GHW9100LW1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Removed screws, took cracked handle off, put new handle on, and replaced screws. So simple.

So easy - i just replaced the door handle with screw driver

While looking at the new baffle it became evedent that I would need to remove the top of the unit to secure the new baffle to the drum. This was easly done by removing the top of the unit. I removed the three screws from the top back of the unit. Once the top was off I located the inlet tube for the detergent to the drum. I was able to spin the drum and locate the underside of the baffle by looking through the hole where the tube had been attached . I then installed the baffle and snapped it in place. I turned the drum to locate the hole again and installed the screw that was supplied with the new baffle. I then returned the tube back to the location it had orginally been installed. I returned the top and reinstalled the screws to the back of the unit. Whrilpool wanted to replace the entire drum at a cost of $480.00 for the part alone. This is much more cost effective with just a small bit of work. I have contacted Whrilpool for the part number and they would only tell me that I needed a whole drum. I was contacted by a rep from Whrilpool and she told me that I was wrong I could not have done this without replacing the whole drum. My wife will tell all who ask that this unit is working wonderfully.

Opened the front panel with 3 crews T-25 or socket wrench. Panel comes off right away.

Look for the leak. Determined it was the hose. Use power pliers to remove the clamp.

The small clamp was easy. The big one I had to use my yoga to get to it. It probably would had been easy from the back panel but moving the machine requires brute force.

Once the hose was out I found some bra under wires which is what probably punctured the hose.

Removed the front filter and found a bunch of nails.

Assembly was much easier and placed clamps so that if needed it would be a lot easier to remove and replace.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Turn off both hot an cold water supply valves. Unscrew both hot and cold supply hoses from rear of washer making note of which inlet they came off of. Pull washer out to access screws to remove top cover and water inlet valve. Remove top cover unscrewing 3 torx screws on the rear of the washer. Unplug the 4 wires wires from water inlet valve - make sure you remember which pairs go to which solenoid. Remove 1 phillips head screw that secures the water inlet valve to the back of the washer. Remove water inlet valve. With a pair of pliers loosen the hose clamp and remove the hose from the inlet valve. Take the new water inlet valve and loosen hose clamp with pliers and push the hose onto the barbed fitting as far as it will go. Make sure hose clamp is over barbed fitting securing the hose. Attach both pairs of wires to the solenoids in the same position that you removed them. Position water inlet valve into place and secure with phillips screw. The part that I received did not quite line up with the hole on the rear of my washer so I had to elongate the existing hole on the rear of the washer with a drill so I could secure the water inlet valve as designed. Screw on both water supply lines making sure the hot and cold are screwed back on to the right inlets. Turn both water supply valves on and test looking for leaks. Secure the top cover back on with the 3 torx screws and push washer back into place. Viola! Ready for the next load of wash.

After disassembly per the video, I identified the plastic bracket holding the button had broken allowing the hold to start button to shift from pushing the red button on the circuit board to start the door latching cycle. I glued the plastic bracket with JB Weld after holding it in proper position with Gorilla Tape. After letting it dry over night, I reassembled and the original Hold to Start button worked fine. I did not need the replacement button as I originally thought. The disassembly process took 15 minutes. Take the time to break the front of the washer down per the video prior to ordering parts.

Like most folks, my daughter has tossed the shipping bolts after her puechase, I moved her the first time w/o any thought to it but commercial movers won't do that, they will chg. you to have it done and it's not cheap, akin to an appliance repair. This kit contains all four bolts/spacers, (2) upper and (2) lower. Hard to tell from the decription but a sweet gal on the help desk assured me of it. Got it fast and got them installed in minutes, easy to do and wrote a big note on the back of the washer to save them!! No idea why your owners book says "do not reuse".

Take off 3 screws at back of top panel and remove. Remove screw to the left of the soap dispenser and push tab on the right inside the machine to remove control panel and lay the panel on top of the machine without disconnecting. Remove 3 screws on the bottom to remove the bottom panel. You have to pull a bit hard to get it off. Remove 3 screws to push through the door lattch and safety switch. Push the window washer nozzle head through the bellow along with the soap feed nozzle.Remove the retainer wire/spring from the bellow where it attaches to the middle panel/inlet. Remove two screws at the top of the middle panel and two screws on the bottom to remove the middle panel with door attached. Loosen the retainer strap ( a large hose clamp) which anchors the bellow to the tub. Remove the plastic nozzle from the window wash hose and mount it in the new bellow. I couldn't get the plastic retainer washer off the nozzle but managed to seat the bello between the washer and the nozzle anyway. Connect the hoze to the nozzle making sure it's pointed in the correct direction. Pull the oblong soap dispenser nozzle into the corresponding bello opening. Seat the bellow around the internal tub opening and place the large hose type clamp, after unthreading it, around the bellow and tighten. Install the middle panel and attach the door latch and safety switch. Now seat the front part of the bellow to the middle panel and attach the retainer hoop/spring. This is a little tricky. I moistened the front rim of the bellow so the hoop would slide over the edge better. You have to stretch the spring to get it to seat properly. Having experience changing bicycle tires helps. Then install the control panel and other panels.

The Part Select website has some great information provided by customers. I search my error code problem that shut down the washer when filling and found the most likely scenario was a faulty flowmeter.
The other problem happening at the same time was the drum filling with water when the appliance was not in use. I thought the two problems were related, but upon further research decided that the most likely cause was a faulty water inlet valve.
I order the parts from Part Select and I could not believe how fast the shipping was. I just ordered regular ground but the parts got here in a couple of days.
The repair was easy. Remove four screws (need a star bit) from the top lid of the washer and remove the cover. The flowmeter and the water inlet valve sit right on top of the washer. Even with the lousy set of pliers I used, removing the clamps and disconnecting the hoses on both parts was easy off and easy back on. I had more trouble with the electrical leads on the water inlet, only because they were on so securely and I didn't want to rip out the wiring.
All together the repair for both parts took about 30 minutes.
Make sure you turn off the water supply and be ready to mop up a little excess water from the water supply lines when you disconnect them from the washer's water inlet valve.

Had to take the entire front of the washer off to replace the door latch.

We had to bread the hinge that had rusted out. That was the worst part. Putting the new hinge was no big deal. The time factor was also great. I called on Monday and had the part by Thursay. With a family of 6 a washer is a huge necessity.

This repair involved basically completely disassembling the washer. I found a reasonably usable set of step-by-step directions that got me most of the way through the process. Where there were gaps or steps missing, I was able to improvise.

The problem with my washer was that the bearings for the inner tub were shot. The only way to repair this problem is by replacing the rear outer tub. This is because the bearings and the water seal are pressed in place on the rear outer tub assembly and cannot be removed and replaced separately. It makes for a very expensive part.

Here are the steps I found elsewhere on the PartSelect forum:

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Remove the washer top.

Disconnect the touch pad/led assembly ribbon connector from the left side of the central control unit and release if from the wiring harness brackets on the right side of the washer top.

Remove the detergent dispenser drawer by pressing down on the release tab at the back of the drawer and pulling it completely out to the washer.

Once the drawer is removed, remove the screw in the recessed hole next to the drawer opening.

Release the tab securing the right side of the console to the washer and remove the console. Be sure the ribbon cable clears the cabinet frame.

Removing the washer front panel will require that the door switch be removed and the boot be separated completely from the front panel opening.

Access to the door switch requires that the water seal boot be removed from the front of the washer.

Use a flat bladed screwdriver at the location of the retainer spring and pull the retainer forward and then off the perimeter of the boot.

Ease the edge of the boot off of the lip of the washer front.

The door switch is secured to the washer front panel with three screws. Once these screws are removed, the door switch will remain in place until it is lifted slightly and pulled back from the washer front panel.

Remove the two screws securing the bottom of the front panel to the washer, and the two screws securing the top of the front panel to the washer.

Remove th detergent dispenser assembly.

Separate the water inlet and window washer tube from the boot.

Pull the water inlet tube from the outlet connector of the detergent dispenser.

When reinstalling the water inlet tube, wet the water inlet gasket on the detergent dispenser with water only. Do Not Use any other lubricant.

Remove the screw securing the front of the detergent dispenser assemble to the top front frame.

Disconnect the vent tube from the detergent dispenser assembly.

Remove the screw securing the detergent dispenser assembly to the top left frame member.

Slide the assembly back sightly and lift the assembly out.

To remove the detergent dispenser motor assembly, disconnect the cam follower spring and lift the cam follower from the diverter locate the diverter cam clockwise to access the motor mounting screws.

Disconnect the wiring harness from the heating element.

There are three concrete weights attached to the tub assembly. All three must be removed for safe removal of the tub assembly.

Access to the weight on the top front of the tub requires removing the six screws securing the top front frame member from the washer and removing the frame member.

Access to the weight on the top back of the tub requires removing the two screws securing the upper transport brace to the washer and removing the brace.

Each weight is secured to the tub by three bolts.

Remove the three bolts and lift the weight from the tub.

Remove the flat nuts from the tub for safekeeping.

At the back of the tub assembly, remove the belt.

To remove the pulley from the basket, Place the handle of a crescent wrench through the pulley and into the steel bearing hub to keep the pulley from turning.

Use a socket wrench to remove the nut securing the pulley to the basket.

Disconnect the ground wire from the bearing hub.

Remove the screw securing the left end of the pressure tube connector tot

Remove the lower front cover there are three small torx type screw. The pump is the very first thing you see. Have a wet and dry Vac available you will need it. The drain pump and the drain lines contain a lot of water. Unscrew the big white drain plug at the pump and clean up the water, remove the front small mounting screw and disconnect the two hoses in the back of the pump with pliers and follow the pre-printed steps in reverse. If your machine is more than six years old you will have to use a utility knife and remove a piece of plastic on the electrical connector that is from the washer wiring, if you force the connection on it will brake, look at the connection and the plug and attempt to plug it in before you install the pump. It is easy just be-aware of the connector.

First i remove the 2 screws that hold the door handle and take out the broken piece, put the new one and then put the screws on their place. It couldn't be EASIER!!!!!

Also I want to tell you that Im form Costa Rica and the best thing is that I order this on Sunday at 3pm and I receive this part on Thursday, FASTEST SHIPPING EVER!!!

THANKS FOR EVERYTHING, I HOPE THAT WE CAN DO MORE BUSINESS AGAIN!!! HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!!