FEC6X8XASA Frigidaire Cooktop - Instructions

First we removed two screws under the rim of the range top to open the lid. Lifted the lid and removed the screws from the bracket that holds the elements, Be careful with the clips that hold the element in, if you break them or bend them there aren't any more! Also note which holes they were in, they are marked according to the different sizes of elements. Disconnected the wires, needed needlenose pliers to grip them...connected new element, popped it back in place, replaced bracket, closed top ...Easy peasy!!!

Most of the job is simple fastener mechanics.
Use a nut driver or Phillips screwdriver. Remove rear panel.

Pull out control knob. If it is stuck, wrap a small rag around the back of it and pull the rag steadily.

Carefully match marked terminals on the replacement switch with those on original. Switch terminals may not be in the same location. Replace wires one for one, one at a time.

Carefully select the correct knob filler for the switch post. Several are supplied. Proceed with logic and measure the shaft length and the filler length and type to match.

First of all I removed the top panel then removed the switch. I then took pictures of the switch & drew a sketch with all the info. Then I went to your web site, matched up the switch & ordered.
When the switch arrived I went thru the above replacing the bad switch.

First I unplugged the stove, and removed the upper-back panel. Then I pulled off the control knob. Then I removed the two screws holding the switch to the stove. Then one-by-one I removed the wires from the old switch and connected them to the corresponding tabs on the new switch. Then, using the knob adapter supplied with the new switch, I figured out how much of the knob shaft I had to remove from the new switch to position the knob the correct distance from the face of the stove. Then I tested the switch with a voltmeter as instructed, and then I hooked up the last wire.
Partselect.com is an awsome website!!! I was able to review comments form other do-it-yourselfers that had similar problems. Then I looked up the Partselect schematic drawings of my stove and was easily able to find and order the part I needed. The part arrived at my house within a couple of days and I had the stove fixed in no time.

Turn off the electricity
Remove knob
Unscrew old switch
Lift stovetop & prop
Remove wires from switch
Remove switch
Plug wires onto new switch
Put new switch in place
Shut stovetop
Screw new switch in place
Trim knob post
Put adapter on post
Put knob back on
Turn electricity back on
Cook dinner :)

Unplug range, remove top back panel. Remove knob. Replacement part is different, but if you look closely, each metal tab has a number stamped on the plastic housing directly beneth it. Remove old switch (2 screws)and remove and replace wires one at a time. You will need to cut the "one size fits all" metal shaft that the knob attaches to. We had to remove most of it, leaving only 2 "segments". File rough edges and apply vaseline so that the plastic sleeve will slip right on. We used the shorter sleeve (only 2 that are supplied will fit the knob). Replace unit and screw in. Replace knob.

Pulled out the range, unplugged it and removed the upper back panel. The switches were held in place with two screws. Removed the old switches, detached the wires and plugged them into the new switches. Mounted the new switches, replaced the back panel, plugged the range back in and pushed it back into position. Appliance repair company wanted $370. I did it in 45 min. for less than $100.

removed the old burner and put the new one in it's place.

My husband followed the video instructions and it was easy to fix.

Didn't get repaired because I could not get the right parts to fix it. You would send me a part for the oven. The oven and burner parts are not the same

First unplug the electricity from the stove. Replacement terminals on back of switch are set different than the originals. So, I took notes (purple wire =P, Black wire=L1, two yellow wires = H1 & H2, and orange wire=L2). Your stove might be different in the color coding. Just take notes. First I unscrewed the screws on the top back plate of the stove. Removed the back plate. Took notes on where the wires went. Removed the wires going to the five terminals. Unscrewed the two screws on front panel of the stove holding the old switch in place. Removed the old switch. Put in the new switch through the back of stove. Determined the length of the control shaft. Take the switch back out. With two pliers on the control shaft, holding the pliers closer to the switch firmly, use the second pliers just past the predetermined breaking point. With the second pliers snap off the control shaft. Be careful not to snap off two much. Place the switch in the proper place and mount to the stove. You may need some parts in the assembly parts package for this. I did not. Inside of the parts package is a set of plastic parts. I selected the part I needed to insert into the control knob for a bushing just to take up space. I placed that part inside of the control knob. I then placed it onto the control shaft. Plug back the wire going to the electric outlet. Instead of unplugging and plugging, you might want to switch off the circuit breaker and switch back on when the job is done. It works!

I previously replaced terminal blocks and elements so the infinite switch was the last stop before new purchase. I reviewed the online repair video. Unplugged the range and removed the three screws from the rear of the control panel. I Removed the knobs then removed two screws to release the front plate behind the knobs. I removed the two screws securing switch #1 and compaired to the new parts before removing wires. Wire locations were labled the same but in different sequence. I located the knob adapter for my knobs and set them asside. At first I thought the rod coming out of the new switch was too long and then figured out that the indentions allong the rod were to be broken off to the correct length. ( re-reading the included instructions was nearly useless - - not in plain language ) I used a pair of vice-grips clamped just below the length of rod I wanted to break off and it snapped off easily and cleanly for the most part. ( A word to the wise, this is some really soft metal at the breaks along the rod. I attempted a second break on one switch after mounting in the control panel and the thing broke off at the short end - - scary ) luckily I was still able to use it with my knobs and adapters. I relocated the switch wires to the new switch one at a time matching label to label ( L1, L2, H1, H2, P) then mounted the new switch into the control panel. I re-assembled the range and it is heating better than ever. Well worth the effort and minimal expense compared to a service call or replacement range.

Removed 2 screws located underneath the front lip of the range top. Lifted range top and supported. Removed the 2 screws at either end of the support bracket. This bracket holds the elements in position. Be careful not to let the elements fall out when removing. The elements are now free to replace. Swap out the old with the new and be sure to reconnect the wires to the correct terminals on the new element. I did 1 wire at a time so as to not make a mistake at reconnecting the wires. Then replace the support bracket with the 2 screws and lower the range top in place and put back the 2 screws that hold the range top in position. VOILA!! Success. It works. The wife is now happy again:)