GU940SCGQ2 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

This repair was very simple. I opened the door of the dishwasher then pulled the old rubber seal (gasket) out; I checked the old gasket to with the new one to ensure the new one was correct then installed the new one. There are two small rubber pieces located in mounting slots below the door gasket that slide out; I slide the old ones out and slide the new ones in. No tools required.
The thing that made the whole job easier was ordering the parts from Parts Select; I couldn't find exactly what I needed on the Whirlpool website but I found exactly what I needed on the Parts Select website and the parts were a perfect match.

The part arrived the next day after order was placed. That is an amazing service.
When it arrived I noticed that the new part was re-designed but the dimensions appeared to be identical. Initially it was difficult to snap it in to position but with help of a screw driver it finally snapped in place. After re-installation of the upper wash arm all looked perfect. But the arm would not spin freely. It would bind against the bottom of the upper tray. Finally after about 20 minutes I noticed that the mount was slightly slanted to one side. This was not immediately apparent unless you look carefully. Further I noticed that the bottom of the upper tray was protruding lower on the right side. Finally I realized why the mount was slanted to one side. I removed the mount and turned it 180 deg.. Bingo all fits and works perfectly. I could have avoided the problems if an orientation directions were included with the mount. I suspect that a less technical individual would likely not figure it out.

The part came so fast without extra shipping. It took only 10 minutes to replace water tube and upper spray arm. I only had to remove one screw. Replaced with new parts and reinstalled screw. It was easier and cheaper than calling a repairman.

Removed the lower panels from beneath the dishwasher door. 4 screws. Turned off the water.

Removed one screw holding the inlet valve to the side rail of the dishwasher. It was attached to the hot water line and then the washer water input line. Removed the electrical connector..Pull straight off, and use a pair of pliers to open the squeeze clamp on the washer hose. The hot water supply hose has a brass fitting to loosen and remove.

Replaced the inlet valve, reconnected the electrical and also replaced the hot water line from under the sink to the washer. Used a new braided 5' hose with fittings. Used teflon tape on the screws and did not over tighten the brass fittings.

Turned on the hot water supply and checked for leaks. Operated the washer and checked for leaks. Replaced the lower covers.

The pump outlet gasket was sticking out and a screw was missing from the pump outlet housing. This was causing water to flood out under the door.

Once I removed the pump outlet housing I saw that the gasket was out of place almost all the way around. I cleaned around the housing, replaced the gasket and the missing screw.

You need a Torx T-15 for this repair. Note that all of the screws on the housing were loose so you might need to tighten them from time to time.

Be careful not to drip a screw when you are installing it since it's a real hassle to fish it out from under the screen.

Once everything was tightened up, the wash pressure seemed to be much higher.

First I took out the upper rack, unscrewed the old remains and screwed in the new part. Next, I took out the upper rack, turned it over, removed the old hanger (no longer necessary with newly designed part), unscrewed the other part, and screwed on the new part. So easy! And one more thing-I ordered my part on a Fri. and it was on my porch by the following Tues. Now THAT'S service! - Pam

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Unplug the dishwasher. Simply removed 8 screws on the inside of the door, removed the interior door panel. Next popped of the plastic protective electrical panel cover. Locate the Thermal fuse that had simple instructions provided. Removed the fuse and replaced the harness. Put everything back together. Plugged dishwasher back into electrical outlet...Dishwasher resumed with the cycle that the dishwasher was in when the fuse blew. Simple, Fast AND Reliable!!!

Well, after I got the the dishwasher apart I realized the problem was not the wash impeller kit, it was the pump/ motor asembly. we deicided to replace the machine. the hardest part was holding the impeller from turning while removing the screw. there is a hex on top of the impeller you must hold in place but, if the machine is old, the hex is brittle,It will break as mine did. you will need to disconnect and take the washer from under the cabinet, and wedge a piece of wood into the motor to hold it. Then loosen the screw and inspect the components. 10 years old, it was more cost effective to replace the dishwasher. i emailed for a request authorization to return. partselect responded promptly with the autorization i needed to return the part. The service was good, and I would use partselect again.

I thought that the valve inlet was defective. Ordered the replacement, got it in one day, replaced the part...
and it worked perfectly. Saved big $$ in a service call. Found everything I needed online.

Broken latch on dishwasher prevented operation
Door Latch Bolt PS11741367 replacement instruction.

There are no instructions known to mankind on this part, however I did manage said replacement through determination and beer. First I looked it up on the internet. All kind of results, except for the model I was working on. Called, very nice woman directed me to yet another YouTube presentation for another model. As this was no help, I chose to not call her back. Not her fault.
So, I did what every instruction for the other models called for, disconnect the power. Seemed like a good idea if everyone suggested it. After that, remove the inner door by removing the screws. At this point I would like to mention that I also ordered and paid for what I thought would be a set of inner door screws to replace the old and weathered ones. However, they sent me one screw.
Who in their right mind would pay $5.10 for ONE SCREW? Well, your looking right at him. I felt like I sold the family cow for a magic bean, but that’s another story.
So, without instructions, I compared the part I ordered with the one installed in the door. It matched up in many ways, with exception for the fact I would not budge from it’s position, wiggle yes, remove no. I stared at it for 10 minutes with no further progress. Something has to give. I decided to remove the cover of the electronics with the hopes and optimism of a child. It also did not want to be removed. Back to YouTube and the computer. Nothing. I stared at it for another 10 minutes. Drank a beer, and started to “horse” it off, somehow it became ajar, and was finally removed. Upon examination of the old door latch bolt, I noticed that it was attached to the electronic mass by 4 wires. I used my phone camera to record which went where with false hopes that the repair was in reach. It was either me or the dishwasher. At this point, good money was on the dishwasher.
After recording and removal of said wires, I took the entire door latch and whatever the other piece was, to a table for further study, and another beer. After said study and beer, I remembered looking at other parts, one came to mind, a small teflon rod. As I look upon the part I knew about, I noticed it was adhering to the alien part with wires by 2 small teflon rods. I found a small nail, and pushed them out of the part, and they final separated. I replaced the old part with the new one and then reversed all steps and procedures, attached wires, reattached electronic cover, screwed down the inner door, shut main door, and started a dish cycle. Works perfectly. You may ask about the expensive screw. I took it to a local jeweler, who found nothing remarkable about it. As there must be SOMETHING about it that makes it valuable, so I had it mounted and framed in a nice display case for friends and family to treasure for years to come. A real conversation piece, and one more thing to dust.

Need needle nose pliers to remove the keepers in the end stops on basket rails. Basket must be removed to get to the spinner assimbley.
The upper rinse spinner is held in place by a stainless steal bracket. NO SCREWS!
1. You push the spinner assembly up and push it to the back of the machine.
2. Then you pull the spinner assembly down to clear the bracket and then pull it to the front of the machine.
3. To replace it just reverse the procedure.
Used part # 3379329.

Louis at ljsengele@att.net

I shut off the power to the dishwasher, then I removed the front panel under the door. On the right side just behind the electrical box there are two wires going up to the hi-limit thermostat, (you may need a small mirror to see it), remove one screw that is holding the thermostat bracket, unplug the wires from the old thermostat and install new one. Screw bracket and thermostat back to the underside of the dishwasher, reinstall the front panel, turn on the power, done.

There were eight of the star head screws to remove to take the front off the dishwasher, then just followed the instructions that came with the part, which was a thermal fuse and the new wiring that accompanied the fuse in the order. The hardest part was getting the old wire out of the harness with the other three, but once I figured that out just slid the new wire into place and made the connections. I reinserted the screws, turned the power on and knock on wood shes still working.

This gets a little lengthy... but it explains where Cascade Dishwashing Powder came up with its brand name - it's been a cascade project.
I started by replacing the Middle Wash Arm Tube as the old tube developed leaks. As others have stated this is a new design but directly replaceable and easy to do.
This didn't solve the cleaning issue so reading the experiences of others on this site realized I also had broken parts in the Upper Spray Arm Assembly and the Upper Wash assembly. I replaced these and the dishes were suddenly much, much cleaner. These were very easily replaced.
I did find that I did not need the Mount for the upper spray arm (PS402277) as a redesign of the Upper Spray Arm Mounting bracket no longer required it - the bracket simply clipped in -the diagram was out of date.
Everything seemed to go well for about 3 loads when the dishwasher started leaking heavily out of the bottom of the door. I then noticed that the lower Wash Arm Bearing Ring and the Seal, Lower Spray Arm had disintegrated so I replaced those but this didn't affect the leaking. Someone had stated that if the lower wash arm assembly had too much 'wobble' that it cause 'waves' that would leak out the front door... mine had some wobble so I added a nylon washer from Ace Hardware that reduced wobble but still leaked.
I then replaced the Door Seal Kit - this was by far the most difficult part as the door needed to be removed and it was somewhat difficult - and it seemed apparent after we had removed the door that these parts weren't the problem but we replaced them anyway.
Also, someone else had noted that they had to attach the door seal (this is NOT the gasket that goes around the door opening) with a sealant - I had the same problem; the original seal fit tightly with friction but the new replacement required an adhesive - I used silicone. Still leaked.
From here on I can't guaratee any useful information: I took the strainer screen out of the bottom of the dishwasher and found one slightly loose screw holding what I believe is the 'pump outlet' according to the diagram. I had also read that the water fill is controlled not by the float at the bottom of the washer but by the electronics and it was suggested that I disconnect the DW from the power to 'reset' the timer, this I did and hit the 'Cancel' cycle a couple of times to make sure that all programs were cancelled. Whether any of this made a difference I have no idea - except that the dishwasher suddenly stopped leaking and hasn't leaked a drop for at least 20 washes. So I don't know, for sure, why it leaked or how I fixed it, but it's working and washing great now - except the tines on the lower rack are beginning to rust out and breaking off. The rack is pretty expensive but so far I've saved a lot of money and my family thinks I'm a dishwasher genius.