GU1200XTLS3 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

pull unit out laid it down on it side replaced part reversed bingo all done 30 min tops

The Parts select video instructions for this part are pretty much spot on. The grinder assembly broke where it attached to the circulator pump impeller shaft. The screen became totally clogged and thus no water pressure to the diswasher spray arms. The only thing Id add would be to verify the circulator pump impeller is in good shape after removing the old grinder assembly and that you are able to rotate it by hand in case the impeller motor itself is seized or the impeller is jammed. Once the grinder assy was replaced good water pressure and cleans like a champ.

My dish washer is a under the counter type.On mine there are two screws that screw into the bottom of the counter frame,these are located inside when you open up the door, they will be right on the inside and to the very front of the upper part of the door opening. Remove both screws. Now,be slow and start to pull the unit out from under the counter. Make sure you don't scrastch your floor,you may use a towel.If your dish washer's discharge hose is conected under the sink, go ahead and remove it. If your unit can be unpluged, unplug it. If not throw the breaker.Try to turn your unit on' if it does you still have power still on. Try again.With the unit pulled out so you can see the back, lay on your side and look for to long looking plastic nuts with a wire coming out of them. These nuts are holding your eleament in place.Unscrew both nuts and let them slide down the wires. Pull both of the wires off the eleament.now reach inside and remove the old eleament.Put new eleamen in place, reconect wires and tighten the nuts,caustion not to tighten nuts to tight.Ok hook the hose and eleectric back up,push the unit under the cabanet, and install the two screws.Really hopes this helps.

Put back together could not pull apart without damaging door panel and insulation.

I followed the video instructions and it was very easy to follow and worked as instructed. I have ordered from you before and I will use you again..I was very satisfied. Thank You

I followed the "Installation Video for Chopper Assembly". No problems except chopper cover was hard to remove. Be careful to install new part with gear engaged and screen correctly inserted in grove. See my pic of old clogged screen/broken chopper.

I did the repair just like the video instructed

Followed the video instructions. They were clear. No problems.

First I had to figure out what was going on. After the 2nd time of being gone for about a week we came home to water on the floor around the dishwasher. After 1st time I thought leak started after starting dishwasher. Checked all connections while running but found nothing. Wrote it off as an anomoly probably due to a dried up seal that reseated. Realized after 2nd trip when we came back and found water on the floor it was when dishwasher had not been started. Figured the water was leaking thru the water inlet valve. To determine that I pulled dishwasher out and removed hose off from outlet. With dishwasher off, water was dripping out of the inlet valve with water feed on. Realized then that if I left dishwasher off overnite there may be a fair amount of water in the dishwasher. I was correct. If dishwasher was used every day or every other day we never had problem. Only when we left for a long period of time did we experience the leak. Funny thing is the leak was within the plumbing but after the inside of dishwasher filled it would start overflowing. To repair, first turned off power and shut water off. Pulled dishwasher out for easier access. Then it was a matter of removing outlet hose using pliers to pinch clamp to open, then removing screw that held bracket in place (nutdriver). This allowed easy access to remove fitting from old inlet valve using adjustable wrench. Once off I put new teflon tape on and threaded fitting onto new valve using adjustable again. Reinstalled bracket using nut driver and put hose back on using pinch pliers. All was good after that. Even checked water in the dishwasher tub after a nite or 2 of no use and no water leaking in at all. Just like new.

The fault code suggests a problem with the washer's ability to maintain water temp. This could be caused by a failure of the tempurature sensor module, safety over-temp thermostat, or the heating element. First, I disconnected AC power at the Mains panel. I then verified that the heating element was indeed at fault by removing the dishwasher and disconnecting the leads to the heating element in the rear of the unit. I set a multi-meter to resistance and measured the element and found that it was electrically open, thus proving it was the part needing replacement. I then tested the replacement element and verified it showed low resistance. (Good). I then loosened the plastic retaining nuts with an adjustable wrench, removed the old element and replaced it with the new. The nuts were then re-installed and torqued with enough force to create a leak-tight seal as verified by pouring a gallon of water in the washer. I reconnected the leads and slid the dishwasher back into place and secured it to the counter with screws. I then turned power back on at the AC Mains panel.

Pulled two clips off the rack and removed the tine row. Put the new tine row in, had to put both clips on at the same time. Very glad that the clips we had were not bad, because if they were, we would have had to order new clips too. They might consider including that with the tine row. Otherwise a fairly simple job.

Watched the video several times and made notes. The video is excellent and by following the procedure outlined it was like painting by the numbers. I could have done the job in under an hour but I'm slow and doubled checked everything as I progressed. My only remark is to make sure after snapping the dispenser in the door make sure the unit is all the way to the right before tightening the screws.

I did not take the complete wash assembly out, after removing both upper & lower racks, I took out the top screw just behind where the spinner sits. I pried the tube down &was able to pop out the plug, then I inserted the new spinner & new plug & snapped them together, I was pleased at just how easy it was, just goes to show even us girls can make repairs! Nora in Peoria AZ.

Followed the video except my model had a fixed panel 4inches wide at the top of the door on the outside which is held in by screws that don't need to come out. Secondly, the original RinseAid dispenser had wires for the Low RinseAid light on the control panel. The replacement had a big indicator that shows RinseAid level and I left the connected loosely secured, not connected. Worked the first time, no leaks because I was really careful seating the rubber seal on the replacement part onto the inside of the door. Cheers.

Removed screws popped out fuse replaced fuse put screws back works good as new