FEC36S6ESA Frigidaire Cooktop - Instructions

no problem slightly different shape than original but labels for wires matched up mounting screws aligned perfectly works great

Don't be put off when you first get the new switch. It's not an exact duplicate to the one your replacing. You will notice that the new switch has 5 electrical connectors and you'll see 6 wires on the old one. start by removing the L1 wire(s) off the old switch, you will see that it actually has 2 wires connected to the same connector. Now connect to the L1 position on the new switch. Continuie with taking one wire at a time off the old switch and connect to the corresponding connector on the new switch (all the connectors are coded the same, ex. L1, P, etc....) Once complete the switch and burner worked perfectly

repair it

First you must disconnect power by throwing the circuit breaker off.You need to pull knobs from cook top. check underside to see if it is mounted to counter top, mine was not. Then raise the cook top and support bottom with 2x2's. Mine had three main screws in front, one on the sides and two in the back. The other thing you need to do is loosen the metal plates that have two screws on each plate. Three plates in front, two on each side and three in back. Once these are loosen, you can lift the stove top up to reveal the indicator lights. I found it was easier to support the top with a pan or something while working on it. Replace your indicator light and put everything back together.. It really wasn't to bad.

took out 2 screws and disconnected wires .

1. I cut off the circuit breaker for the stovetop and removed items on the shelf directly under the cooktop
2. I looked under the cooktop and unscrewed the two screws holding the panel under the switch controls and removed the panel.
3. I pulled the knob up off of the bad cooktop control switch.
4 I unscrewed the two screws holding the bad cooktop switch control.
5. I looked under the cooktop and pulled the bad cooktop control switch down so I could remove the wires connected to it.
6. I got the new switch control and put the wires from the old control onto the new control, one-at-a-time, to the same labelled connection on the new control, which was a somewhat different arrangement.
7. I worked the new control up through the wires and put the knob shaft up through the hole in the cooktop.
8. Back on top, I installed the two screws I had removed from the old switch control to hold the new control to the stovetop.
9. I reinstalled the control knob onto the control.
10. I turned back on the circuit breaker for the stovetop and checked out the operation of the new switch control. It worked fine.
11. I turned the circuit breaker back off and reinstalled the panel cover under the switch controls, with the two screws I had removed earlier.
12. I turned back on the circuit breaker for the stovetop.
13 I put the items back onto the shelf directly under the stovetop.
14. Job done!

Followed the procedure used in replacing the previous switches. The part came without a bushing needed to adjust the height of the knob sticking above the surface of controls. Fortunately, I could use the bushing from the previous part. I suggest a bushing should be included with this part.

Open range door remove 2 screws on bottom of stove top remove top

Remove the 3 screw on the bottom cover, and 2 screw holding the switch and then switch your wires out.

removed knob from bag and stuck it on the shaft. took approx. 15 seconds. It took 4 months to get the part. Total cost with tax and shipping was $60.35.

Shut power off to appliance. Replaced burner switch. Removed three screws in access panel to get to switch. Removed two screws that held switch in place. Removed wires from old switch and attached to new switch. Replaced switch screws and then replaced access panel screws. Easy fix. Saved an $85.00 service call fee.

Turned off electric at the main box. Removed glass top. Used a razor knife to pry the connections loose so that the new connections could be slid in. Problem was that the element ordered looked entirely different then the original one. Even the hookup was different. But once the connections were made, the ceramic top placed on top, and the electric restored everything seemed okay. The warmer works and when it heats up the warning light turns on. When the warmer cools the warning light goes off as it should.

After removing pots / pans in cabinet below cook top and turning off the power, I was able to remove the panel held by 2 screws. Pulling the old light out was just a little difficult as it came in pieces. New one popped right in, hooked up terminals, replaced the panel and that was it !!

I ordered the 8" burner switch and two of the screws! I flipped the surface top up side down and removed 2 screws that held the cover over all the switches. I flipped it right side up to remove the 2 screws in the bad switch, flipped it over again to switch the wires from bad switch to new one, being careful to keep the letters and numbers matched. Replaced the 2 screws on top side and replaced the cover on the bottom and went back to cooking! Very easy!

hinged burner up to the rear. removed hex nut to unmount old switch. 5 wires pushed onto new switch same orientation.mounted switch with 2 very short screws no problem very easy. turned breakers on checked operation a- ok.