F44N21CEW4 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.

Pulled plug.

Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be removed.

Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.

Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.

Removed old badly corroded thermostat.

I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.

Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.

Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.

Plugged back in and everying is working great!

1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer.
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including the brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!

After unsuccessfully trying to change the blown light bulb I discovered that the plastic light socket had gotten so hot that it melted and permanently fused with the blown bulb. After my new socket arrived in the mail I just popped the temp control assembly out with a screw driver and removed the old socket and placed the new one in. Whole operation to 5 minutes.

My freezer was frozen but my refrigerated side was not cooling, the temp was actually around 60-degrees. After inspecting i noticed no air was flowing through the vent from freezer side to fridge side. I removed everything from freezer and took the back wall panel off inside freezer section and immedietely noticed alot of ice on coils etc. After researching i found the defrost timer was not working and thus allowing frost and ice to build up on coils and block air flow. My defrost timer was located on the front bottom left behind kick panel, using a phillips screwdriver i removed 2 screws and then disconnected wire harness to the defrost timer. Then i inserted new defrost timer and connected wire harness and then put the 2 screws back in. My fridge is now working great and the ice build-up is gone and i am getting good air flow .. temps on fridge side are now between 32-34degrees. This was an easy project and saved me alot of money doing myself

I pulled off the old door gasket which came off really easy. I was hoping the new one would go on as easy as just popping it in place but it didnt work. I had to remove the inside door panel. The gasket wouldnt lay entirely flat in the inside groove so I used a bead of RTV around the entire circumference which helped to hold it in place while reattaching the panel back onto the door. The screws fit on the under side of the magnetic portion of the gasket. In order to access the screw holes the gasket has to be lifted which sometimes causes the gasket to pull from the lip on the back side of the panel making the RTV get everywhere. After every screw was in place and lightly tightened the panel had to be adjusted to allow for the proper closing of the door. This was the worst part, fortunatly the screws left a slight indentation of where they were before I removed them so it gave me a nice reference.
The hinge part of the new gasket requires a lubricant so it wont bind up when the door is closed. I didnt know about this until my order arrived and a part number was recommended for the type of lube. I just used Vasolene and it works fine.
The pin bearing was really easy. Just unload the contents from the door, mine was the freezer door. I popped off the cap covering the screws and removed the screws while holding the door so it wouldnt drop on the floor. Once off I used a flat head screwdriver to pry out the old one and a light tap of a hammer to replace it with the new. I put it all together the way it came off.
Now my fridge runs much less and the freezer door doesnt sag.

verifed temp cntrol by putting element in ice bath removed box and replaced both time and control

i removed the 4 screws holding cover. removed two screws holding timer. unplugged timer. plugged in new one. reassembled.

The fan motor all but caught the inside of the freezer on fire . Had to remove then clean, and I mean clean the walls of the freezer . Then had to pry out the old fan without breaking anything . Replacement of new fan was quick and easy because all the parts that I needed were in the bag

First, unplug the refrigerator since you're working with live wires.

Remove the 4 Philips sheet metal screws holding the plastic housing that holds the temperature control to the top of the refrigerator compartment. Pull the housing down then out since there is a tube on the housing where the water flows out the back of the refrigerator during the defrost cycle.

Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the defrost timer on the plastic housing. Pull the connectors off the old timer and attach them in exactly the same positions on the new defrost timer.

Attach the new defrost timer to the plastic housing with the 2 screws.

Reinstall the plastic housing, making sure the water tube is inserted into the back of the refrigerator wall.

Plug the refrigerator back in and you're done.

1) The meat drawer and rails were damaged when my 7-year old son closed the refrigerator door while the meat pan was still extended.
2) I ordered the parts on-line using your easy to follow part search.
3) The items arrived 3 days later.
4) I used a phillips screw driver to remove the old rails & I attached the new rails (approximately 10 minutes).
5) I slid the front cover off of the damaged meat pan and slid it on to the new meat pan (approximately 3 minutes).
6) I slid the new meat pan onto the new rails.
7) I demonstrated to my son the importance of closing the meat pan prior to shutting the refrigerator door.

I ordered a defrost timer and defrost thermostat from partselect.com. Parts arrived in 2 days (earlier than expected). Unplugged appliance, removed bottom cover, unscrewed 2 screws holding timer in place, unplugged timer and replaced with new part. Fastened back into place. Next removed back cover of freezer (5 screws using nut driver). Disconnected old thermostat and removed. Wires already had connectors installed. cut off the connectors with some wire left on and reconnected them to the new thermostat with the included blue wire crimps. Tried to use the shrink tube to insulate but couldn't get it snug enough. Just used electrical tape instead. Reinstalled thermostat. Reassembled cover. Plugged in and fridge and freezer are working fine again. Thanks partselect.com.

Used exploded parts view to locate part. Removed old part and replaced with new defrost timer. Piece of cake.

There are 3 parts that actually control cooling cycle: Temperature Thermostat, Defrost Timer and sensor/relay on the back side of the appliance. If fridge cycles up after you turn small knob on defrost time (you'll hear click, problem lies between first two components.
Replacing them is really easy. Make sure you handle thermostat wire carefully. Check for connectors holding firm.
Use schematic diagrams you may find at this site.

Good luck.

Bought a new
capacitor.

The Roper part was no longer available and a substitute was not recommended. But because of the excellant descriptions and photos on Part Select I was able to find a Fridgedaire part that looked exactly like the one I needed to replace. I it fit perfectly... I am impressed and have bookmarked your site for later purchases.
The thermostat is located at the top of the refridgerator compartmennt under the freezer. Remove light bulb to access the screw at the back of the thermostat/defrost timer housing. Remove screw and slide the assembly to the back to release the 2 tabs holding the front. Remove the temperature control knob on the thermostat, remove the 3 wires connected to the thermostat noting where which wire goes for re-assembly. Using a philips #2 screwdriver, remove the 2 screws under the temperature control knob and remove the thermostat. Do not lose the screws, the new thermostat does not have mounting hardware. Piece of cake, Ice cream cake if you get the freezer working again.