FRS6LF7JW3 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Unscrewed the water line cover. Removed the platic case around the water filter base. Everything went well until I tried to remove the two water hoses. After I finally figured out that I had to push in the release washer while pulling the hoses out, things went well. Unfortunately it took several hours of wasted time and several searches on the internet to finally figure this part out. From there on out it went smoothly. Old base came out with two screws. Reversed process for reinstall of new base. Water hoses just slipped back into place and locked themselves in. Just takes a little patience.

The radiator was not being properly defrosted and the refrigerator and freezer could not keep the temperature. Two things can be causing this, the defrost module which defrost the refrigerator on a regular basis ($110) or the thermostat ($18). I tried the thermostat since it is very easy to do (remove cover plate inside the freezer, cut wires of old thermostat, connect new thermostat by stripping wires. Presto...however the thermostat was NOT the problem. The problem was a blown timer circuit board that controls the regular defrosting. That repair was done by a technician. The board was $110, it seats inside the refrigerator in the control panel area.

This process was so easy. I put in the model # and saw the piece I needed immediately along with a picture of it that helped me confirm it was the right one. All I had to do is snap the shelf in when it arrived.

Unplug turn water off
Removed two screws with nut driver loosen one
Disconnected three solenoid valves
Disconnected four water lines
Plug tubing in, tighten one flare fitting
Reattach wires to solenoids
Slide under loose screw, replace two screws
Turn water on check for leaks plug in get a drink of water

Loosen two screws, unclip electrical connection, remove ice maker, remove l shaped leveling piece of metal from old one, put on new one. Install in reverse order. Hint.. when loosening two screws, use a mirror

Remove both crisper pans and covers. Discard old frames and re-use glasses. Use two screw drivers to gently pry out broken supports. Top broken off smooth on one support. Unable to grasp with pliers to pull out. I drilled a small hole in the center of the large expansion pin. I screwed in a small sheet metal screw. Used side cutter pliers to grasp screw and gently rock back and forth to remove center of large pin. Plucked out broken pieces with needle nosed pliers. Gently tap in expansion pins to install new supports. The rest is simple re-assembly using new parts. "Nothing to it but to do it."

Just snapped into place. Very easy.

The door has nylon gear teeth that wore out and needed replaced. The ice chute came off very easy with 6 screws. I used a punch and pliers to remove the hinge pin. Then the door came off and the new one put on. Very easy. The part was ordered on Sunday and arrived on Tuesday.

Project requires removal of 9 phillips head screws. Also have some needle nose pliers and a paper clip and/ or skinny magnet handy for steps (7) and (9).

(1) Turn off power to refrigerator.
(2) Slide out water catch tray at bottom of dispenser unit.
(3) Remove the three screws that are now visible.
(4) Pull front water/ ice dispenser (cosmetic) panel off of the refrigerator and set aside.
(5) Remove the 3 screws affixing circuitry panel in place and set aside.
(6) Gently pull out the circuit panel and allow it to hang from the refrigerator door. Note: Unless you have very large hands you should not have to disconnect any wiring to do this repair.
(7) Remove the three screws and two plates holding the dispenser actuator in place, being careful not to drop the screws or plates into the unit. If they do drop you can get them out of the unit using the needle nose pliers and/ or a bent pointy piece of metal (e.g., paper clip).
(8) Remove broken dispenser arm.
(9) Insert new dispenser arm.
(10) Replace all screws and panels.
(11) Turn refrigerator power back on.

Note: The new dispenser arm has reinforcing bars molded into the back that were not on the original model. The company is apparently aware of the problem of the weak dispenser arm and fixed it in the replacement part... so, you should not have to be doing this repair again.

It was very easy. I attached to the socket.

Test the light socket first with a bulb that you know is good. If the light still does not come on, unplug the refrigerator, remove the switch by inserting a very small, thin, flathead screwdriver alongside it and pull the switch out slowly with your other hand. There are two wires there. Remove them gently with some needle nose pliers. If you want to test to see if the switch is defective, take a insulated jumper wire, and attach it between the two wires. Plug the refrigerator back in and see if the light comes on. If the light does come on, replace with a new switch by re-attaching the wires and placing it back in the hole firmly.

Unpluged the item. Turned off the water source. Removed the card board cover. Dis-connected the water hoses. Unpluged the connetors. Matched up the colores and put it back together, very easy. Everythings was color coded.

Just pushed the button along side the filter and it popped out in my hand. I unpacked the new filter module and inserted it. It was necessary to run water through the dispenser for a couple of minutes to purge the air and clear the lines. The modular filter assembly is more expenseve than some but the ease of replacement makes the cost a good value.

Removed (unsnapped) plastic cover from back of refrigerator ( inside freezer compartment), determined that the fan was not turning, removed 4 screws from the aluminum back plate in freezer and tilted it down. Removed 2 screws with a nut driver, this allowed the fan to be removed, unpluged fan motor from the bace of the freezer and removed fan. Installed new motor and spent $38.00 to repair the refrigerator that would have cost me severial hundred dollars to replace. Thanks for the help

First I unplugged fridge. I then removed cover that keeps fan protected. I then removed 2 screws that hold the evaporator motor in place. I then removed 3 wires running to motor. Very easy to remove, just pulled connections apart. I then replace the old motor with new.

The Sears repairman wanted to charge me $359 to repair. I did repair for under $40! Amazing what you can save if you have the time and knowlege to do it yourself.