EI27BS26JW4 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

First I pulled the ice tray out so I could see the solenoid housing/ice tray support(1 unit). Below the ice tray there are 2 screws that hold the solenoid housing/ice tray support. After removing those the assembly lifts up so you can see the wiring harness to disconnect. I pulled it out and removed the 2 screws to open it up. There is 2 screws holding the solenoid in place and one ground wire. This was an easy fix and I know I saved a lot of money.

Simple three steps... 1) There's an front section to the ice-maker to take off. One Phillips screw is on the side, one screw is underneath near the inside of the refrigerator wall. Just unscrew and store. 2) There's a small plastic unit just inside the ice maker to take out. It's held in by a small nut that requires about a 4" extension to reach. (You may be able to unscrew the nut with small needle-nose pliers). Just unscrew and take out the unit - the unit functions just to keep the ice maker wiring in place. 3) The wiring looks a mess, but there's just one wiring connector to the ice maker assembly. Unsnap it. The ice maker is not screwed in, it just slides in -- reach in and pull the assembly straight out; when it stops, lower it a bit and it will come free. Reverse the instructions to install the new unit.

Unscrewed the water line cover. Removed the platic case around the water filter base. Everything went well until I tried to remove the two water hoses. After I finally figured out that I had to push in the release washer while pulling the hoses out, things went well. Unfortunately it took several hours of wasted time and several searches on the internet to finally figure this part out. From there on out it went smoothly. Old base came out with two screws. Reversed process for reinstall of new base. Water hoses just slipped back into place and locked themselves in. Just takes a little patience.

I checked the dampener, it worked. The compressor and fan worked. I knew because my freezer was still hovering around 10 degrees. Coils were clean. Thermistor was the only thing it could be. Took all my shelves out. Removed four screws. Took the back panel off. The thermistor sits tucked in on the side. I piped it out, in clipped it. Used my multimeter to test the numbers. Numbers were off just a bit. Ordered the part. Crossed my fingers.,took less then 5 minutes to put the part in. Plugged in the fridge. It was sitting at 33 degrees in about an hour and a half. I can’t believe I fixed it. I knew NOTHING about refrigerators. For how big my fridge is, it would have cost 3,000 and up to get a new one with the same cu ft size. Instead, it cost me $44. That includes shipping. Thank you Parts Select!! Made it so easy to pick the correct part for my model fridge!

Silly me. It couldn't possibly be the filter because it's worked for the last 9 months with no problems. Decided to replace the water filter base first. Repair was easy. I saw someone had trouble removing tubes from old base and I gave it a couple of tries to no avail so decided to cut the lines instead. Made it even easier. After repair, water continued to leak. So, replaced the filter itself and voila - leak fixed. Make sure you check the filter first. My mistake turned a $40 - 10 second repair into a $100 - 20 minute repair. Good Luck!

placed filter in sideways

Removed the plastic water tubes cover with a nut driver. Disconnected water hoses. Dropped control box assembly with nut driver. Removed old filter base with phillips screwdriver. Assembly opposite.

It's too easy to describe.

What's more important is that someone read this and see that you can save hundreds of dollars doing this repair yourself. I'm sure many handy people think that about everything they repair, but this repair is insanely easy and the $ savings ridiculous.
When I called the place I purchased the refrigerator from, they were more than happy to sell me the part with a 35% markup (your price was reasonable) and (when i asked) they told me that sending someone to my home to make the repair would cost about $400 ($200 per door) including the "home instal" fee.
I removed the old gaskets and put on the new ones (on both doors) in under 10 minutes. I confess that I did the job under the auspices of my very handy son but he'll agree with everything I just wrote. To the unhandy: go forth and replace your own gaskets.

To confirm my diagnosis I first replace the filter still no water flow.
Check water supply from the wall valve: ok
Remove the entire inlet valve assembly and sit it over a small bucket.
Disconnect the tubing from the bottom of the 1st selenide valve: this is the one leading to the filter.
Place cup under water dispenser and activate dispenser. No water discharge from inlet valve confirm valve is bad.
Install the new valve matching the colored tubing with the color on each inlet valve.
Re-connect the water supply place container under water dispenser and activate: There will be a large gush of air then water. Dispense aprox 1 gallon of water to confirm all the air is purged from the system. Your refrigerator is now back to dispensing water and making ice.
Good luck everyone - Neville

removed fan unit from frig and installed new motor and then replaced back in frig. No tools needed. need to unplug unit and take apart and put new motor in the unit and then plug back in.

First I obtained the manual to the refrigerator. I identified the screws to be removed. I turned off the water then unplugged the water lines. I then replaced the Water Filter Base and reassemble the parts. Within minutes of turning on the water, water and ice making had returned. I was a hero for saving the family $200 in parts and labor.

The part i recieved, from parts select was a larger in circumfrence (<1/4) than the original. However i was not aware of this until after i treid to repair it.

I removed the broken fan from the condenser. This was very sipmle.

When i pluged the refridgerator back in to the outlet the fan tried to start up but soon began to make aloud noise, due to there not being enough clerance.

Took drawers out by removing 2 screws on top of rail near front, then popped black plastic cover off in lower right inside cabinet...sensor just un plugged and new one plugged in easily...did not fix problem though...display set at 34 but bottom drawer reads about 40 at best and upper drawer reads around 55...dont think the 3 little fans inside on back wall have been running

Unscrew a few screws and remove some plastic covers to access the ice cube tray. Undue two wire connections and remove the tray. Put in the new unit in reverse order. I heard it may take awhile for the new ice maker to start doing anything. Mine didn't do anything for 6 hours, then made it's first batch. Making ice fine now ever since.

Used the following video link to replace thermostat:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JnBZuXpehw

Since problem was frost build up on coils behind the ice maker I figured the problem had to be the thermostat or the heater coil. All diagnostic tests on ice maker worked fine. Ordered both...50-50 chance. Turned out to be the thermostat, but replace both. Working good now.