GLD6611L18CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Unsnapped clip,and moved it 90 degrees. Slip wheel and clip off. Installed clip on new wheel. replaced new wheel. The wheel did not come with a new clip and was not suggested on the parts list. The existing clip was still OK but if it was not, I would have had to order a clip and wait. All in all, a good experience.

The wheels came with a clip on part that clipped to the rack and the wheel snapped into that clip. I am a woman and it was easy for me to do. Thanks to Parts Select for being an easy to use and navigate site, for quick shipment and for good directions with the parts. Sincerely, Teresa from Alabama.

Remove the front coverfrom the machine. This is done by removing the 3 screws at the bottom of the panel. The panel then drops down and pulls straight off. The pump is located on the front right wall of the of the machine. You will notice a 2-3 inch diamete threaded cap on the right side of the front wall of the machine. This is the front of the pump and access to the filter. Place a large bucket under this cap and slowly loosen the cap. All of the water remaining in the machine will begin to drain (this could be a lot of water. Do not remove the cap completely so that you can quickly stop the flow of water if needed). Once all water is drained from the appliance, Disconnect the two hoses from the pump using a pair of pliers to looses the presure clamps, sliding the clamps back an then pulling off the hoses (be careful of any remaining water in the hoses). Then remove the two screws from the rear base of the pump that secure it to the bottom floor panel of the washer. Slide the pump slightly to the rear to free it from the fittings on the front wall of the machine and the lift the pump up. At this point, firmly pull out the wiring harness plugged into the top right side of the pump. Install the new pump by plugging in the wiring harness and resecuring the pump. Plug in the machine and run on the rinse and spin cycle to test.

Turned off power to unit, 'cuz it has a solenoid lead to open the soap door.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the door.

Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.

Replacement of the arms is very simple, the bottom arm pulls out after turning it counter clockwise, no tool needed. The upper arms need the use of a nut driver or simlar tool to remove the hex screws holding them to the water supply tubes. The hardest part of the repair will be removing the top dish tray. This requires twisting the door slide end retainers outward to remove them and then the dish tray will slide out allowing easy removal of the arm. The top arm is mounted the body of unit.
This problem would not have occurred if there was an inline filter on the cold side to filter out calcium (whole house filter). Another way to have corrected this without the purchase of parts would be to run the dishwasher on the rinse cycle 3 or 4 times using 1 cup of lime away on each rinse and also by removing the arms and soaking the arms in a 50/50 solution of water and lime away for 24 hours. This will break down the calicum and enable the arms to be cleaned using a garden hose. New parts however save time and labor in cleaning the arms, however the main drain and supply lines to the arms still need the rinsing prior to replacing the new parts.

First and formost before you buy read everything in trouble shooting your dishwasher. Then you do not buy parts you do not need. First you turn off power, then water. Remove two screws, a rubber hose and a hard line by unscrewing if you are lucky some contractors might sweat this on. No biggie just two extra steps that's all. do in reverse to assemble...

The hardest part for me was pulling the dishwasher out from under the countertop. Once it is out all you have to do is disconnect the power (or power off the fuse going to the dishwasher) then look underneath the dishwasher and you will see where the two ends of the heating element come through. Disconnect the wires connected to the ends by simply sliding off the connector. Then remove the plastic "nuts" that screw onto the ends of the heating element by turning them counterclockwise counterclockwise. Once the nuts are removed you can reach inside the dishwasher and remove the old heating element and replace it with the new one. Then simply replace the plastic nuts and reconnect the wires and you are good to go.

The repair was very easy and went smoothly. Here's an overview of the steps I followed: I used a shop vac to remove as much water as possible from the dishwasher tub. I turned off the water supply to the dishwasher and then removed two screws that connect the dishwasher unit to the cabinet/counter top. I also removed two screws at the bottom of the dishwasher to remove the dishwasher's kickplate. After that I pulled the dishwasher out and uplugged the unit then tipped it on it's side to gain access to the pump assembly (it's at the bottom of the unit). The drain pump assembly was held in place by two screws and a metal band that connects the pump to the rubber/plastic drain area. Also there are two wire leads needed to be unplugged. I took a picture of the unit before removing anything so I could have a record of what it all looked like assembled. Then I took off the old pump and put on the new and put it all back together. Turned the water back on and ran a quick rinse and spin cycle and all was well! Dishwasher drained properly and there were no leaks. Easy and I saved a bit of money doing it myself.

I took the two drain hoses off with the pliers then only two screws that holds the pump. After that the two hot wires which are black and white. But remember to unplug you're washer since the pump is not grounded you don't want to risk being shocked. Hope thi helps. Plus i saved around 250.00 by repairing myself.

Removed the bottom tray, it just pulls straight out, once the tray was removed, the bottom revolving sprayer just lifts right off. Under this sprayer is a self-cleaning filter. There is a plastic piece that screws the filter into place, this part unscrewed easily by hand. Once unscrewed, the filter lifted straight up. I then reversed the process with the new filter and the problem was solved. Note: The old filter was full of sand and grime.

First you must remove all screws around inside door frame, and remove panel. (I would recommend using something to weight door down after removing panel from door as it will try to continue to close) Flip panel over and remove old seal by simply pulling off, paying close attention to how the seal is fitted and direction it faces. Clean area of any debris,and let the learning curve begin, after several frustrating attempts, I found it easier to install new seal by first installing it backwards by sliding seal along its track and groove, this will allow it to loosen up, then remove it and install the seal by lapping it over the the track and snapping/sliding it into place. The repair itself from the service center would of been $180.00 - $200.00, I did it myself for $39.00. I would recommend anybody with a sense of aptitude and patience to do this repair themselves. After some research I found out that this model and problem is a common repair, which is somewhat ridiculous in my opinion, as the machine itself is only 2 1/2 years old and it came pre-installed in a new home.

Siimply removed the rack and replaced the wheel assembly. Very easy

First I removed the 6 screws that hold the inside cover on the door.Then I remover the plastic cover over the switches,pulled out the switches and disconnected the 2 wires from each switch and connected connected them to the new switches exactly as they were on the old switches.Then reinstalled the switches in their holders.I then removed the plunger and spring from between the switches and installed the new spring and plunger exactly like the old one was installed.I reinstalled the door cover making sure everything was in it's place,I put the screws in the door cover and I was done.It was a very simple job. Mike

1. Remove the outside panel on the door by removing 10 phillips screws on inside of door. Outside panel will drop loose - do not let it drop.
2. There are 3 electrical plugs that will have to be removed. The first is a 2" long quick connect in the upper middle of the door panel - it will pull straight out. Remember where it makes its connection. Now the exterior door panel will drop down to the floor, pivoting on two axle screws at the bottom. The interior panel can be left vertical for ease of access.
3. The other two electrical connections are on the left side of the old dispenser and can be removed with a simple pull to the left.
4. Remove the six (6) phillips screws from the panel that hold the dispenser in position. Two retainers will also drop off, which hold the dispenser top and bottom.
5. Angle the dispenser and work toward the inside of the dishwasher, turning as necessary to remove from the opening.
6. Reverse the process for installation. Remember to reconnect all three electrical connections.

Once upon a kitchen dreary.
Washing dishes made me weary.
All the dishes would not clean.
Gunk clogged up my filter screen.
The lower spray arm stuck and rattled.
With flying muck my dishes battled.
The muck had won and I had lost.
The repairman said it would really cost.
And so I did a google search.
Partselect got me out of a lurch.
Correct parts were easy to choose
and service so quick I couldn't lose.
I took off the old parts and tightened the new
No tools were needed my fingers flew.
And now my dishes come out clean
I feel competent and frugal, you know what I mean?