GBS279PVQ04 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Something Kitchen Aid wont tell you but running a self clean on this model stove blows the fuse located on the back of the stove.

First I slid the stove out and removed the back of the stove held in place by 8 Phillips screws. The thermostat fuse is located near the top middle on the back of the stove. Remove the 2 screws holding it in place. Disconnect the wires, plug in the new part. Put it all back together. Job done in less than 30 minutes.

This repair would have cost $164 through A&E factory service.

The first thing I did was to remove the oven door by releasing the two latches on the hinges (by hand). I then raised the door toward the vertical position and lifted up. The hinges slide out of the oven housing. I laid the door, inside face up on my island counter top. This ensures that none of the parts will fall when disassembling the door. Next I unscrewed the screws 4 top and bottom and four on the inside face. This releases the frame from the front housing. Lift the frame off the door, exposing the glass pieces. Lift off the broken inside glass and place the new piece in the glass retaining housing. Replace the outside frame and replace all screws. Take door back over to oven and slide hinge bottoms back into slots on oven. Rotate to horizontal position and flip latches back to locked position. Total time was about 10 minutes mainly because I was curious how the door was constructed and I poked around while it was disassembled.

My wife used the self cleaning function for the first time after 1.5 years of owning, of course out of warranty. A quick google search identified the problem. Called Kitchenaid, they said of course it can't be that simple, they had never heard of this problem, need to schedule a service call. Googled and found this site, Ordered the part, came in, only took a screwdriver and about 20 minutes, just like all the other posts.

shame on Kitchenaid for not owning up to the problem. I even e-mailed them all the links, they did not acknowledge them.

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

My husband did the repair and said it was very easy to do with the following instructions that I got from the Fix Ya website.

This is a design flaw in the Kitchenaid convection ovens. I can help fix this problem if you have a built in oven (I don't know if the parts are located in the same place for stand alone ovens). First it is not a FUSE that has blown rather it is the thermostat in the rear of the oven. (Part #4452223) This small part cost about $37 US and after shipping it will cost you about $47. I tried to get an estimate from an electrician as to what of frustration I decided to tackle the problem mthey would charge for the part and to come out and fix the oven an the price was about $90 for the part and anywhere between $100 and $170 more for the service call + repair! After a day myself.

The very first thing you must do is shut off the circuit breaker to the oven and put a very large sign on the panel that reads DO NOT TOUCH! That is 220 volts to that oven and while most panels have just the oven ont circuit you dont want anyone reactivating that circuit by mistake!

The next part requires a little work. Find the side panel screws (usually located in the oven door) and remove the two panel flanges that cover the 2 or 4 mounting screws that keep the oven in the wall. Now go underneath the oven and find the power junction box, take off the cover and disconnect the wires that run from the oven. Remember which goes where. Next remove the little nut that holds the electical conduit cable to the junction box then loosen the wires. Once this is done you can now slide the oven out and get to the thermostat.

This part requires a little elbow grease. Find a platform or table that fits just under where the stove will slide out and slide the oven on top of the table or whatever for support. In the back of the oven there will be a sheet metal panel that covers the thermostat and other wires, remove the 5 or 6 screws that hold this panel on and put the panel aside. Almost in the middle of the oven's back you will see a little black device with two wires running out of it (one red the other white or yellow). It will have the part number on its front, remove the wire and notice that the thermostat is half red and half white (remember this for the new part will have the same markings) the red wire goes onto the lead coming from the red markings. When you have the new part simply put the new one in (remember: the red side to the red wire), attach it to the back of the oven, replace the sheet metal cover and slide the oven back into place securing it with the screws. Viola! you are done! Turn on the power and then test the oven (I used the broil setting to warm it up then switch to a temperature setting). The entire process took me about an hour and I am NOT a handyman!

Very easy once we figured out how to remove the oven door - which was insert the Allen keys in the holes in the hinges and pull the door out. We thought there was some way of using the Allen key to undo a pin or bolt but it was as simple as putting it through the hole in the hinge !!!!!

Don't, Don't, Don't!!!!!!! call a repair man to replace the thermo fuse. If you are able to use the T.V. remote and crack a twist top off a cold beer, then you can DO this. I am 47 years old and half retarded and my 84 year old neighbor and I completed this task in 12 minutes. Turn off the breaker panel, pull the oven out, (it is hard wired). We placed it on a 4 wheeled dolly. Unscrew 11 screws, pop the panel. The fusee is at the top/center with two screws holding it. Pull the two wires off, screw it back in place. Put back the panel & 11 screws. Put the oven back in place. Turn on the breaker and you are done. PS Tell your wife or girl friend this might take an hour or so. Send her to the store for a six pack & steak.

Ordered the glass and read the other reviews/instructions on the PartSelect site. Also read the instructions in my owner's manual for removing the oven door. The hardest part of replacing the glass was the removal and replacement of the door. Once I had the door out, replacing the glass was as simple as removing about 8 or so screws, lifting off the cover and replacing the glass, then replacing the screws. One of the hinges on the door had closed and I was not able to open it to replace the door, so I had to have a neighbor come over to over his muscle power. The hinge problem should not have happened and without that little issue, this is a simple repair that I'm sure saved me at least $100.00 on repairman! And - I'm a woman!

I used the instructions from another user on this site and the instructions were great. First look in your oven manual to see how to get the oven off-hardest part of repair. Before removing door-duct tape the broken glass. Remove door. Lay door down on flat surface and keep track of screws as you take them out. Remove outer liner-we removed 6 screws total. Replace glass with new glass. Reattached outer liner back onto door. Replace door. This is a GREAT site. Thanks.

Very simple. I removed two screws holding the oven in place. Slid oven out onto the kitchen floor - it doesn't really weigh that much. I then removed about a dozen screws holding the back panel in place. I removed the back panel, disconnected the thermostat by unscrewing a single screw and pulled the defective part from the connectors. I then installed the new thermostat, screwed the back panel back on, slid the oven back into place and re-secured with the two screws. Voila! Repair done. The whole procedure took about 15 minutes and was not difficult at all.

Took longer to take door off than replace glass.The door would have come off easy if I had read the instructions that came with the oven

Pull it away from the wall and take everything off the back. Unscrew the element cover, cut through the insulation and remove the part. Not easy, watch for sharp sheet metal edges

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Used a Phillips head screw driver to remove cover that was covering the over bottom 1/3 of the installed gasket. I then used flathead screwdriver to help remove gasket from the "pins" that were in the gasket that held it to the oven. Installed new gasket inserting pins into the oven. Then I installed cover over bottom 1/3 of gasket. Overall process was very easy

Replaced oven temp sensor, removed oven door and interior racks for easy access to oven upper rear sensor access. Used philips head screw driver to remove both screws, gently pulled old senor out of reat oven wall until electrical connector clear of rear wall, disconnected connector, connected new sensor and gently pushed wiring and connector back into opening, reinstalled door and racks. Ran open thru cycle and used oven thermometer to check temp. fast easy install