FES340VW0 Roper Range - Instructions

I simply removed the elements and replaced the drip bowls with new ones. Put the elements back in and my stove looks %1000 better!

Unplugged burners. . . . . Removed old bowls and replaced with new. . . . . . Plugged burners back in. However, I do want you to know that I could not believe the promptness of your service and the courteous customer service person that assisted me with my problem in selecting the correct drip bowls. You are definitely a unique company!!!!

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

First I turned off the circuit breaker on the house electricity panel. I removed the two screws that held the element in place in the oven. There were two wires connected to the element by spade plugs that were free floating in a fiberglass pad. I reconnected the spade plugs and put the element back in place and put back in the two screws. This procedure had I known what I was doing could have been done with the stove in place and would take no more than 5 to 10 minutes. Having no experience at this, I had pulled the stove out into the room and also removed the back cover which turned out to be unnecessary. I put everything back in place and held my breath and turned on the circuit breaker. Voila! It worked!

Replacing the bowls was simple, simply removing the burner units and pulling out the bowls and inserting the new ones.

The ONLY reason I am answering this questionaire is to complement Partselect.com for their incredibly fast shipping of my parts after I placed the order. I received my order within 2-3 days with normal shipping. I expected to wait at least a week or longer. Thanks again Partselect.com for being there when I needed you the most!

So often we feel inclined to contact repairmen for simple jobs. This was easy because I ordered the part by looking on the side of the range. It arrived in less than a week. I simply snap the bowls inside the correct sockets and now my stove looks new. I definitely would use this service again.

I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.

un-screwed 2 scrws and pulled out the old one and pulled off the 2 wires put the new one on the floor of the oven and hooked-up the 2 wires and pushed it in the back wall and replaced the 2 screws! done maybe 5 minutes

The Job didn’t take very long at all. I pulled the unit out and unplug it before I started the repair. I had to remove the back two access cover plates to get to the two wire leads that connect the broiler. I don’t believe there was enough wire to be able to do it all from the front side. Next I disconnected the two wires that connected it while remembering what color goes to the correct side (just incase this does matter). After removing the wires I moved on to remove the element with a Philips screwdriver. The new part already had the hangers on it so I reused the old screws and installed the new element. Next I reconnected the wires in the back and re-installed the back panels. I plugged it up and it works as good as new now. This was definitely a lot cheaper to fix this myself than hire a repairman.

Turned off the power! Unscrewed the element (2 screws) pullled the wires out. Put the new part right in. Easy!
Thank you-only a week before Thanksgiving, what a life saver! Also, order on Monday AM and was delivered by mid-day on Wednesday!

Using a nut driver, remove the back panel of the oven. Remove the electrical connections from the elements.

The Bake element has two Philips head screws at the back of the oven, the Broil element has one screw at the back of the oven and two on top of the oven near the front. Remove the screws.

The element then falls out very easily. The new element has to be pushed gently through the insulation on the back of the oven, but this was not a problem.

One issue: make sure that the Broil element is "right side up." The screw on the back of the unit is below the electrical connections.

Replace the screws, reconnect the electrical connections, and test the oven. If everything works, replace the back panel.

Total time from turning the first screw to the last was roughly 30 minutes.

Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.

The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were located under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.

My bottom oven didn't work, and I had called a service to come out and fix it. It was a $60 charge just to come out. My friend owns an apartment complex, and she told me it was two screws and a pull to remove the element and replace. I took the element out, ordered it for $38, had it the next day and repaired my oven in a matter of minutes. It was so easy and inexepensive. I feel like I can do anything!

The hardest part was the two screws (they were baked on I guess). We turned off the breaker, put paper towels in the oven carefully sprayed wd40 on the screw. Waited about 5 minutes unscrewed the two screws, gently pulled out the plate. When you pull the two wires out there are two contacts. Look at the direction their on. Slide them off put in the new unit to the contacts, gently slide back in and put the two screws back. It was really that easy and I had no idea what I was doing. No need to pull oven out can all be done for the front side.