EVL201NXRQ05 Whirlpool Freezer - Instructions

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

When we discovered that the freezer was not holding temperature we quickly moved everything we could to the freezer compartment of our refrigerator. I then removed the shelves and basket from the freezer.
I used a Philips screwdriver and removed the 4 screws from the panel at the rear of the freezer. I discovered that 1 of the 4 fan blades had broken off and was laying in the bottom of the freezer. I plugged the freezer in and found that the motor was not running. I removed the bracket which holds the fan and motor with a socket wrench.

When I received the fan and new motor I installed both by reversing the process.

The only issue I had to deal with was that the auto-defrost wire had to be carefully removed from the old motor plug and inserted in the new plug. Once that was accomplished everything was simple.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

The defrost circuit is relatively simple. Just three components and interconnecting wiring. Ensure the timer works first, then check the heater element for continuity. Lastly i jumpered around the temp switch to eliminate interconnecting wiring. You can test the switch by cooling it to see if it opens, but some do not open like the one in this particular Whirlpool until they are well below freezing so you’ll need to take that into account in your troubleshooting. Replacing the switch itself is very simple, it’s two wires and it just clips to the heat exchanger in the back of the freezer behind a metal cover.

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

My brother repaired it but he said it was easy. Freezer works great again. Thanks guys

You should know that the freezer leaked for months before it warmed up. It's not connected to water (no ice maker in it) so I figured it was ice build-up that was melting and causing the leak.

When it warmed up I called a repairman who said the start relay was bad and estimated $500 to replace it. I disputed this because the compressor was running. I asked him if perhaps the freon was low, he said if it was, we should dispose of the freezer.

I even asked him to take $300 to replace that relay, but he refused so I paid him his service fee and sent him on his way. Turns out even $300 would've been a ripoff.

I watched several videos on diagnosing warm freezers. I tried contacting many online parts stores but PartsSelect.com was the only one that answered and had kind and patient techs willing to explain things to me.

I tested the evaporator fan motor, which turned out to be bad. The tech recommended other parts that might also be bad so I put them all into the shopping cart, including the overload (by accident, not sure how I got that one as I did not need the overload for this repair). I did buy the relay in case the unethical repair guy was right about the relay being bad.

The parts arrived quickly and the diagrams/video supplied by this site were very helpful. I used my cell phone to take photos of everything before I started so I could put all wires back in their proper places, etc.

EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR:

Very easy to replace. I removed the cover panel as instructed, and removed the screws holding the motor with my nutdriver. The blades slid off the motor nice and easy--I did not have to fiddle with the clip at all, just slid them off and on.

There is a third hole in the white bracket that worried me because I didn't see a corresponding third hole in the photo online of that part. But when it arrived, it did have the hole so I was able to plug it in just fine.

I removed the middle wire from the old part's white bracket NOT by pulling on it. I removed it by gently pushing an allen wrench into the hole and then the wire came out easily so it could be plugged into the new part.

Very easy overall to replace the Evaporator Fan Motor.

BI-METAL DEFROST THERMOSTAT:

Another very easy to replace part! Find the old part, unplug it and plug in the new part! Once the panel is removed to access the fan, you can hold up the new part and use it to find the old one. In this model it was easy to find.

DEFROST TIMER:

This was on the back of my freezer, in the cavity that holds the compressor. Once I located it, it was a simple thing to replace it. I used the nut driver to unscrew the screws and unplugged it, plugged in the new one, put the screws back... super simple.

START RELAY:

This was the scariest for me but turned out to be simple. I had to lie on the ground to get close enough and position a bright light so I could see everything clearly. (I'm a 60-year-old gal with poor eyesight and creaky bones!) The cell phone came in handy here to take up close photos of the assembly.

Another difficult step: grabbing the relay to pull it out. It was difficult to gain purchase on it but I finally figured it out.

A third difficulty (only for me) was pulling off the terminals without damaging the wire. I followed the video closely here, grabbed the terminals and not the wire and worked at them to pull them off. They were on very tight, difficult but I did get them off.

Installing the new relay was easy. Attach the terminals (cell phone photo of original part helped me ensure I got the right wires to the right place) and plug it in (cell phone helped again so I could line up the pins before pushing).

The old part rattled just barely -- so perhaps it WAS on its way out, but certainly not worth a $500 repair the repairman wanted! And as you will see, it was not the only thing not working in our this freezer.

The freezer started right up -- compressor humming nicely -- but after 24 hours it was only 60 degrees. At that point I called PartsSelect.com and they spent a long time with me on the phone. We decided it might be leaking freon but they don't have parts or info on adding freon.

I researched "how to add freon to your freezer" and found a great video by Vegas Romaniac on youtube.



Turns out you need to make sure your gauge has a DVA-1 adapter; the link in the youtube video sends you to an old-style gauge, so if you buy that one you'll need to go to Walmart for a DVA-1 adapter ($3).

Another issue: the green gasket in that gauge prevented it from seating properly, it took me a very long time before it finally seated and pierced the can...

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks