GU1200XTLB3 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

I cleaned the chopper and screen a few times and it continued to get blocked after a couple of cycles. Replaced the chopper assembly and now it works find.

Removed dishwasher from under the counter and took it to my shop. With the washer on its side, I removed the motor, then the impeller and seal. I then disassembled the motor and replaced the front bearing(purchased separately). This required an arbor press. I then reassembled the motor and installed the new seal and impeller. Reassembled in reverse order. Reinstalled under the counter and made conections. Checked for leaks and proper operation.

I had a repair guide for my dishwasher which helped. First I removed the water distribution system inside the dishwasher and then removed the door panel. Next I removed the front bottom access panel. I placed a pan under the pump and hoses to catch water when I removed the outlet hose. Very important here! One must remove the pressure switch from the outlet port or else you can't get the pump clear of the washer tub. Next I removed the drain pump by releasing the catch and turning the pump counter clockwise. Now for one of the hard steps. I had to remove three pins which hold the pump assy to the wash tub. Two of them are out of sight so you have to weave you hand past all the hardware and "feel" for the back two. At this point the pump assy just lifts out. Remove the motor /pump by removing one bolt and turning it counter clockwise and withdrawing. I put the new one in. Don't forget to put the pump screen in as I missed this and had to redo the job. Reverse all the previous steps being careful to keep the motor guard out of the pump seal area. Use lots of silicon seal grease and check for leaks on first power up. It took me a couple of adjustments to get a leak-free seal.

The dishrack came in one box I opened the box snapped on the rollers and the bumpers and put it in the dishwasher, could not have been easier Thank you partselect

My KitchenAid dishwasher's upper dishrack had several places that were completing rusting out, just leaving the skins of the plastic coating in place. I ordered the upper dishrack - just the dishrack, none of the clips or other items shown in the schematic - and installed it pretty easily. One caution - this is JUST the upper dishrack. If you have two rows of tines that are clipped in and flip-flop back and forth on the left and right wider sides of the rack, you will need to order one or two pieces of part # PS 898500 as well. One of my tine rows was in salvageable shape, so I only needed to order one (in a second order upon discovering I it wasn't included). It wasn't difficult to figure out how the clips could come out and snap back in place. Just be careful, know that these are just plastic items and can break easily.

1, I shut off ac circuit breaker.
2.Shut off water supply valve.
3.disconnected water line from inlet valve.
4. disconnect the drainage hose.
5. have plenty of towels to mop up water.
6. Remove racks and disconnect water diverters inside the tub.
7. remove phillips head screws that hold dish washer to counter.
8, Pull out DW and lay on its side to expose bottom of dishwasher. disconnect the motor terminal plug. and disconnect the temp prope.
9. disconnect the drainage tube and then proceed to remove the 3 plastic clips that hold the pump housing to the tub.
10. I used some silcone grease around the new pump housing to be safe. then I installed the new pump housing and motor in the reverse order.

It probally took me about an hour start to finish, the hardest part was placing new housing back in. The ring around the bottom of tub is very sharp!
Left some blood there.

Disconnected the power and hot water supply.
Removed mounting screws under the counter, and the lower panel screws to expose the leveling screws.
Backed the leveling screws up so that the unit would slide out more easily
Walked the unit out to where I could reach the back side.
Disconnected the two power wires from the heater coil (slide off)
Unscrewed the plastic nuts holding the heater in place and removed the heater coil.
Replaced the heater coil and nuts.
Reversed the process above to install.

First i remove upper rack held in by 2 clips at end of metal tracks. Compress inside clips and pull up then slide rack out of tracks.Then remove bottom rack just pick it up.Then i removed bottom sprayer by unscrewing center thumb screw. Then removed feeder tube for top sprayer held in place by 2 ea. phillips screws one on celin of tub and one at back of tub. Move tube to the right which unlocks it and remove. This has to be done to expose 4 ea. star screws. Remove screws and pop screen cover off. You have to take a towel and soak up water to expose bottom of inlets and outlets for water. You will then see the chopper blade with metal screen behind it. It is held in place with on star screw to the left of round top cover. Remove cover and pull on chopper blade which will release it from fingers mated from shaft to chopper blade .While pulling on chopper blade toward front of dishwasher pull up on metal screen it will come out. Clean all food particals out i used a shop vac worked well. Be careful not to drop screws in water inlets. The plastic shaft was broken in half by a piece of dental floss wrapped around shaft. I hope this helps it was not that diffacult just hard to work over door.

My husband pulled out the dishwasher and removed the faulty part and installed the new one. We found info on the parts source website to assist us. Dishwasher works great!!! Someone from the company we purchased it from had replaced it several years ago, and the seal at the bottom had leaked and the motor had siezed because of the water. We also discoved that the water line was severly kinked in 2 places, so we installed a flexable hose. Now my dishwasher is quiet, fills much faster and all this for a fraction of the price of a new appliance. Would recommend this website.

I watched the instructional videos that showed how to replace the inlet fill hose/water inlet a couple of times. The repair was exactly as shown. No trouble at all.

First I removed the screws holding the outside door panel to the inside door panel. Next (at this was the tricky part) was separating the panels. In our model of dishwasher, there is a layer of Styrofoam between the two panel to reduce noise. Unfortunately the Styrofoam is glued to both panels. Separating it without damage was not possible. So it was done with brute force and the Styrofoam broke in several places.

Replacing the dispenser involved removing six screws, disconnecting the wires and popping the dispenser out. The new one went in easily although there seemed to be a correct amount of tightening to do. It was tricky to get the cover back on because the Styrofoam pieces had to go back together like a puzzle.

Once reassembled, I ran the machine and it leaked at the dispenser. So the cover came back off. This time I played with the adjustment of the dispenser, testing it with the outside cover off, to insure that I had a tight, non-leaking seal. Once done, I put the cover back on and we are back in business.

The new dispensers do not have connections for the "Add Rinse Aid" light. They use a visual indicator on the dispenser itself. I simply taped the wire for the indicator light up and left it inside the door.

One last note, on our unit, the outside door panel is two pieces. I needed only to removed the lower portion for this repair. Unfortunately, I removed both and in the process broke the small plastic end on the door latch requiring me to purchase a new one. Bummer. That was a 10 minute repair though.

Make sure you order 2. One on each side

I simply pulled out the old gasket and pushed the new one in with my fingers. I had to trim about an inch off the length with a utility knife. The seal is nice and tight now and we have no more water leakage.

I snapped on the new part onto the track. It was that easy! :) Thank goodness the part was available from Part Select!
T. Edwards

My 2 parts were delivered very quickly. We had been putting off the repair, mainly because any time you hire a capable repair man, the charge to "walk through the door"is very high. I actually thought about buying a new DW for this reason . . . Then I googleD PARTS, And was lucky to find PARTS SELECT. I was most impressed with the graph layout of the parts, which enables the buyer to actually measure the part being replaced to be sure the correct item is being ordered. The instructions were excellent, and this grandmother took care of the repair, easily.