GLTF2940ES3 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

The hardest part was figuring out how to get the lid off. You simply remove two screws from the back of the lid and jerk and slide the lid towards the back of the machine. Take out the screws that hold the front panel on, tilt the front out and access the lock/switch assembly and replace.

First I removed the two screws that hold the pump in place. I then pulled the pump out and replaced it with the new pump.

I released the door gasket and unscrewed the unit .Labeled the connections. then reconnected reattached, then put gasket back on. Worked like a charm!

I unclipped the old drawer parts from the broken drawer and replaced the old parts onto the new drawer and slid the whole drawer back in the washing machine. It took longer to type this that it did to repair the washer. No tools needed at all.

Following the instructions on your page I was able to see quite clearly what needed to be done. I received the new part promptly and my machine is now working fine. However, the ongoing story with the dryer is another matter.

placed small plillips screwdriver in center hole of old vane and pulled vane toward front of washer and lifted up out of slots. (You need to press down tabs in center of drum slot to insert new ones) Placed new vane at front of slot and squeezed togeather so both sides went in slots and with screwdriver in center hole of vane pushed to rear of washer till vane locked. Incerted screw that came with kit to hold in place DONE.

i removed the front panel, then removed the old pump by taking off the clamps and disconnected the wiring. The new pump had to be reversed before connecting, but it was so easy.

It was as simple as unpluging the old parts and pluging in the new one with no problems we were washing in 30 min. and we recieved the order within two days Thanks great experance!!!

Remove the front lower panel. Remove the 4 plastic pins mounting the shocks using 1/2 inch short socket to hold the detent down as per included instructions. All plastic pins were stuck in place so used needle nose pliers to pull or push out. Lube the pins with grease before reinstall to help them go through the new shocks. Use the included lock nuts to lock the four legs in place as low as possible. Start the washer and level each leg while running so you can tell if the vibration is going away. Tedious method but worked.

I unplugged the washer, turned off hot and cold water at the source. I wrenched off the 2 hoses from the washer (have a towel handy for the residual water in the hoses and keep them elevated until you can drain the residual water out into drain site, where you turn off the water supply). I removed the 2 screws that held the top panel on (back side top corners) & slide off top to see interior. I used screw driver to pop off plastic piece that secures 3 tubes (hot water, cold water & exhaust vent). I then unplugged all 3 wire harnesses from the water valve & temperature wire from left side [assuming you are standing at the back of the machine where you have to be to do all this work]. I then untwisted the exhaust vent plastic tube (large cream tube at far right in machine) & somehow managed to get it pulled out. I then unscrewed the 2 screws from the old water valve- one on left is easy, the one on the right is difficult due to lower position next to exhaust vent - I had to hold my other hand [thankfully I have small hands] under the screw location as my screwdriver was not magnetic so I wouldn't drop the screw into the machine). I then removed the valve assembly by pulling slowly backward & removed. I then just reversed the above to replace the new one. Not bad for my 1st washer fix ever. I've used it 5 cycles now and no issues.

Simple. Remove the drive belt from the pulley. Next remove the retaining screw and remove the old pulley. Put the new pulley on the hub, then insert the retaining screw and tighten securely. Last, replace the belt over the motor and hub pulley. This was the most difficult part as the new belt was quite tight. But once I convinced myself it was the right belt a little more effort yielded results and the belt fit fine.

Apparently the faulty switch was causing the washer to think that the door was open which would pause the wash cycle. The temporary fix was to disconnect/reconnect the door lock/switch assembly, thereby resetting the switch. Eventually though, the switch had to be replaced. The repair was simple. Unplug washer from power. Remove the metal band and spring from around the perimeter of the door seal. (I had to use needle-nose pliers for this step). Loosen the rubber seal near the door latch area only. Remove old latch by unscrewing the two screws, and disconnect all wired connections. Reconnect wired connectors using the new part and screw back on to the washer using the two screws. Reseat the rubber door seal and hold in place using the metal ring and spring you removed in the first step. Plug washer back in to power. That's it.

Removed top cover of washer to get to the door lock mechanism then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove door lock mechanism. I then replaced door lock mechanism with the new one I bought from PartsSelect. The repair job was very easy and took a total of 15 minutes to remove old part and install new one.

First called a repairman.Wanted over $300 to put a new door lock assembly in.Searched the web, found PartsSelect,bought part for less than $75,husband did repair in less than 30 min.
VERY happpy customer.

THANKS

Replaced pump, by removing back panel and removing the two screws holding the pump to the bottom of the machine. The only difficult aspect was dealing with the hose clamps, these were extremely awkward to work with in a confined space. The repair would have been less than 30 min if the hose clamps weren't so difficult to put back in place.