EI30BM55HSC Electrolux Microwave - Instructions

I first removed the top plate above the microwave door (3 screws), then I removed the plate containing the buttons and clock. The microwave has 3 relay switches and they are in a little holder. The holder was too difficult to remove so I just removed the bottom switch and replaced. The microwave started right up.

was told buy a repair person to check the door micro switches as it was a common problem. removed the top plastic air grill to get access to the screw that holds in place the control cover. After unplugging the unit, i took out the (2) screws that held in the switches and removed them (3). One switch was a bit melted so i tested it with a 12 volt battery and it was bad. Ordered a new one from Part select and got it fast . Works great .

After unplugging the unit remove the control face buy removing the screws. All three door switchs are on a bracket on the left. Remove the two screws holding the bracket in place and pull out. Disconnect the wires from the three switches and test each switch indivually to determine the bad one. I used a multimeter set on ohms.Replace the bad switch with the new one and replace all the wires. Reassemble the unit and you are good to go.

It is a undercabinet stovetop microwave. First had to take it down and unplug. Remove the top cover locate the door switch. Used neednose pliers to remove switch. Unplug two terminals.Plug new switch and use pliers to replace back @ same position.Plug in socket temporarily to see if it works.Afterwards if it works.Unplug and replace cover.Ready to be replaced back under cabinet.

Replaced Filters very easy to do

Your website indicate this maybe the rectifier , I order the part and replace it. Less than 10 minutes the microwave was fix. Thank you for diagnostic

Removed microwave cover trim,
removed the microwave#1philips and security screws , removed the cover. Removed the 3 #1 screws holding the racket in front of the light bulb. I pryed the plastic clip holding the light, removed the bulb put the new bulb in and reversed the order to reassemble

I ordered new "stainless" upper and lower handle end caps -the caps (brackets) are actually coated plastic, not steel. With age they became brittle and broke resulting in handle coming off unit.
Repair was pretty straight forward:
1. unclip door wiring harness
2. remove door
3. unscrew door back plate
4. remove spring loaded door latch
5. remove handle by unscrewing handle caps from the back side of the door.
5. remove screw attaching old handle cap(s) from handle and replace with new cap(s)
6. remount handle on door (reverse of step 5). Note that on my unit the handle mounting area on the door was torn away leaving a large hole. I used a large washer to span the hole in the door in order to remount the handle. New doors were not available on this model thus the jerry rig.
7. reassemble door back plate and latch
8. remount door and attach wiring harness

easy..just slipped it in the space part camesightlybent, but was okay..

Replaced rectifier to no avail still have the same problem. Original rectifier tested bad and was replaced with the new one.. I checked door switches, magnatron, and capacitor all test good. I am stumped please give me some more troubleshooting ideas Thanks

Used spatula to remove inner door plastic beauty-ring to get to the eight (?) screws that hold the door together. Removed enough of the eight screws to gain BETTER access to the screw needed to secure the lower door handel. Secured door handle then reassembled door.

This is an OTR microwave oven, needs to be removed to diagnose problem. I did not diagnose problem properly, I searched online for possible causes, read that (99%)percent of the time the interlock switch was bad and replacement should solve my problem. It was also stated to be an easy fix,15- 45 minutes depending on ability. I ordered the relay switch. Took the oven down then removed outer shell. With my multimeter I began to test, fuses(2), interlock switches(3)and transformer. 3 interlock switches were ok, fuses were fine, and had power to the transformer, meter could not read output of transformer because of high voltage, (2300v). I'm down to magnetron (about a hundred bucks) or the touch pad/ circuit board. I have a countertop micro that I'm putting in place of the OTR. As far as Partselect, my item was shipped and delivered on time, instructions for changing that part was quite accurate. Would order from here again, just do my homework first.

Removed unit from above stove removed outer housing, interior shield and tested the 4 door relays. One was not working. Replaced parts and re installed unit over stove.

I purchased one relay switch (there are three) took one out one by one and replced it with the new one and tested it each time until it worked. Super easy and saved me hundreds of dollars by doing this myself.

I managed to move the auger far enough to allow me to insert the cup-drive and then realign the auger with the new cup-drive. I also have had one to break very shortly after installing it. This is my second part to replace and this one went really smooth, since I understood that the initial parts installation instructions did not apply on my ice maker.