F8558W0 Roper Range - Instructions

First I removed the oven racks. Then I loosened the two screws in the back of the oven floor and figured out how to remove it. Then I loosened the two screws at the front of the diverter and, with some pushing and pulling and twisting, was able to get that to come out, too. Then I tried lighting the oven and noticed that the igniter was not glowing. When I saw that the upper (broiler) burner was working fine, I hoped that the problem was the lower igniter itself. I checked the wires and they seemed fine. I saw that two bolts held the igniter onto its bracket, so with a socket wrench (which size I got right on the first guess!) I removed those bolts and the igniter came loose. I found the connecter for the wires when I removed the drawer under the oven and was able to pull it apart easily. The igniter came out completely. There was nothing unusual about it, but I decided to take a chance and order a new one, hoping that replacing it would solve the problem. I put the rest of the oven together and waited. About three days later the part arrived (it was sent on a holiday; FedEx is soooo much better than USPS). I retraced the steps of taking the oven apart, put the two bolts into the new igniter to attach it to the bracket, and went back underneath behind the drawer to connect the wires. Then came the moment of truth: I tried turing on the oven. I held the button down to keep the light off, and after a few seconds I saw it: IT GLOWED!! It worked!! After yelling a satisfying "YEAH!!," I turned it off, put back the drawer, the diverter (more pulling and pushing and twisting), and the oven floor. Now it's all working perfectly and it took a very short time to fix. And a little luck that the problem was with such a simple part.

I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.

Removed racks and floor in oven, exposing ignitor assembly. Disconnected 2 wires at electrical connector plug. Removed 2 screws holding ignitor in place, removed bad ignitor, installed new ignitor in reverse order. Tested for ignition, all worked fine.

removed broiler pan
removed oven bottom plate
removed burner cover
unplug and remove igniter
reinstall igniter
clean and reassemble

First I Pulled the oven away from the wall and turned off the gas and unplugged the oven. I then removed the bottom drawer and the oven door to get easy access to the ignitor location. I then removed the oven racks and the 2 shields which cover the ignitor with a screw driver. I then removed & unplugged the ignitor and 2 screws holding the ignitor in place. This all took about 15 minutes. I then reversed the process and installed and assembled the oven. It only took about 25 min in total time and low and behold the oven worked again. Amazing the technology stuff. My wife things I am a genius...again. Not!!!

The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were located under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.

Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.

replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).

1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.

removed old Plug-in block by removing 1 screw and cutting 2 wires. (Screw was so tight and rusty that I had to use vise grips to remove it). Installed new Plug-in block with wire nuts and heat shrink wraps. YOU just have to make sure the wires are seated in the block properly. This job was much easier than I anticipated. The burner works great now!

I read some of question & answer to the problem I was having with the oven. When I saw do-it-yourself that all I need to know. Repair man quote me for 100.00 dollar he will do it plus part. So I save 100.00 dollar and done it myself. Thank to partselect for fast and quick delivery service. It was only 2 screws holding the element and the connector was a just plug it into the other plug very easy to do. I will always come back partselect for answer and help and buy the part from them. YOU ROCK PARTSELECT

Removed bottom pan from oven, removed gas flame deflector to expose ignitor and burner. Saw that ignitor was not working. Removed two mounting screws, pulled ignitor and wire until wire nuts were exposed and disconnected ignitor. Replaced with new ignitor, bracket and wire nuts. Remounted the new ignitor, and tested burner. Worked ok. Reinstalled deflector and pan, back in business.

Removed 2 screws, cut the wires, pulled the part out that the element plugs into. Replaced the old part with the new one and put the screws back in to hold it, reconnected the wires and plugged in the element. Turned stove on and Valaaaa! It was fixed in 10 minutes! Thanks for the great repair parts!

I cut the power to the circuit. Removed the burner and then unscrewed the old aluminum plate attached to the range top cover. Opened the topcover to access the wires. I cut the two wires being sure that I left enough length. I then slipped the two new wires with the brass contacts into the new black plastic holder until it locked. Reattached the new metal plate to the range cover, fed the wires through and snapped the new plastic holder into the aluminum plate. Secured wire ends with the ceramic wire nuts. Total time about 30 minutes.

took 2 screws out of bottom plate in the oven and lifted it out. removed 2 screw on the flame deflector and took it out. Took 2 screws out of old ignitor and unplugged it. Installed new ignitor tested oven put it back together. took about 30 min. screw driver only