GSC308PJT05 Whirlpool Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Easily removed the door from the oven by releasing clips attached to the door hinge -- very nicely engineered. Removed about 6 philips head screws to allow the door assembly to be taken apart for access to the glass. Lifted out the broken glass, cleaned the inside of the door, installed the new glass, reassembled the door (a two minute project), and reattached the door to the oven. Cleaning the inside of the door took longer than the actual repair!

I removed the two screws that held the bake element in place. Next I removed the Bake Element. I had to unscrew the oven to go behind it because when one piece off of the element broke, it slide back behind the oven. I pushed the wire back thru the piece holes, connected the Element, and pushed the element with the wires back through the holes. I rescrewed the element in place and the oven. PartSelect helped me to save this year's Christmas.

This built-in oven was slid out of it's space and set on a box. I removed the back cover with nut driver and located the safety overload device. removed nuts and used pliers to remove wires and replace them. The power must be off to do this repair.Replaced the cover and slid back into place. This could be a lot more difficult if your power cord or gas line is not long enough to make it out of your wall space. Or of your oven is attached well to the frame.

My microwave began suddenly making a loud harsh humming noise while cooking food. I did not let it go on long enough to know if it cooked the food or not. I did some Internet research and learned that it was likely the Magnetron. The test for this was to run the microwave for at least a minute on the lowest power setting and see if the noise cycled on and off. It did, so I (actually, my wife) ordered the part from partselect.com using the model number. I was successful in replacing the part, and we are back to microwave popcorn and quick defrost for a price that was less than a service call, however, it was time consuming, required a large work area, and access to 5 out of 6 sides of the unit. So proceed at your own discretion

Caution:

The first thing in every set of repair instructions was to discharge (short-circuit) the capacitor, as it may store large (as in lethal) amounts of electricity even when it is not connected to a power source. I had never done this, but found these instructions:

“Discharging your microwave's capacitor is absolutely essential in preventing injury to your microwave, your tools, and yourself. A capacitor stores a large amount of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged, and it must be discharged before beginning any repair.
A capacitor is discharged by creating a short circuit between each of the two capacitor terminals, and between each terminal and the chassis. The chassis is the metal mounting (bare metal surface) of the capacitor. Read these directions thoroughly before you proceed.
With your microwave unit unplugged, touch the blade of a well insulated screwdriver to one terminal. Gently slide the screwdriver forward until it reaches the other terminal, holding it there for a few seconds. Be aware that this often results in a loud and startling 'POP'.
Repeat this procedure in order to create a short circuit between each capacitor terminal and the chassis (bare metal mounting plate surface). This same method can be applied to a capacitor having three, and not two, terminals.”
I had not run my microwave in over a week, and then while my part was shipping, left my microwave 'unplugged' for more than two days, and my capacitor apparently discharged itself, although I did go through the above procedure carefully and completely - just in case.
Step-By-Step:
1. You must remove your microwave from the cabinets - it is impossible to repair otherwise. This is best accomplished with 2 strong people - my wife and I made it work, but wished for another guy.
a. While supporting the microwave, remove the two screws coming down through the cabinet above.
b. Lift the rear of the microwave as much as possible, then tilt the front down - there is a clip high on the left side, as well as the hinge/clips on the bottom.
c. If you do not lift it off the wall all at once, you may have to lift the rear even farther to remove it from the hinge/clips on the bottom.
Important Note: Always beware of the microwave door, if it is bent or broken and cannot retain a seal, the microwave not function as a safety feature to keep from releasing microwaves.
2. Remove the vent cover on the top/front of the microwave - be careful, it's plastic.
3. Remove the vent cover and light panel on the bottom of the microwave - this is several screws and some simple wire clips.
4. Remove the "shell" (top and sides) of the microwave - this is several more screws on the back. Make sure to remove the plate that is holding the cord in place on the top.
5. Remove the interface panel by the screws on the top (which had been hidden by the vent cover) - the wires can remain attached, just slide it aside.
6. Remove the metal cover on the right side at the rear; this will expose the Magnetron and the Capacitor. Remember to immediately test and discharge the capacitor!

7. After you discharge the capacitor, remove the other cover plate and the support bracket - in case you haven't noticed, this is a time and space consuming operation.

8. You

Removed the oven door by following the straightforward instructions in the user's manual. Removed philips head screws to take the door assembly apart. Removed clips holding the two inner door glass plates, and the two plates. Removed the clamp holding the broken glass plate, then the glass and associated glass fragments. Then cleaned and re-installed the three glass plates and their clamps in reverse order. Re-assembled the door and re-attached to the oven. Only cautionary note is to be careful when removing, handling and re-installing the various glass plates. Watch out for fragments from the broken plate; they can cut you and/or fall on the floor.

It was easy to remove the old element. It only required the removal of two screws and pulling apart the electric connectors. It was just as simple to install the new one.

Important note: hinges are left and right do not mix them up or door will not re-assemble properly and you'll get to do it twice.

Steps I took:

Removed the oven door per the instructions in the oven operator manual. Removed several screws to release the interior steel liner.

Removing the steel liner was a bit of a hassle, Had to manipulate it to get it loose but it eventually came away from the stainless steel exterior door panel.

Disassembled the interior glass layers, there are three. The glass you need to replace is the last layer, of course. removed and discarded the broken glass. Note: the interior glass is not secured by a bracket or screws, it is held in place by compression of the interior steel liner and a another liner that is inside the door assembly (you'll figure this out when you dis-assemble).

Another note: there is a fluffy material gasket between these two liners, use care when you disassemble or the fluffy gasket will turn into confetti.

Take the opportunity to clean all glass and parts of the accumulated oven grease.

Re-assembled door and re-installed...looks good.

Another note, getting the door back together requires a little patience because there are clamping overlaps of the steel liner to the SS exterior door panel. Be prepared to jockey things around a little and make sure all your screw holes are all lined up before you begin to button it up. Remember, hinges are left and right they are not interchangeable.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Turned power to oven off. Removed trim screws and trim. Removed screws that anchored oven in cabinet. Removed oven from cabinet. Removed back panel, tested thermal fuse. Determined it was defective, ordered new part and reversed procedures above to reinstall.

After popping the last few kernals of popcorn, we hear a different kind of pop sound come from our microwave oven. When we looking inside, we found that the glass turntable had broken unevenly in half. Although we didn't understand why it had happned, we did know we'd be without the use of the microwave without a new one. After less than 10 minutes surfing online, I had found the correct part on PartSelect.com and had arranged to have it shipped to me by speedy delivery. Once it arrived, I just popped the new turntable into the microwave and used the box to dispose of the broken one. It could not have been easier and it saved me the cost of a service call and likely further delay.

Safety first , I shut off the circuit breaker . I removed the racks from inside the wall oven . I removed the the wall oven from the niche .Then removed the three sheet metal panels in the rear of the oven exposing the mounting screws that hold the blower down .I removed the wires from the blower motor and then the blower assembly ,then I removed the small duct affixed to the blower assembly by a single sheet metal screw and transferred it to the new blower assembly . I installed the adhesive backed foam strip that is a vibration dampener and reassembled in reverse order.Once the over was returned to its original position in the wall mounting I turned the breakers back on and tested the oven ...AAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ To be fair i must admit that I am not a novice at this 15 years of my working career revolved around HVAC and appliance repair ,still however a novice that is mechanically inclined can perform the same task in about 70 to 80 minutes as opposed to my 35 . That is all there is to it.

Turned the power to the oven off. Took two crews out. Disconnected the old unit, connected the new unit, put the two screws back in and tested the unit.

The glass caps that cover the bulbs screw out by hand. Then, it was just like changing any other light bulb. I put the caps back on, and magically, we could once again see our food cooking. We had asked other repair companies to replace the bulbs when we had other major work done, but they either didn't want to take the time to get a part number, or didn't want to get it for us. On the PartSelect website, it was easy for us to find and order, not to mention we saved at least $75.00 on the service call alone. Thanks PartSelect!

Easy, pulled out the old dis-colored racks and slid the new ones in. I was VERY happy with the quick receipt of my order. If I ever need parts again,this is where I will go

The repair is straight forward. The only complication anyone seems to be having is removing the door ( which is a definate must to do this repair properly). So I would like to add some details about removing the door. The manuel shows the allen wrenches going into what looks like the hinge itself to release it from the oven. This is not the case. The holes that the 5/32 allen wrenches go into are actually behind the hinge itself. I wrapped the allen wrenches with some painter tape to protect the surface of the door and oven from scratching. Then, simply insert the short end of the allen wrenches, one on each side, into the holes behind the hinge. Then as it shows in the manuel, gently close the door. But not all the way. As you get about 80% closed you'll feel resistence. That is the time to grasp the bottom of the door and start to lift it from the bottom, while stablizing it with the other hand holding the handle on the door. The hinge will start to release from the oven as you continue to press it closer to being all the way closed. The hinges will release if you are doing this correctly before the door can be all the way closed.

Hope that helps. Otherwise, once the door is off. Unscrew all the screws...pay special attention to what you are unscrewing and how it all fits together, because you're going to have to put it all back together again. Some of the glass is held in place with clips and some of it is not. Just lay it down flat and be careful to not force anything in or out and you'll find it quite easy.