GBS277PDQ11 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

The first thing I did was to remove the oven door by releasing the two latches on the hinges (by hand). I then raised the door toward the vertical position and lifted up. The hinges slide out of the oven housing. I laid the door, inside face up on my island counter top. This ensures that none of the parts will fall when disassembling the door. Next I unscrewed the screws 4 top and bottom and four on the inside face. This releases the frame from the front housing. Lift the frame off the door, exposing the glass pieces. Lift off the broken inside glass and place the new piece in the glass retaining housing. Replace the outside frame and replace all screws. Take door back over to oven and slide hinge bottoms back into slots on oven. Rotate to horizontal position and flip latches back to locked position. Total time was about 10 minutes mainly because I was curious how the door was constructed and I poked around while it was disassembled.

I removed the two screws that held the bake element in place. Next I removed the Bake Element. I had to unscrew the oven to go behind it because when one piece off of the element broke, it slide back behind the oven. I pushed the wire back thru the piece holes, connected the Element, and pushed the element with the wires back through the holes. I rescrewed the element in place and the oven. PartSelect helped me to save this year's Christmas.

This built-in oven was slid out of it's space and set on a box. I removed the back cover with nut driver and located the safety overload device. removed nuts and used pliers to remove wires and replace them. The power must be off to do this repair.Replaced the cover and slid back into place. This could be a lot more difficult if your power cord or gas line is not long enough to make it out of your wall space. Or of your oven is attached well to the frame.

It was easy to remove the old element. It only required the removal of two screws and pulling apart the electric connectors. It was just as simple to install the new one.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Turned power to oven off. Removed trim screws and trim. Removed screws that anchored oven in cabinet. Removed oven from cabinet. Removed back panel, tested thermal fuse. Determined it was defective, ordered new part and reversed procedures above to reinstall.

Turned the power to the oven off. Took two crews out. Disconnected the old unit, connected the new unit, put the two screws back in and tested the unit.

The glass caps that cover the bulbs screw out by hand. Then, it was just like changing any other light bulb. I put the caps back on, and magically, we could once again see our food cooking. We had asked other repair companies to replace the bulbs when we had other major work done, but they either didn't want to take the time to get a part number, or didn't want to get it for us. On the PartSelect website, it was easy for us to find and order, not to mention we saved at least $75.00 on the service call alone. Thanks PartSelect!

Very easy once we figured out how to remove the oven door - which was insert the Allen keys in the holes in the hinges and pull the door out. We thought there was some way of using the Allen key to undo a pin or bolt but it was as simple as putting it through the hole in the hinge !!!!!

Recieved the part promptly. From looking at the diagrams, we knew the overload thermostat was located on the back of the oven. We removed the screws, brackets, etc, slid the oven out, which for us was fairly easy as it's an under counter oven. Located the thermostat, removed it, replaced the new one, connected two clip wires, replaced the oven, turned the power back on and it works like a champ. Total cost was under 50 bucks.

I used a cordless screwdriver to remove the retaing screws. One of the connections was pucshed back too far and was almost hidden in the hole. I used the tweezers to pull it out, replace the bake lelement and the retaining screws. I'm good to go!

It was relatively "easy" at age 74. Needed phillips screwdriver and needle nose pliers (not nut driver). Put 2 binder clips on connection wires so they would not fall back behind oven. Figure I saved about $100-$200 for less than 30 minutes work.

2 screws &2 push pull wires.

Sensor replacement was removing 2 screws and gently pulling on old sensor until the clip comes out. Secured the other end of the wires so that it did not fall back inside. Then connected the new sensor clip to the oven wire, then gently returning wire into oven, and then screwing the sensor into place.
The baking element was easier than the sensor. Removed the 2 screws holding the element into the back bottom of the oven, and pulled the element forward to disconnect from clamps. Inserted new element into clamps and screwed it in. ***NOTE that there will be a smell from the new element. This smell is normal. If the smell continues after a couple minutes stop the oven and wait an hour before reattempting.

Replacement of the thermal overload safety thermostat very straight forward after sliding unit out, killing power and removing two covers. Tested both old and new and both show continuity (= good). Installed new, restored power and tested for proper operation. Didn't happen. Replaced original and now have new as spare. Now suspect the double line break relay on electronic control board is failed and source of problem. It is common to both elements and immediate before the suspected thermostat in circuit.