EWMGD70JTS0 Electrolux Dryer - Instructions

Pried the lid up and flipped it back then disconnected the front panel wiring harness and then popped the front panel loose at the top and dropped it down. Disconnected the ignition coils, removed the coil retainer bracket and replaced the coils. Reassembled it in reverse order, performed functional test. Success!

Flame Sensor didn't fix it but, it was easy to replace. Unplug electric. Lift up the top and remove wires from switch and light switch. Remove screws that hold on the front and remove front panel by lifting up and out. Sensor is on the left side of the burner, held on with just one screw. EASY!

Took the coils off and put the new one on thats all

i simply took the old one out and replaced it with the new one. it fit perfectly.

Everything I needed to know was already on your website. Prying off the top of the dryer (with a big screwdriver under the front of the top) was the hardest thing, since I was afraid I would break something. Only then can the front be removed (taking out just 2 phillips screws). The rest is easy.

Never knew I was handy, but I did it! I was reluctant to spend a couple $100 on a repair visit, so found this site and bought the coils I needed for only $26+tax. It's pretty easy. I just lifted up the top of the dryer with a screw driver, should snap open. Then unscrewed the front panel with two screws from the inside. Then located the old coils on the bottom left. The bracket that holds them is a little difficult to remove as you need to have a small philips screw driver to get the back one. But once I got that off, just unplugged the old ones and put the bracket back, then the panels and it WORKED. The only problem I have is that I didn't take the door switch off properly and now the dryer doesn't stop spinning if I open the door and want to check the clothes. So I may have to get someone in eventually.

pushed screwdriver into the two clips between the top and front to release the connection. took off front. at the bottom front left side, took out screws to access parts that needed to be replaced. put everything back together. dryer works like new. easy.

When I direct the dryer exhaust into the room during the winter there is an external lint filter in the ducting. For some reason,enough lint got by the dryers filter and over a few cycles clogged the exhaust. I correctly assumed that the dryer overheated and some thermal limiter had opened up. The manual had exploded views and I located the limiter. Getting to it was another issue. The manual gave nbo instructions on getting to the limiter, but I had installed a propane conversion kit when I first got the dryer. It was necessary to remove the top, control panel, and front panel/door assembly. Disconnecting the gas line,some cable connectors, and a few screws allowed the removale of the burner assembly, then removal of the metal tube that surrounded the burner assembly and held a number of sensors, including the thermal limit, which, as expected, showed an open circuit. The replacement part was ordered and checked out as a closed circuit, which it should. Reassembly was the reverse. A little difficult to work in the cramped lower corner of the dryer. I'm 82 years old now but machines cannot beat me!!

Part Select got me the right parts in the agreed time--good job. Shut off the power or unplug the dryer which ever is easiest. The toughest part of doing this job was figuring out how the lid came off the dryer, if you have a jack knife or a putty knife you push it in between the top of the dryer and the body about an inch below the dryer top and about six inch from both sides of the dryer front you will hit a latch that releases the top--slip a screw driver into the opening and do the other side. The top can be removed or you can hold it open with a stick. There are two screws that you need to locate they are on the inside of the dryer front about 9" from the top one on each side they are all that hold the front on the body so remove them but carefully not to drop them inside the dryer. On my dryer there were two screw inside the dryer door that held the filter body onto the front that had to be removed too. Then push the screw driver between the front and the body of the dryer like the top and it will pop open. There are some wires going to the front from the body they can be unplug just follow the wires to the connection point. On mine, I squeezed the sides of the connector and the wires pulled apart. Now you can move the front aside. At the lower right in the body you find the valve and heater burner. On top of the valve there are two sets of wires coming off the valve. Disconnect the wires--one set is for a three wire connection the other for two wire connection. Your parts have a two wire coil and a three wire coil. The coils are freed by unscrewing the metal cover that holds them down remove the two screws and that cover then remove the old coil off the valve then replace the new coil with the part that is the same. Three pin coil with three pin coil positioning in the same way as the old coil, then do the other one. Reattached the metal cover with the screws and put it all back together in reverse order. The dryer chamber--the inside of the dryer rests on the front so when you put them together you may have to lift the chamber up to met the face a little (1/4"). Good luck.

This repair took about fifteen minutes. I popped the top of the dryer using a flat-blade screwdriver, leaned it back against the back wall, unscrewed two screws holding the front panel, removed the five electrical spade contacts after marking which went where, swung out the panel and lifted it off. After that, it was a simple job to unscrew the plate holding the solenoids in, at the bottom left of the unit. I replaced the solenoids, closed everything up and now the dryer is working better than it has in the last three years, or so. If your dryer is heating sporadically, the odds are 85%, or more, that a solenoid swap-out will correct the problem.

Ordered part received next day fast shipping was great part in and working thanks

Your website was very helpful in narrowing down and diaganosing the problem. A continuity tester verified an open solenoid. Ordered Sunday evening, parts arrived Tuesday. Ignition coils drop in place with a holddown bracket and one screw. Wiring harness is reattached. Front of dryer is put in place followed by the top. Plugged in the dryer (it is just commom sense to have the power off). Started dryer, of course it ran WITH heat. The end of the story is HAPPY WIFE, HAPPY LIFE. Happy to do business with you. Tom , MI

Fast and easy. Started by pulling out refrigerator and unplugging it. Water valve for ice maker was already turned off due to leaking. Disconnected old valve, detached old valve, reattached new valve and reconnected water lines. Bled the lines and turned back on. Make sure temp in freezer stays at recommended temps for ice making.

Remove 2 screws at the upper rear attached to the top panel. Slide panel rear back and remove. Remove 2 screws attached to the front control panel. Lift panel upward. Remove 4 screws attached to the front panel (2 at the top, under the control panel, two at the very bottom). Lift front panel up and off, and unplug connector to door switch. Remove some more screws on the internal front panel edges, and the front to back brace holding up the control board. Lift panel up and out, and remove the drum, too. Thermal limiter located toward the rear, attached to the heating vent tube. Disconnect and replace. Re-assemble in reverse order.

Turn off water, un-plug refrigerator, dis-connect water, un-screw bracket, remove valve and replace same way...Very easy