GLER341AS2 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

the catch on the door was worn and cracked.... so I noticed it could be easily popped out with a screw driver and when the new part came in the mail 2 days later, it was just as easy to pop back in with no tools required. Now the door stays shut really good!!!

I determined the problem was the fan wheel and housing. I located the part on partsselect.com, Ordered it and installed the afternoon I got it in the mail. Perfect fit.

I have used partsselect before, always had great luck, great prices, always have the exact part.

removing was easy just open lower rear LH panel . Ordering was easy ,shipping seemed like alot? to install the new belt pop top of dryer I used a screw driver to help. remove front panel 2 screws then it also has about six clips may have to have gloves on so you do not skin your hands like I did.... lots of sharp edges. pay attention to the clips, so if they come off they will not be lost. panel will tilt slightly fwd then raise up and set aside. now you can slip the belt over the drum. I kept all the slack at the top till it was in position. the groved rubber side goes against the drum and the motor pully. then extend the spring tensioner into position . I rotated the drum a few times by hand to make sure everything was in position. replace front. check it is lined up well before forceing clips in. check felt material is properly in place, as you rotate it into position. push down top . good to go. I ran it for awhile watching everything work before placing it back in service. you may want to clean it out some while it is apart I used an air compressor and shop vac simultaniously as that seemed to work best. Wanted my son to do it as I think he had it over loaded as to why it broke? It maybe the bearings are going but it felt solid ?? I should find out in a month or so shich was which! I did not see any easy way to get to grease it. The belt was easy though pretty sure my son could have handled it!

watched video on replacing rear bearing.although rear bearing was not the part(s) i needed to replace, video instructed disassembly procedures to get to the drum glides. this was a very simple and easy to follow video. repair was a breezeand took roughly 25 minutes. the most time consuming segement of repair was vaccuuming out lint,that was 15 minutes. In future, as a preventative, i plan to remove front of machine to clean annually.
Thank you.

First, I shut off the gas & unplugged the dryer. Then I disconnected the vent pipe so I could pull it away from the wall to access the back. Disassembling the dryer was simple.
there are 8 screws: 2 for rear access panel, 2 for top, & 4 for front panel! Once front panel is off, lift back of drum up 2 inches, then forward to get rear bearing out of it's bracket. My rear bearing had worn down so much it was 1/2 the size of the new one! It wore through the bracket down to the metal! I replaced the rear bearing & bracket assembly, as well as the belt & the spring for the belt tensioner! make sure you generously lubricate the new bearing as well as the tensioner pulley! The most time consuming part of this job was cleaning all the lint out the dryer cabinet& cleaning the drum. It works great now! I hope to get a few more years out of it!

The hardest part was getting to the part and removing it and putting it back on. The schematics that you had on your website helped us locate where it needed to go and, hopefully, that will solve our problem.

Removed old guides ( some of the snap in fastners were broken off). REplaced guides by rolling drum, easy to snap in @ drum bottom each time.

The repair was a bit more simple that what I had read here earlier, to see if I could handle it or I would have to call someone. The biggest relief was that I didn't have to remove any of the connectors from the control panel. Only 4 total connectors were removed at the Heating Element itself. Here's the steps I performed: 1) Pop the top off by prying the lid to release the 2 front clips and lift the top all the way up (like the hood of a car). Rest this against a door or wall. 2) Remove the rear access panel (2 phillips screws) on the bottom left of the unit. Remove the tension from the dryer belt and take it off the pully. 3) Go back to the front and remove (4 allen heads) from the back of the dryer drum. The drum should now have some play. 4) remove a plastic retainer that stops the drum from being lifted out. Now you should be able to lift out the drum. There is a ball & socket fitting that needs to come apart. This can be done by sharply lifting straight up. This gives you access to the heating element and you should be able to see where the coil has burned, thus opening the circuit. 5) remove (4 phillips screws) from the back panel of the dryer. Remove two pairs of connectors that attach to the heating element. Now it's out and you can begin the swap of the new element and reverse this process to put it back together. If I had to do this again, it would take less approx 30 minutes.

All I did was push the new part into the machine! So easy!

I took the repair video in with me and set my lap-top on top of the washer.
My dryer did not match the type on the video exactly (mine has the controls in the front instead of on top and in the back) - however - the parts replacement for the rear drum bearing itself was the same.
After getting the front apart and releasing the drum the rest was pretty easy. Didn't really need instructions for the heating element - that was an obvious change out.
The tips on the video changing the rear drum assembly were very helpful.
Just watch the vid and do it! It took me exactly two hours since I was also changing out the heating element and I did it on a Friday night while having a couple tasty beers.
One tip I would give is the old grease in the bearing is very messy and I got it all over my shirt and pants - and when changing that stuff out don't lean on the front of the frame - I did and bent it out of whack a bit.
The dryer runs like new now that it's done!

Put new knob on used no tools very easy!! Knob took 2 days to get fast service

This was a Sears Dryer, also know as Kenmore, This dryer can be stacked or side by side. In this case it was stacked. There are no directions on how to replace this part. For this model made in 2005 the lid of the dryer is held in front by two clips. You open the lid simply by prying the two front corners up with a flat head screw driver. The front of the top lid pops right up. You may have to remove the mounts in back if you cant lift the dryer lid enough to be able to get your hands in. UNPLUG THE DRYER I got a nasty shock. There are two wires on the switch, remember how they go and where they are, that's important. Turn the switch (from the front or back) so that it pops out. Remove and replace the wires put it back in (from behind/top) and twist a 1/4 turn into place. Plug, test and simply push the cover back down onto the clips. Done.

1. The old door handle was just easily pried out and the new one snapped right in place. Job took about one to 2 minutes.
2 and 3. Watched the video on how to take the blower wheel assembly and motor out and then back in. Just copied what the video showed. Really easy. It helps to have an assistant when taking out and installing the dryer drum but not mandatory.

used a putty knife to press the clips away from the door and lift the assembly away out of the door. Used the putty knife to push the clip over the lip and snap the new handle into place

i first looked up the diagram for this model and checked for the best way to take the front cover off the dryer. after removing the front cover i start looking for the wires that connect the door switch and remove the wires. the front cover also supports the weight of the drum, so carefully pull the cover until the drum comes loose. at this point you can visually see the parts of the parts that make up the workings of the dryer. i first noticed the drum was coming out with the front cover at this time i knew the rear drum assembly was broke. i then took the belt loose from tension pulley and slid it off the drum and removed both from the cabinet. after the drum was removed i also noticed the heating was broken in several places. i removed four screws from the heating element assembly and also removed two wire that were connected to the element. with all pieces removed i checked the thermal switches, there are three switches, one on the heating element, one on the vent side and one on the back panel of the cabinet. i then installed the rear drum assembly and the heating element assembly and connected the wires. i then slid the drum almost all the in place and put the new belt around the drum and dropped the rear drum into the bracket that supports the rear drum then run the belt around the tension pulley and around the motor pulley. i then placed the front panel back in place and connected the wires for the door switch and lifted the drum assembly up just enough to insert the front panel door support into the drum and placed the clips in place, checked all connections twice and connected power back to the unit and turned on and run it through all its settings.