EV170NXAN00 Whirlpool Freezer - Instructions

I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

Trouble shot the electrical circuit per the electrical schematic and zeroed in when I noted the Defrost Timer circuit was open. When I tapped on the bottom of the timer it began functioning normally (for a few days). Ordered a new Defrost Timer Kit and along with the installation instruction, I watched the on-line video. It was very helpful!!
After installation was complete, I plugged the Refrigerator into the electrical outlet and.......nothing happened! Hmmm!

Removed the Defrost Time Kit and inspected it for any damage and found none. Then I placed a flathead screwdriver to the manual advance knob and slightly rotate the gear mechanism. I heard a distance "click”. I believe the Timer was in the ‘defrost’ mode when received.

I reinstalled the timer, verified the wiring connections and this time plugged the Refrigerator into the electrical outlet and ….. it worked!!!

I unplugged the refrigerator, finished the installation per the instructions, plugged the unit in and monitored it for a few hours (just in case). That was a week ago and the Refrigerator is working like new.

The instructions were written in a manner which required re-reading a few times as they could be a bit vague. The video was what really helped and I appreciate PartSelect adding it to the instructions.

De-iced the refrigerator. Removed two screws from the thermostat panel on the upper refrigerator section. Tilted it down, removed two speed nuts holding the timer, unplugged the timer plug. Determined from the instruction sheet (easy to follow) what time delay function is used, based on wire colors, placed the jumper on the correct terminal on the new timer. Plugged it in, replaced the speed nuts and screws. The timer fit perfect, works just like it is supposed to, quick easy job.

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

1. Unplug refrigerator to remove power!
2. The timer is inside the control housing located at the top of the refrigerator compartment.
3. Remove two control knobs (the pull off).
4. Remove the front panel escutcheon. The panel is not held in place with screws, but can be gently pried off.
5. Remove two screws from the back that hold the housing in place.
6. Remove screws from the front that hold the housing in place.
7. Drop housing down (still attached by wires - do not detach). Timer is inside housing, located on right.
8. Follow the instructions provided to identify your particular wiring setup. You'll find the wiring diagram (on my model) at the bottom of the refrigerator, alongside the defrost catch pan, behind the airflow grille.
9. Remove connector from timer terminals (4).
10. Remove two screws/nuts that hold the timer in place.
11. Install replacement timer following included directions. Read and follow ALL instructions applicable to your particular model and wiring setup.
12. Reassemble by reversing the steps above.
13. Note: You may need to "jog" the replacement timer when you first plug the refrigerator back in, if the timer happens to be in a "defrost cycle" (the compressor won't start). This can be done by inserting a wide bladed screwdriver into the hole below the timer, aligning it with the timer shaft, and slightly turning the shaft CW. Don't force it, and don't turn it very far.

Remove lower door hinge only, and door pops out. Then lay door on floor and remove the screws fastening the inner freezer tray & gasket to the door; this is where the cordless drill w/nut driver attachment is handy as there are 30+ screws to remove and an open freezer with all your food gaining temperature. At this point drop the new gasket in the dryer on low heat for 5-10 mins to soften it, regardless of it's condition. Have someone clean the sealing area on the freezer and where you have removed the old gasket on the door while you fit the new gasket in. Renew all rusted screws and smear a little grease on hinge for future protection since the door is off. Remount door and check for leaks, the door should close and seal on it's own WITHOUT pushing. This is where I realised the importance of warming the gasket, I got lucky by passing a blow dryer along the leaking areas with the door closed.
Point: When buying a new freezer look for compression of the gasket which is an indicator of a warped door. My freezer is only 5yrs old and I shouldn't be changing the gasket so soon!

Just removed the old timer and attached the wires to the new one and replaced the old. That simple!

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

Disconnect power / Remove shelves / remove sheet metal panel in rear of freezer / disconnect fan wires / remove fan unit using nut driver. / reassemble.

Using a 3/8" wrench I took the top hinge off of the door. I had a friend around so I put him to work but the project could be done alone. We set the door on a countertop and began removing the old gasket with the nut driver on a cordless drill/screwgun. We eventually decided it was worth the extra effort to set the door on sawhorses in the garage (where the freezer is located).

I had stored the new gasket in the garage before installation and wished I had brought it inside to warm it up first. I remembered reading posts about using a hair dryer to soften the gasket but forgot about the post about putting the gasket in the clothes dryer for a few minutes. Stretching the new gasket around the door while it was cold was tricky in some spots but doable. One or two of the the corners of the new gasket began to pull apart but not enough to compromise the seal - although for the price of the gasket, I would have rather this not happened. I wish I would have used the clothes dryer first. Instead, we simply threw in a few screws in places and stretched the gasket around the corners. This was one time I was especially glad to have another person around.

After negotiating the corners and replacing all of the screws, we quickly placed the door back on the bottom hinge and put the top hinge back on. It was again nice to have a friend help square up the door before tightening the top hinge. We used a hair dryer to soften the gasket and a lot of hand work to mold the gasket and close the gap beyween the door and the freezer. Again, I think the clothes dryer would have saved time here as well. The gasket was quite compressed and needed a lot of work to help it "open up" and make a good seal.

Good luck on your own repair!

changed the starter connected to the compressor

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

I took the cover off the control settings and found the timer. Removed two screws and replaced the defective one with the new one. Had to pay attention to directions since the timer is used in different ways and to make sure the loose wire was installed correctly (not the same way as the original ground was connected).

Removed 2 control panel knobs and face plate that is snaped in place using a knife to prey it causing to snape lose.
Removed 4 cover screws that gave me acess to Defrost Timer. Remove two fastining screws on timer unit. Remove electrical color coded 4 prong connector plug. Have to make sure black jumper wire on the new timer kit is connected to the correct one of the 4 prongs as to instruction sheet for my model refrigerator. Reassemble in reverse order. Bingo! Fixed.