remove the upper rack guide end caps, pull the inside flange gently to the rear, then twist the cap out of the track. Then the rollers come out easily, and replacing them involves merely snapping them in place over a rack frame part. Piece of cake! Roll the rack back into the guides, and replace the end caps. No tools needed!

Ordered the part, by using the diagram on the ge website identified the part and ordered it right them and when it came (delivered really fast) took it out of the bag and screwed it in the jet dry despenser and is working great.

The hardest part was removing the dishwasher from under the counter and cleaning up the large amount of water that poured out when I turned the unit on its side.
The actual pump replacement was pretty easy except there were a lot of extra parts that were only needed for other brands or other models.
I might have tightened one of the large clamps too much as there was a very slight leak after I was done. One or two drops of water per cycle, which evaporates quickly and not worth taking apart again.
It was not hard but took longer than predicted.
Much better than buying a new dishwasher or paying the estimated $350 to an appliance repair company.