FGF337ECC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Remove bottom plates and deflector from oven, remove old igniter. Remove bottom drawer and panel to expose wiring. Cut wires, used supplied wire nuts to splice. The time consuming part of this job was having to clean all the parts before reassembly, and having to extract screws that were rusted into place due to heat and spillage. One of the igniter screws was stripped, and was very difficult to remove. The first part in your "probably cause" list was the right one! Thanks for the good service, and a useful website!

There were only 2 screws that held the door handle & cap in place, removed screws & handle to get cap pieces off. Ordered new cap, - lost screws - cap delivered - no screws had to order screws, damn! They're expensive too !! Got screws, installed handle & cap, now wife is happy again!

Was easy...I pulled oven out from the wall so I could get to the back.i used a nut driver to remove small silver cover.matched up wires to the never module and re installed.pluged oven back in and burners lit perfectly

Open oven door and remove metal splash plate on bottom of oven by removing two screws in back.
Remove heat distribution plate (metal) by unscrewing a single nut with pliers.
Now the ignitor is visible. Unscrew old ignitor by backing off two screws.
Detach the wires and reattach to new ignitor. (a cover plate may have to unbolt from the left back corner to get at one of the wiring connections.)
Reattach new ignitor and then flame distribution plate.
Put on splash cover and tighten back screws.
Test oven, it should light within 1 minute.
All is done.

I followed the instructions given pretty much, however none of them mentioned one important point.To remove the cover plate, do NOT try to pry it away from the unit. It will crack. Fortunately I caught it in time.I then started in another corner by inserting a razor knife between the face plate and unit and sliding it around all four sides. There was enough goo left on the plate to enable me to affix it to the new unit.

After looking over the installation instructions I was confident that I could perform this on my own, However, changing the burner orifices was a bit tricky. Getting the original ones out worked well, they stayed in the nut driver when it was lifted. One of the new ones fell out when inserting it. Thankfully it fell all the way down and I could retrieve it. A small piece of tape was needed to keep it in the driver. The rest of the install went per instructions.

Oven would not light upon setting for oven heat-up. Igniter would glow, but no gas flow. Gas Valve safety not sensing enough current draw from igniter to open gas valve. Original igniter measured 175 Ohms on Volt-Ohmmeter. New Igniter measured 74 Ohms before installation and use. Installed and spliced into existing wires using good quality wire nuts and tucked wiring into wire areas ensuring it was away from burner flue. Oven lit on first start-up! Problem fixed! Easiest to get to by removing broiler drawer, pressing catch tangs in from outside rails using a small screwdriver. 1 screw of 2 on igniter mount was stripped and difficult to remove, but working with pliers and nut driver was able to remove it with some difficulty. New Igniter hangs fine with 1 screw. .

order anew knob, put it on

1. Unplug the range to ensure there is no electricity running through the range. The repair can be done with the propane/gas line still connected.

2. If possible, remove the storage drawer for ease of access.

3. Remove the screw from the metal plate in the left corner of the oven. Detach the end of the igniter cord that you find plugged in there.

4. Remove the two screws that hold the igniter in place. The old igniter should fall to the bottom of the range.

5. Take a picture of the two other cord connections that run into the middle of the back wall. This will come in handy for reference when you install the new igniter.

6. Route the longer extension of the new igniter cord through the hole in the metal corner plate, attach the cord, and put the screw back in to secure the corner plate.

7. Affix the new igniter to the same spot the old one had been in, using the two screws from step 4.

8. Plug in the two shorter cord extensions, using the photo from step 5 if necessary.

9. Reattach the drawer if necessary and plug the range back in.

10. Set the clock, then set the oven to a desired temperature to begin heating. If the repair was successful, the igniter will light the gas piped into the range, and you will see a ring of flame.

New ones fit perfectly. Take a minute to bend the frame straight. Then and I used oversize screws on the replacement parts as the drop had stripped out the screw holes of the frame.

Partselect always have their install video with the parts they sell so it was easy. I know contractors must not be happy with people like partselect and YouTube with all the instructional videos they supply us with. Keep up the great work partselect.

Working on an old oven is difficult. Please expect the unexpected. The years of heating and cooling play havoc with oven parts. The screws holding the Flat Style Oven Ignitor become stripped. It took extra time to remove them. I had to go to the hardware store to buy replacement screws. Once I removed the old parts and had replacement screws the job was very easy.

Repair went well. I went on You Tube and was able to watch what to do. That was better than reading instructions.

On the front left burner would not ignite, after the installation of the new one, same problem, new one didn't fix.. I guess it's something with the electric igniter

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.