GHW9100LW1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

I first had to take off the back and the top to get to the pulley and the belt. The pulley had woobled so much that it had worn out the center nad it would no longer hold to the post in the tub. It also had cut into the back of the tub about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I unscrewed the nut holding the pulley and removed it. I then took a knife and trimmed the rough edges off the back of the tub to make it smooth. I then smoothed out the end of the post that the pulley fits on so the new pulley would fit. I tightned the nut and put the belt on the motor drive shaft and Used a robo grip to hold the belt as I turned it onto the pulley. I but the back and top back on and that was it.

This washer had been faulting since it was 1 year old but it only happened 1 to 2 times a year. As the fault problem became more often, I realized it was a hardware or computer malfunction. But what was the problem? Well the problem always was a faulty flow meter. I replace the valve and the flow meter. But I tested the flow meter several times.-- I replaced the flow meter and the valve. And for once in 5 years it did not fault.

Serviceman had previously replaced the hot and cold inlet valves, but the low pressure error persisted. Rather than cough up another $130 for the serviceman to return, plus parts and time, I decided to order the replacement flowmeter from PartSelect.

Unplug power and turn off water. Top of machine comes off by removing three screws at top rear; use socket, spanner or T20 driver. Unplug electric sensor from flowmeter. Old unit is removed, and new one connected to water line by squeezing spring-clips with a pair of flat nose pliers. Reconnect electric sensor.

Great move, easy, and saved myself the thick end of $200.

I wasted 2 years washing clothes in mu Duet before I repaired it in just two minutes. In those 2 years we destroyed numerous articles of clothing because the missing baffle left sharp metal corners that cut holes in to so many of our clothes. The replacement baffle was easy to find on partselect.com as were installation guides. I can't believe how easy it was!

Removed the top panel. Removed the control panel (one screw behind the detergent drawer). Removed the three screws that held the door latch and switch (pushed it through). Removed the spring-loaded wire that fastens the boot to the door panel(look very closely around the bellow around the opening for the door). Removed the four screws at each corner of the front panel and removed the panel (door still intact). Loosened the band clamp that holds the bellow to the tub. Removed the vent tube from the old bellow and installed on the new bellow. Installation is the reverse of the removal. One tip: when installing the spring-loaded wire around the door panel opening, use several small (padded end) spring clamps to hold the wire in place as you install the wire. If you do not, the areas that you have installed will come undone. Be sure to be careful and use padded ends so that you lessen the likelihood of puching a hole in the new bellow.

Secondary problem was bleach being siphoned from dispenser prematurely when drawer slid in. Replaced Drawer, Detergent Container and Bleach Siphon parts. Appears to have been a change in the siphon design when compared to the original factory part. 5 loads completed since replacement of these parts with no premature siphon of bleach or leakage down the front of the washer.

I romoved the front of the washer access panel. I then used the pliers to remove the clamps from the old hose and to replaceit with the new one.

simple removal of few screws holding the washer panels and replacing bellow. 20 minutes to complete entire job. Kenmore mechanical washer design is very simple so all components access is very easy.

The repair was rather easy. It involved the removal of all the bolts around the glass door and only the bolts on the hinge conected to the washer itself. there was a bit of alignment problem when put back together, minor rubbing, but not much. The door now works close to as good as new.

After removing the Top Cover and back cover by removing the 3 screws for the top and 10 screws on the back cover to expose the interior of the machine. Remove the rubber hose that was attached to the bottom of pressure switch. Pushed gently upward on the pressure switch until it popped out. Gently press down on the 2 small tabs on the plug and then gently pull the plug out. Placed new pressure switch in place, plugged the connector back into the switch. Also doubled checked the hose to ensure that the tubing has not rubbed a hole it from rubbing on the concrete counter balance. If yes then remove the tube from the bottom of the washer and replace with approximately 2 feet of 3/16 inner diameter/1/4 outer diameter tubing. Attach the new tubing to the bottom of the washer port and the pressure switch. Attach the new tub to the water discharge hose using tie wraps or electrical tape to ensure not to occur again.

First and foremost, I usually call a real man to come do a job like this, but after reading the repair stories, I gave it a shot. Very, very easy. Pop of the bottom panel off (three torx screws), drain the water out of the tub (if any), and just follow the directions in the box. Anyone can do this one.

Pretty easy part replacing job. All screws were torx. Pry off plastic molding from front of machine where it covers the hinge with an old thin table knife or something, loosen the plastic molding inside the door, and replace the hinge. Minor hint... put the little round plastic molding back on the round part of the hinge BEFORE you screw the hinge onto the door.

Brother who used to sell appliances opened the washer door and read the booklet inside the washer telling him the part necessary to repair the problem. $33/00 for the water flow meter Part and shipped in next morning and arrived overnight. Excellent service for only $7.00 shipping. Highly recommend this place for parts. This was after a couple of days searching the internet for those with the same problem and not receiving and exact part to fix the problem

Removed three mounting screws to the front access panel, removed panel, cleaned out drain trap, attempted to reset and drain washer, pump did not operate. Removed one wire harness to pump, two hose clamps and slipped pump assembly out of its mounting grommets, and installed new pump in reverse order. A sinch! And saved me approximately $150.00 bucks in repair service fees.

The best way to do it is not the way I started.
The best way is to 1st remove the bellow's front clamp with a small screwdriver at the spring. 2. unplug the 3 sets of wires attached to the lock. 3. remove the 3 screws on the front that hold the lock. 4. remove the plastic ribbon harness that attaches to the lock. 5. remove the old lock. 6. install the lock back carefully moving aside the cables. 7. install the 3 screws. 8. attach the ribbon harness. 9. attach the cables. 10. replace the bellow. 10. replace the clamp (here you may need someone's help to keep the rubber in place.) 11. the last part to fall in place is where the spring is. 12. If you can't do all by tact then you may want to remove the 3 screws from the top cover to be able to c where all fits.