Parts That Fix Whirlpool Washer GHW9100LW1 Will not drain
Will not drain is a commonly reported symptom for the GHW9100LW1 Whirlpool Washer, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your GHW9100LW1 Whirlpool Washer that will fix Will not drain. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!
Fixes Symptom 91% of time
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time. This part is used on front load models.
$
160.49
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS1485610
Manufacturer Part Number 280187
Replacing your Kenmore Washer Drain Pump Kit
Customer Repair Stories
Water still in tub / tub would not spin
Don't know how they managed to get out of the washer tub, but we found a quarter, dime and penny in the "lint" filter (called the "Cap" in the PartSelect details). The penny managed to get into the impeller and took out 3 1/2 of the 4 impeller blades.
Replacement is very simple, about a 15-20 minute job Be sure the machine is u ... Read more nplugged for safety.Remove the three (3) screws holding the lower front panel and remove the panel. The pump assembly is a white unit about the middle of the opening (the original pump itself was black, the new one is white). Unscrewing the large cap will allow any residual water to drain out (we used a wet/dry shop vac to get most of the water out of the tub first). Following the wires going to the pump, there is a cover over the wiring connector that easily pops up and the connector can be pulled out. Directly below the unit is a screw with a Torx head that has to be removed, then two (2) hoses held with compression hose clamps that need to be removed with pliers. The unit will slide out of the base of the washer. There is a wiring harness in front of this assembly that can be popped loose on one side or the other to get the unit out.
Reversing the steps gets everything back in place.
NOTE: A notice came with my new pump stating that a tab needed to be removed on the wiring connector. It is easily removed by hand.
By the way - that was the most expensive penny I've ever owned! Pockets in jeans are now required to be turned out in our house before they are allowed in the washer!
Replacement is very simple, about a 15-20 minute job Be sure the machine is u ... Read more nplugged for safety.Remove the three (3) screws holding the lower front panel and remove the panel. The pump assembly is a white unit about the middle of the opening (the original pump itself was black, the new one is white). Unscrewing the large cap will allow any residual water to drain out (we used a wet/dry shop vac to get most of the water out of the tub first). Following the wires going to the pump, there is a cover over the wiring connector that easily pops up and the connector can be pulled out. Directly below the unit is a screw with a Torx head that has to be removed, then two (2) hoses held with compression hose clamps that need to be removed with pliers. The unit will slide out of the base of the washer. There is a wiring harness in front of this assembly that can be popped loose on one side or the other to get the unit out.
Reversing the steps gets everything back in place.
NOTE: A notice came with my new pump stating that a tab needed to be removed on the wiring connector. It is easily removed by hand.
By the way - that was the most expensive penny I've ever owned! Pockets in jeans are now required to be turned out in our house before they are allowed in the washer!
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Bob from Clayton, NC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
64 of 69 people
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Washer would not drain ,F02 and SUD code displaying
(1) First I unpluged the washer then I removed the water from the tube with a water vac.(2) Then I removed the three (3) screws that holds the front panel, using a Torx T-20 socket. ( this is a front load washer ). The panel is below the loading door.
(3) I packed towels under the washer.
(4) I slowly removed the cleanout i ... Read more n the front of the pump, using the water vac to catch the water as it leaked out.
(5) I removed the wiring to the motor.
(6) I removed the screw that holds the pump in place with a Torx T-20 socket.
(7) I pulled the pump forward so the clamps that hold the drain hose and discharge hose could be removed using the hose clamp pliers. ( they come off much easier then they go back on ).
(8) I tested the pump and found it would run but was making a lot of noise and running slow.
(9) To reinstall start with number (7) and work backwards to number (1) skipping (3) and (4).
Don Kramer
Wichita, Kansas
(3) I packed towels under the washer.
(4) I slowly removed the cleanout i ... Read more n the front of the pump, using the water vac to catch the water as it leaked out.
(5) I removed the wiring to the motor.
(6) I removed the screw that holds the pump in place with a Torx T-20 socket.
(7) I pulled the pump forward so the clamps that hold the drain hose and discharge hose could be removed using the hose clamp pliers. ( they come off much easier then they go back on ).
(8) I tested the pump and found it would run but was making a lot of noise and running slow.
(9) To reinstall start with number (7) and work backwards to number (1) skipping (3) and (4).
Don Kramer
Wichita, Kansas
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Donald from Wichita, KS
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set
231 of 243 people
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Fixes Symptom 2% of time
This water level switch senses the level of water in the inner tub.
$
118.81
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11755855
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10514214
Replacing your Kenmore Washer Water Level/Pressure Switch
Customer Repair Stories
Washer would stop at different times with code FH
I unscrewed the three small sheet-metal screws holding the washer top to the frame and slid the top aft and laid it on the floor. Then I took fine sandpaper and cleaned the plug contacts from the various components connected to the main control board. After five years or so I have found that most copper connectors will corrode and prevent
... Read more
electricity from flowing properly. That did not correct the problem. I checked the flow control device and it appeared clear and not binding. Then I pulled the drain pump filter and it was clear. I could hear the water pump running and the water flowing out the normal rubber hose. But the washer would stop three or four times during a wash cycle. Pressing 'RESET" and "START" would start the washer again. At the end of the cycle my wife noticed there was water in the washer tub. It had to come in via the water control valve. This is the valve you screw the hot and cold water hose into. It is a ice blue color and held in by one screw. I unscrewed the two hoses and removed the one screw. Then I had to slip the black supply hose from the valve leading to the flow meter. I disconnected the four electrical connectors and installed the new valve and found the screw hole did not align with the screw hole in the washer frame. I used a eighth-inch metal drill and drilled a new hole which lengthened the slot that the mounting screw normally went through. After I re-connected the hot and cold water lines to the valve I turned the water back on and put the top back on the washer. The washer worked like new. No stops. I did notice before changing the valve the water would flow into the washer tub like beer coming from a tap. After installing the new valve the water flowed in at three times the rate like a garden hose.
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David from West Chester, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Washer was reporting F20 (Water Pressure)
After removing the Top Cover and back cover by removing the 3 screws for the top and 10 screws on the back cover to expose the interior of the machine. Remove the rubber hose that was attached to the bottom of pressure switch. Pushed gently upward on the pressure switch until it popped out. Gently press down on the 2 small tabs on the
... Read more
plug and then gently pull the plug out. Placed new pressure switch in place, plugged the connector back into the switch. Also doubled checked the hose to ensure that the tubing has not rubbed a hole it from rubbing on the concrete counter balance. If yes then remove the tube from the bottom of the washer and replace with approximately 2 feet of 3/16 inner diameter/1/4 outer diameter tubing. Attach the new tubing to the bottom of the washer port and the pressure switch. Attach the new tub to the water discharge hose using tie wraps or electrical tape to ensure not to occur again.
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Joseph from BINGHAMTON, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
14 of 18 people
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Fixes Symptom 2% of time
This hose attaches to water pump assembly. NOTE: As per the manufacture if the washer has an Eco Ball, it's no longer needed when the new hose is installed.
$
37.52
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11755212
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10467168
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Pump Hose
Customer Repair Stories
Worn out hose had a hole it it.
I romoved the front of the washer access panel. I then used the pliers to remove the clamps from the old hose and to replaceit with the new one.
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Edward from Clinton, MD
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers
16 of 23 people
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Washer leaking
Opened the front panel with 3 crews T-25 or socket wrench. Panel comes off right away.
Look for the leak. Determined it was the hose. Use power pliers to remove the clamp.
The small clamp was easy. The big one I had to use my yoga to get to it. It probably would had been easy from the back panel but moving the machi ... Read more ne requires brute force.
Once the hose was out I found some bra under wires which is what probably punctured the hose.
Removed the front filter and found a bunch of nails.
Assembly was much easier and placed clamps so that if needed it would be a lot easier to remove and replace.
Look for the leak. Determined it was the hose. Use power pliers to remove the clamp.
The small clamp was easy. The big one I had to use my yoga to get to it. It probably would had been easy from the back panel but moving the machi ... Read more ne requires brute force.
Once the hose was out I found some bra under wires which is what probably punctured the hose.
Removed the front filter and found a bunch of nails.
Assembly was much easier and placed clamps so that if needed it would be a lot easier to remove and replace.
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Alexander from Miami, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
38 of 43 people
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This hose goes from the drain pump to the back of the washer.
$
26.74
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11747970
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10003250
Customer Repair Stories
I was getting a sewer smell when the washer drained I did every cleaning technique and didn't solve the problem then I cleaned the inside drain hose and that helped so I replaced the hose and problem solved.
I removed the back panel to access the top end of the hose then I removed the lower front panel to access the lower end of the hose that attaches to the pump. The hose is secured with spring clamps and they were removed with pliers, the panels are secured with screws.
I replaced the hose and reinstalled the panels and I was do ... Read more ne.
I replaced the hose and reinstalled the panels and I was do ... Read more ne.
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anthony from EASTPOINTE, MI
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This part continually measures the amount of water entering the tub. It will make adjustments if too much or too little water is present.
$
105.05
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11748313
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10110225
Replacing your Kenmore Washer Flowmeter
Customer Repair Stories
FH code-4 minutes into cycle
remove 3 screws of top panel at rear. slide top to rear 1/2 inch and lift up. disconnect wire to flometer, remove clamps on hoses and remove, reverse to install. did not fix problem. ck'd screens at fill valves. ordered new fill valves--problem solved. solenoids must not have been opening up all the way.
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robert from LITLE RIVER, SC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
17 of 19 people
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F/H error code.
Removed the top (3-4 screws at back). Flowmeter has 2 hoses with hose clamps. Removed with plyers. Simple electrical connector removed.
Reversed procedure. Running perfect now.
How did I know it was the flow-meter? Read the service manual as possible causes to narrow it down. Disassembled old flowmeter and cleaned ... Read more . That fixed for awhile. Problem came back, could 'tap' on flowmeter to temporarily fix. This convinced me that was indeed the problem.
The flowmeter is just a simple vane that moves as water flows across it, and sends pulses each time it rotates. If it 'sticks' then the computer doesn't think any water is coming in - hence the error. Tapping on it would 'unstick' long enough to confirm problem.
Reversed procedure. Running perfect now.
How did I know it was the flow-meter? Read the service manual as possible causes to narrow it down. Disassembled old flowmeter and cleaned ... Read more . That fixed for awhile. Problem came back, could 'tap' on flowmeter to temporarily fix. This convinced me that was indeed the problem.
The flowmeter is just a simple vane that moves as water flows across it, and sends pulses each time it rotates. If it 'sticks' then the computer doesn't think any water is coming in - hence the error. Tapping on it would 'unstick' long enough to confirm problem.
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Jeff from Naples, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
58 of 64 people
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This part regulates the temperature of the water in the tub. The sensor is located in the heating element.
$
37.33
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11755214
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10467289
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Temperature Sensor
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Temperature Sensor
Customer Repair Stories
Washer posting a f6 error
This was an easy fix . PartSelect was quick and had all the info I needed to repair my washer. Plus shipping was super fast. Thanks
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Robert from Salt Lick, KY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
36 of 110 people
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Replacing the heat sensor following an F-24 Error Notice.
I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" ... Read more into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" ... Read more into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!
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william from VIRGINIA BCH, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
2 of 2 people
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
Used with some front load washers. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired temperature, or amount of water needed.
$
75.56
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11744913
Manufacturer Part Number WP8181694
Customer Repair Stories
water leaked into drum while machine when turned off
1. Removed the 4 screws across the top of the back of the washer which hold on the washer top.
2. slightly lift the backside of the washer top and pull/ slide to the back to remove. Top will unlatch and and lift off.
3.Remove the star screw that attaches the water valve to the back of the washer.
4. Remove hose clamp and 4 ... Read more wire clips from water vale assembly and replaced with new valve.
5. Reverse order to reassemble.
2. slightly lift the backside of the washer top and pull/ slide to the back to remove. Top will unlatch and and lift off.
3.Remove the star screw that attaches the water valve to the back of the washer.
4. Remove hose clamp and 4 ... Read more wire clips from water vale assembly and replaced with new valve.
5. Reverse order to reassemble.
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Douglas from Maitland, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
58 of 61 people
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Tub of front load washer was slowly filling with water when machine was empty/off
Pulled out machine...removed top panel..unscrewed existing valve and removed it...then reversed the whole process with the new valve..it was very easy to do and worked perfectly...no more water in tub!
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Andrea from Chelmsford, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
140 of 150 people
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
$
12.00
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11747972
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10004260